sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
That makes sense. How long does it normally take to normalize??
Changing the spark plugs (4 Viewers)
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bloc
SILVER Star
I agree.
Here are my plugs from a 2015 LX570 with 150k miles on them, never changed before. Noticed some powdery rust on the threads of cylinder 1 and 5. They were noticeably tighter when trying to remove. I did purple power and wash the engine bay about 2 weeks prior to pulling these plugs. This may or may not have contributed.
When putting new Denso SK20HR11 I put a very very small amount of permatex anti-seize on the threads. I backed off the torque spec by a couple pounds.
When putting new Denso SK20HR11 I put a very very small amount of permatex anti-seize on the threads. I backed off the torque spec by a couple pounds.
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These were great instructions and yes, that passenger side firewall plug is a real b*tch.
Took me so long I’ve only had time to do the first 4 on passenger side.
Probably would pay someone if I did it again, but glad to save the 400 bucks.
2013 LX with 112K
Took me so long I’ve only had time to do the first 4 on passenger side.
Probably would pay someone if I did it again, but glad to save the 400 bucks.
2013 LX with 112K
I wish I had made notes of exactly how I did the firewall plug for future reference, but I did all 8 in a little over an hour and definitely didn’t unplug anything from the firewall or remove the air box. The plugs were likely original with 260k miles. Note the points are worn completely off of all the electrodes. Yikes!
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How did you get the wiring harness and plastic bracket off the metal holder? I'm having some trouble getting it off. (Pulling doesn't seem to work). Did you just remove the metal bracket itself?Release the wiring harness thingamajig that hold the wire bundle. This will help move the bundle out of the way.
I'm currently in the middle of replacing my spark plugs (7/8 there)
Honestly thought the driver side was harder than the passenger side, until I got to this one. DS had awkward spacing for my extensions so it took a LOT of finessing.
bloc
SILVER Star
Pull up on the small tab in the center of the harness locator pointing toward the bottom right of the image. It'll slide right off the metal bracket.How did you get the wiring harness and plastic bracket off the metal holder? I'm having some trouble getting it off. (Pulling doesn't seem to work). Did you just remove the metal bracket itself?
I'm currently in the middle of replacing my spark plugs (7/8 there)
Honestly thought the driver side was harder than the passenger side, until I got to this one. DS had awkward spacing for my extensions so it took a LOT of finessing.
Hmm this is interesting. It seems like I have a different plastic bracket (2017). It looks like the one in this video:
I'll give it a shot later.
That 12mm bracket bolt is on tight! I need a way to get my breaker bar in there.
I'll give it a shot later.
That 12mm bracket bolt is on tight! I need a way to get my breaker bar in there.
bloc
SILVER Star
I just went to look at mine. Yours has a tab like the above picture but it’s on the bottom so you’ll need to feel around for it and push down instead of pull up.
My notes on spark plug and coil change
Post in thread 'The Guzzler - 2009 LX570'
Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-guzzler-2009-lx570.1052021/post-14919811
Post in thread 'The Guzzler - 2009 LX570'
Builds - The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-guzzler-2009-lx570.1052021/post-14919811
Just did this on my 2017...
Passenger side Firewall Plug (#8), Unbolted the 2 bolts for the coolant pipes at the rear of the motor, 1 Bolt further up for the coolant pipes. Nothing else, I did not see a reason to move the main wiring loom or unplug it. Access is fine since you can shift the pipes up enough to get in there.
#2 required one sensor to be unhooked on the block and to release the wiring loom clip above it.
Drivers side #7 is a bit tricky but once you figure out the Tetris to get the Coil out it's pretty easy.
#2 required a Loom clip to be undone.
Total time 1.5 hours working slow..
Plugs looked fine, no oil on them, tips are what I would expect. These are the original plugs @108K miles.
Replaced with the same OEM plugs.
Passenger side Firewall Plug (#8), Unbolted the 2 bolts for the coolant pipes at the rear of the motor, 1 Bolt further up for the coolant pipes. Nothing else, I did not see a reason to move the main wiring loom or unplug it. Access is fine since you can shift the pipes up enough to get in there.
#2 required one sensor to be unhooked on the block and to release the wiring loom clip above it.
Drivers side #7 is a bit tricky but once you figure out the Tetris to get the Coil out it's pretty easy.
#2 required a Loom clip to be undone.
Total time 1.5 hours working slow..
Plugs looked fine, no oil on them, tips are what I would expect. These are the original plugs @108K miles.
Replaced with the same OEM plugs.
Pierce
SILVER Star
Excellent write up. Just did mine at 150k. They all looked fine and were still gapped to factory spec. After the change I gained .6 mpg; I’ll take what I can get.
I just changed mine out a couple weeks ago. I replaced them with the Iridium TT Denso's (IKH20TT) instead of the standard Iridium part SK20HR11. Not that big a deal.
It wasn't that hard at all. I bought this magnetic swivel spark plug swivel set (below) and it was breeze. You use the best length for the individual cylinder and use another required length 3/8" extension plugged into it if needed.
I just reversed the process and twisted in the plug with the magnetic swivel socket by hand until it bottomed out then used a 3/8" torque wrench to finish it off.
Was a breeze. In fact, the biggest hassle to me was unclipping the connectors from the coil....and the fact that I did it in the middle of the day in Florida Summer. Hotter than balls.
EDIT: A cordless impact to break the old spark plug free makes things easier. Do not use to install the new ones.,
https://a.co/d/cj7ejB9
It wasn't that hard at all. I bought this magnetic swivel spark plug swivel set (below) and it was breeze. You use the best length for the individual cylinder and use another required length 3/8" extension plugged into it if needed.
I just reversed the process and twisted in the plug with the magnetic swivel socket by hand until it bottomed out then used a 3/8" torque wrench to finish it off.
Was a breeze. In fact, the biggest hassle to me was unclipping the connectors from the coil....and the fact that I did it in the middle of the day in Florida Summer. Hotter than balls.
EDIT: A cordless impact to break the old spark plug free makes things easier. Do not use to install the new ones.,
https://a.co/d/cj7ejB9
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bloc
SILVER Star
IMO breaking plugs loose with an impact is also not a good idea as you lose the ability to feel whether anything is going wrong with the threads, even if that scenario is very unlikely.
That’ll always remain something I do by hand, despite being a huge fan of cordless impacts in general to make car work a lot more efficient.
That’ll always remain something I do by hand, despite being a huge fan of cordless impacts in general to make car work a lot more efficient.
I know what your saying but I only use it for the initial break. Doing it by hand won't offer any more feeling until you actually rotate the socket. That is the initial break anyway and the impact is no longer needed.
An adjustable torque setting impact is useful in this case.
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Why? Toyota V8s prefer OEM spec ONLY.
That plug wasn't even invented yet when they spec'd the original. Things get better and technology advances. It is a direct cross reference on the Denso website.
The twin tip technology doesn't obstruct the spark as much as the older design. It is a more efficient design. How much so? I couldn't tell you. What I can say is it is a more efficient design that is just as durable if not more so and more importantly, will it hurt the engine? No.
bloc
SILVER Star
Toyota was probably aware of that plug when they developed their new engines but they continue to use a plug much like what is stock in the 3UR.
But I guess they don’t know what they are doing.
But I guess they don’t know what they are doing.
Kinda like they are aware of better skid plates, suspension, tires, and brakes. I guess they don't.
bloc
SILVER Star
Those parts work very, very well for the vast majority of their customers.
The notion that they wouldn’t run a plug that objectively works better in a market with such huge pressures toward power/efficiency/lower emissions is.. ridiculous. It matters for every ICE customer they have, and would be low hanging fruit if it made a real difference.
If you want to run them fine, just don’t try to claim they are better unless you design combustion chambers for a living.
