Changing the spark plugs (1 Viewer)

[Adrenaline6]

Those parts work very, very well for the vast majority of their customers.

The notion that they wouldn’t run a plug that objectively works better in a market with such huge pressures toward power/efficiency/lower emissions is.. ridiculous. It matters for every ICE customer they have, and would be low hanging fruit if it made a real difference.

If you want to run them fine, just don’t try to claim they are better unless you design combustion chambers for a living.

It is actually listed as better on the Denso's website. You know, the guys who actually design these things for manufacturer's. Go argue with them.

You OEM or bust guys crack me up. Especially on a modification forum where you yourselves change things from OEM. Seriously...think about it. Nutso.

 

[04UZJ100]

It is actually listed as better on the Denso's website. You know, the guys who actually design these things for manufacturer's. Go argue with them.

You OEM or bust guys crack me up. Especially on a modification forum where you yourselves change things from OEM. Seriously...think about it. Nutso.

you’re missing the point bud.

multiple posts on here of folks who try and outsmart Toyota by putting in different plugs in the 3UR and 2UZ and note issues, poor performane etc,

 

[bloc]

It is actually listed as better on the Denso's website. You know, the guys who actually design these things for manufacturer's. Go argue with them.

You OEM or bust guys crack me up. Especially on a modification forum where you yourselves change things from OEM. Seriously...think about it. Nutso.

So denso didn’t tell Toyota they’d be better for their state of the art engines? Or maybe marketing claims mean more than billion dollar companies doing everything in their power to optimize their designs.

There are great places and reasons to deviate from OEM. The evidence we have (new engine designs from Toyota) suggests this isn’t one.

 

[Adrenaline6]

you’re missing the point bud.

multiple posts on here of folks who try and outsmart Toyota by putting in different plugs in the 3UR and 2UZ and note issues, poor performane etc,

Where they a direct cross reference or where they winging it on their own by trying to go colder due to performance mods? Big difference and not apples to apples.

I'm pretty confident Denso knows what the hell they are doing and designing. If you put your vehicle in on their website, it gives you all plugs DESIGNED AND MADE SPECIFICALLY for the stock engine in the vehicle.

 

[Adrenaline6]

So denso didn’t tell Toyota they’d be better for their state of the art engines? Or maybe marketing claims mean more than billion dollar companies doing everything in their power to optimize their designs.

There are great places and reasons to deviate from OEM. The evidence we have (new engine designs from Toyota) suggests this isn’t one.

Some newer Toyota engines do use them. So that argument is not one.

 

[04UZJ100]

Where they a direct cross reference or where they winging it on their own by trying to go colder due to performance mods? Big difference and not apples to apples.

I'm pretty confident Denso knows what the hell they are doing and designing. If you put your vehicle in on their website, it gives you all plugs DESIGNED AND MADE SPECIFICLALLY for the stock engine in the vehicle.

So do those As Seen on TV spark plug manufacturers.

Toyota specs an NGK and a Denso plug (singular from each manufacturer). Period.

 

[Adrenaline6]

So do those As Seen on TV spark plug manufacturers.

Toyota specs an NGK and a Denso plug (singular from each manufacturer). Period.

They also spec everything else...period. Yet you changed things. How dare you?

Comparing Denso to an as seen on TV add is comical, being that they design the actual oem plug and know what the manufacturer spec is.

 

[04UZJ100]

They also spec everything else...period. Yet you changed things. How dare you?

Bolt on components are something completely different than electronics that are directly related to the ignition system.

 

[Adrenaline6]

Bolt on components are something completely different than electronics that are directly related to the ignition system.

Funny. Not sure how you put yours in, but my plugs bolted right in.

 

[Adrenaline6]

Seriously guys. I post in a thread linking a tool that makes changing plugs...at least for me...pretty simple in hoping to help others to have the same experience.

I just mentioned I didn't use the stock plug. Didn't mention it was better or that anyone should do the same. Just that I did and also mention it is no big deal for me.

Then a couple members, think it is a good idea and helpful to derail a thread that is made to help people change plugs because they think that I shouldn't have done that. Get a freaking life dudes. Use OEM...don't use OEM. It's your vehicle. Get over it.

Mods...please delete all this useless bickering that takes away from the thread please (post #76 til #91).

 

[08URJ200]

Hypocritical gatekeeping at its finest

 

[doru]

Back to regular program ... Instead of creating one more thread I'll add to this one with my experience and procedure that I used. Some of this stuff was already covered some is different some may be controversial for some. It is particular to my truck. Looks like there are some very small variations between years.

Anyway, here it goes for a 2013 LX. For pictures, please see previous posts.

Parts:
Toyota 9091901191, 90919-01191; 90919A1002; 90919T1006 Engine Spark plug (they are Denso plugs actually)
Denso SK20HR11 Stock 3421
NGK Iridium IX LFR6AIX-11 Stock 6619

I ordered Toyota plugs but they messed up and sent me plugs for a Camry. I found that after opening the engine so I had to run to local auto parts and get Denso plugs.

Torques [nm/ft.lbs]:
Spark plug 21/15
Coil bolts (x8) 10/7
Air cleaner box bolts (x3) 5/44in.lbf
Air cleaner hose clamps (x2) 5/44in.lbf
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to head cover rear bolts (2x 12mm head) 18/13
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to head cover mid way bolt (10mm head) 10/7
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to timing chain cover bolt (10mm head) 10/7

FSM
RepairManual-RM19F0U-EngineHybridSystem-2013.pdf page 116

Procedure
Lower suspension to LO
Start with the RH firewall plug #8 cylinder, as it is the more time consuming but it is the easiest of the two sides.
Remove covers
Remove undercovers - Not needed unless you drop something
Remove the air cleaner hose and flip it over the engine - do not disconnect any wires or hoses.
Remove the air cleaner box top and flip it over the engine - do not disconnect any wires or hoses.
Remove the air cleaner box bottom 3x 10mm head screws
Disconnect the engine harness from the firewall bracket - do not unplug the harness
Disconnect the water by-pass pipe assembly from the engine:

Remove the 2x bolts 10mm heads, and disconnect the water by-pass pipe from the cylinder head cover (on the side, past middle engine) and timing chain cover (in front next to the thermostat housing).​

Remove the 2x bolts 12mm heads around #8 plug, and disconnect the water by-pass pipe from the cylinder head cover. Manual say to disconnect a 3rd bolt on the transmission, but it was not needed.​

Blow the area around the sparkplugs with compressed air to remove any lose dirt
One sparkplug at a time:

Disconnect coil electrical connector - I had to use a pick to release the clip with one hand and work the plug out with the other​

Remove coil by twisting it - on some plugs locations the pipes/hoses/wires may need to be pushed around, coil may need to be rotated to clear stuff. Hold on the coil rubber gasket as it might be stuck to the valve cover. Do not drop it. Do not lose it.​

Blow hole and around it w/ compressed air​

Remove spark - I used a magnetic sparkplug socket with integrated extension​

Mark the cylinder # with a pen on the spark​

Inspect the spark condition for abnormal conditions​

Install new spark - I used a very light coat of antiseize grease from the base half inch toward tip and reduced torque to 19Nm. Do not fill in the threads with grease; use your gloved fingernail or a tool to remove any excess. Rotate the spark by hand counterclockwise until you feel a "drop" on the tool - that is the start of the thread, then reverse direction and thread in the spark by hand. With the little antiseize grease it should be smooth as butter going all the way in by hand.​

Apply dielectric grease inside the coil rubber hood that goes over the spark insulator using a Q-tip​

Push the coil gasket all the way onto the coil past the two holding ridges. The gasket position is with the flat side toward coil and ridge side toward valve cover​

Install coil and bolt (10mm head, longer, no washer), hand tight​

Torque all the coil bolts w/ 10mm socket
Reconnect coil electrical connectors:

Blow w/ air the coil electrical connector, both halves​

Apply dielectric grease​

Plug the connector making sure you hear the click.​

Bolt on the water by-pass pipe assembly:

Install the midway cylinder head cover bolt but leave it very lose to just provide support to the pipe​

Install the timing chain cover bolt hand tight​

Install the rear 2x bolts (12mm heads) hand tight​

Torque all bolts starting from front of the engine back​

Clip engine electrical harness back on its firewall bracket
Install air box
Install air hose

If you need a break to drive the truck to shopping or pickup kids, now it is a good time.

Move to the left side spark plugs. It looks easier but it is harder than the right side due to clearance.
Disconnect the electrical harness from the bracket - mid engin location

Remove the top of the fuse box
Release the top electrical harness coming to the fuse box from the box case. Just press with a small screwdriver the clips inside the harness holes (see arrows) while pulling up, one at a time.
The actual sparkplugs replacement procedure is the same but there are a few notes …

The AC pipes and brake stuff are getting in the way and if you have a longer magnetic socket extension it will not fit on at least 2 of the spark plugs. You'll need a backup plan. I used a regular sparkplug socket that has a rubber insert but no extension. It works fine for removal. For install I had to use a piece of rubber glove (a finger) between extension and the socket to make extension not detach from the socket when pulling out as the socket rubber insert makes the socket stuck on the plug.​

Even if you can get the magnetic socket in, it might not be easy to start the spark thread straight. The backup plan is to use the same method as above to start the plug but insert the plug into the socket very little to prevent it being stuck. After starting the thread, remove the socket and insert the magnetic one to finish the plug.​

Clip the electrical harness back
Clip the fuse box harness back and close the box (good time to blow the dirt out of that box with compressed air)
Test the engine running, look for errors or codes
Install the covers on top
Install the undercovers if removed.

 

[KLF]

@doru thanks for that detailed write up, I need to do mine soon.

Can't we go back to some more useless bickering? That was entertaining...

 

[dubyahard]

FYI Rockauto is having a sale. Just paid $6.64/ea for the Denso plugs.

 

[bloc]

Is rockauto generally trustworthy with regard to counterfeits and such? I know fake plugs are a huge problem on Amazon.

 

[dubyahard]

Is rockauto generally trustworthy with regard to counterfeits and such? I know fake plugs are a huge problem on Amazon.

Not sure. I've ordered a handful of parts from them in the past and it's never been an issue.

 

[HUZZAH]

Is rockauto generally trustworthy with regard to counterfeits and such? I know fake plugs are a huge problem on Amazon.

Really hope so...that's where I got my Aisin trans fluid.

 

[gasman4u]

All the stuff I’ve ordered from rock auto before seems legit. I will say, I don’t order from amazon given the high likelihood of fake stuff. But rock auto, I trust. For better or worse.

Is rockauto generally trustworthy with regard to counterfeits and such? I know fake plugs are a huge problem on Amazon.

 

[doru]

All stuff from rockauto over the years was legit. They are old reputable business.
They are also good and efficient on dealing with product problems when they inevitable will arrive, not of their fault.

 

[dubyahard]

Back to regular program ... Instead of creating one more thread I'll add to this one with my experience and procedure that I used. Some of this stuff was already covered some is different some may be controversial for some. It is particular to my truck. Looks like there are some very small variations between years.

Anyway, here it goes for a 2013 LX. For pictures, please see previous posts.

Parts:
Toyota 9091901191, 90919-01191; 90919A1002; 90919T1006 Engine Spark plug (they are Denso plugs actually)
Denso SK20HR11 Stock 3421
NGK Iridium IX LFR6AIX-11 Stock 6619

I ordered Toyota plugs but they messed up and sent me plugs for a Camry. I found that after opening the engine so I had to run to local auto parts and get Denso plugs.

Torques [nm/ft.lbs]:
Spark plug 21/15
Coil bolts (x8) 10/7
Air cleaner box bolts (x3) 5/44in.lbf
Air cleaner hose clamps (x2) 5/44in.lbf
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to head cover rear bolts (2x 12mm head) 18/13
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to head cover mid way bolt (10mm head) 10/7
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to timing chain cover bolt (10mm head) 10/7

FSM
RepairManual-RM19F0U-EngineHybridSystem-2013.pdf page 116

Procedure
Lower suspension to LO
Start with the RH firewall plug #8 cylinder, as it is the more time consuming but it is the easiest of the two sides.
Remove covers
Remove undercovers - Not needed unless you drop something
Remove the air cleaner hose and flip it over the engine - do not disconnect any wires or hoses.
Remove the air cleaner box top and flip it over the engine - do not disconnect any wires or hoses.
Remove the air cleaner box bottom 3x 10mm head screws
Disconnect the engine harness from the firewall bracket - do not unplug the harness
Disconnect the water by-pass pipe assembly from the engine:

Remove the 2x bolts 10mm heads, and disconnect the water by-pass pipe from the cylinder head cover (on the side, past middle engine) and timing chain cover (in front next to the thermostat housing).​

Remove the 2x bolts 12mm heads around #8 plug, and disconnect the water by-pass pipe from the cylinder head cover. Manual say to disconnect a 3rd bolt on the transmission, but it was not needed.​

Blow the area around the sparkplugs with compressed air to remove any lose dirt
One sparkplug at a time:

Disconnect coil electrical connector - I had to use a pick to release the clip with one hand and work the plug out with the other​

Remove coil by twisting it - on some plugs locations the pipes/hoses/wires may need to be pushed around, coil may need to be rotated to clear stuff. Hold on the coil rubber gasket as it might be stuck to the valve cover. Do not drop it. Do not lose it.​

Blow hole and around it w/ compressed air​

Remove spark - I used a magnetic sparkplug socket with integrated extension​

Mark the cylinder # with a pen on the spark​

Inspect the spark condition for abnormal conditions​

Install new spark - I used a very light coat of antiseize grease from the base half inch toward tip and reduced torque to 19Nm. Do not fill in the threads with grease; use your gloved fingernail or a tool to remove any excess. Rotate the spark by hand counterclockwise until you feel a "drop" on the tool - that is the start of the thread, then reverse direction and thread in the spark by hand. With the little antiseize grease it should be smooth as butter going all the way in by hand.​

Apply dielectric grease inside the coil rubber hood that goes over the spark insulator using a Q-tip​

Push the coil gasket all the way onto the coil past the two holding ridges. The gasket position is with the flat side toward coil and ridge side toward valve cover​

Install coil and bolt (10mm head, longer, no washer), hand tight​

Torque all the coil bolts w/ 10mm socket
Reconnect coil electrical connectors:

Blow w/ air the coil electrical connector, both halves​

Apply dielectric grease​

Plug the connector making sure you hear the click.​

Bolt on the water by-pass pipe assembly:

Install the midway cylinder head cover bolt but leave it very lose to just provide support to the pipe​

Install the timing chain cover bolt hand tight​

Install the rear 2x bolts (12mm heads) hand tight​

Torque all bolts starting from front of the engine back​

Clip engine electrical harness back on its firewall bracket
Install air box
Install air hose

If you need a break to drive the truck to shopping or pickup kids, now it is a good time.

Move to the left side spark plugs. It looks easier but it is harder than the right side due to clearance.
Disconnect the electrical harness from the bracket - mid engin location
View attachment 3379609
Remove the top of the fuse box
Release the top electrical harness coming to the fuse box from the box case. Just press with a small screwdriver the clips inside the harness holes (see arrows) while pulling up, one at a time.
The actual sparkplugs replacement procedure is the same but there are a few notes …

The AC pipes and brake stuff are getting in the way and if you have a longer magnetic socket extension it will not fit on at least 2 of the spark plugs. You'll need a backup plan. I used a regular sparkplug socket that has a rubber insert but no extension. It works fine for removal. For install I had to use a piece of rubber glove (a finger) between extension and the socket to make extension not detach from the socket when pulling out as the socket rubber insert makes the socket stuck on the plug.​

Even if you can get the magnetic socket in, it might not be easy to start the spark thread straight. The backup plan is to use the same method as above to start the plug but insert the plug into the socket very little to prevent it being stuck. After starting the thread, remove the socket and insert the magnetic one to finish the plug.​

Clip the electrical harness back
Clip the fuse box harness back and close the box (good time to blow the dirt out of that box with compressed air)
Test the engine running, look for errors or codes
Install the covers on top
Install the undercovers if removed.

Changed spark plugs the other day using @doru 's directions and it made it a breeze. Other than having to stop part way through to run to Toyota to get a machine bolt that holds down #6 coilpack (it was just gone... yet somehow still stuck on and no codes) and to stop for our daily thunderstorm, it went pretty smoothly.

#8 had some oil so I cleaned what I could. The others were dry. And I cannot find any record of the plugs being changed before. I have 201k. There are copious records from Bell and Arrowhead Lexus from the PO and I see no record of change.