Centering Steering Wheel

[SpenserAK]

Yep, those are the ones. Simple as loosening them enough to rotate the bar, and then getting them nice & snug after adjustment. This is one of the things where I'm not worried about torque spec.

My wheel was way off when I got my truck, from the lift installation years before. Got it as close as I could in the driveway, then a couple short drives to feel it out, making micro adjustments as necessary. You can be as perfectionist as you want (or not) on this one

 

[COYS]

Yep, those are the ones. Simple as loosening them enough to rotate the bar, and then getting them nice & snug after adjustment. This is one of the things where I'm not worried about torque spec.

My wheel was way off when I got my truck, from the lift installation years before. Got it as close as I could in the driveway, then a couple short drives to feel it out, making micro adjustments as necessary. You can be as perfectionist as you want (or not) on this one

Amongst many other things, I'm seriously lacking in the tools dept.

Do I really need a big arse wrench to grip and rotate the relay rod upon loosening the two nuts or will a good firm grip do the trick? I probably need like max 1/4 turn for the micro adjustment I need.

 

[-Spike-]

Amongst many other things, I'm seriously lacking in the tools dept.

Do I really need a big arse wrench to grip and rotate the relay rod upon loosening the two nuts or will a good firm grip do the trick? I probably need like max 1/4 turn for the micro adjustment I need.

Only one way to find out.

 

[SpenserAK]

Hah, yes, depends on how hard it is to turn. A past vehicle of mine took blaster, torch, hammer whacks, and a firm grip to get it moving. On my 80, it only took a gentle hug from vice grips I had in the back. Might be able to do it by hand, but haven't tried.

 

[robnicko]

spray your lube of choice in the threaded section and loosen the clamps completely, then use a large flat head screwdriver to pry the slot a little. once it starts moving should be good to go.
I replaced my TRE's last year and when I put the new ones in I put anti seize on the threads so centering adjustment if needed will be easier down the track

an after thought was to find a large hex nut that fits over the relay rod and weld it in half way, that would make thing a lot easier in future

 

[Drift Monkey]

This did the trick today for the drag link, but it didn’t work for the tie rod behind. I’ll let it soak longer and go buy a big pipe wrench to set the toe (currently sitting at 0 but I’d like 1/8” toe in).

 

[BILT4ME]

Pick up a 12" or 18" pipe wrench and that will do.

I can turn mine by hand now, but I have slathered it in anti-seize.

The threads on these get rusty even in CA because of whatever rain you've driven through gets in the slots on each end and corrodes it.

I THINK you'll need a 17 mm wrench for the bolts, then the pipe wrench to rotate. Longer is better unless you have a cheater pipe available.

Buy an aluminum pipe wrench because they are a lot lighter to handle.

 

[Drift Monkey]

Pick up a 12" or 18" pipe wrench and that will do.

I can turn mine by hand now, but I have slathered it in anti-seize.

The threads on these get rusty even in CA because of whatever rain you've driven through gets in the slots on each end and corrodes it.

I THINK you'll need a 17 mm wrench for the bolts, then the pipe wrench to rotate. Longer is better unless you have a cheater pipe available.

Buy an aluminum pipe wrench because they are a lot lighter to handle.

I was just gonna goto down to Harbor Freight (I'm there way too often ) and grab the biggest pipe wrench I can find.

36 in. Steel Pipe Wrench

Amazing deals on this 36In Steel Pipe Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Or aluminum: 36 in. Aluminum Pipe Wrench - https://www.harborfreight.com/36-in-aluminum-pipe-wrench-63650.html

17mm is correct for all the lock bolts, and a prybar/screwdriver to open them up a bit.

My ghetto setup worked well enough to break it free - I can turn it pretty easily with channel locks now. I got my steering nice and centered after a little trial and error. I have a feeling a pipe wrench would have saved me some trouble, and I’ll def need it for the tie rod side (which I’m still soaking).

I’m def going to slather the slots all in anti-seize or HD grease afterwards to try and keep any future moisture out!

 

[BILT4ME]

I was just gonna goto down to Harbor Freight (I'm there way too often ) and grab the biggest pipe wrench I can find.

36 in. Steel Pipe Wrench

Amazing deals on this 36In Steel Pipe Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Or aluminum: 36 in. Aluminum Pipe Wrench - https://www.harborfreight.com/36-in-aluminum-pipe-wrench-63650.html

17mm is correct for all the lock bolts, and a prybar/screwdriver to open them up a bit.

My ghetto setup worked well enough to break it free - I can turn it pretty easily with channel locks now. I got my steering nice and centered after a little trial and error. I have a feeling a pipe wrench would have saved me some trouble, and I’ll def need it for the tie rod side (which I’m still soaking).

I’m def going to slather the slots all in anti-seize or HD grease afterwards to try and keep any future moisture out!

I also pump grease into the slots after I'm done to fill the holes and keep out the moisture and dirt.

I learned that from being on the farm.

 

[NorCal97]

spray your lube of choice in the threaded section and loosen the clamps completely, then use a large flat head screwdriver to pry the slot a little. once it starts moving should be good to go.
I replaced my TRE's last year and when I put the new ones in I put anti seize on the threads so centering adjustment if needed will be easier down the track

an after thought was to find a large hex nut that fits over the relay rod and weld it in half way, that would make thing a lot easier in future

Yup, did that - worked great:
Post in thread 'Marlin Crawler Steering Upgrade Kit' Marlin Crawler Steering Upgrade Kit - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/marlin-crawler-steering-upgrade-kit.1139439/post-13236948

 

[jht3]

first time i tried this, it took quite a bit of force to break the threads free. i sprayed what i could /w PB blaster a day in advance. just a 12in pipe wrench wasn't enough to get it done. a cheater pipe slipped over the end gave me the required leverage. I had the truck sitting on its tires and therefore only had a few degrees of movement w/ the cheater bar attached.

the pipe wrench did bite into and mark up the drag link, so i hit it w/ rust reformer and black spray paint to cover up both my markings and prior adjustments.

i actually over did it, and now my wheel is a couple degrees off center in the OTHER direction. so i'll get in there shortly and do it again.

 

[Heckraiser]

Haha, I was catching up on the first page and said to myself "no way @COYS undercarriage is that dirty and beat" (not that the pictures are bad at all aside from the bent link). Keep scrolling and, yup, pristine front-end confirmed.

 

[COYS]

LMAO

Haha, I was catching up on the first page and said to myself "no way @COYS undercarriage is that dirty and beat" (not that the pictures are bad at all aside from the bent link). Keep scrolling and, yup, pristine front-end confirmed.

Lmao

I’ll report back if I f it up and tell half bananas to not do what I did

 

[jht3]

its pretty hard to F this one up. loosen both clamps, rotate entire link one direction or the other, tighten clamps. worse you can do is have an off center wheel...which you already have!

corrosion on the threads is the trouble maker here. heat or pb blaster type substances can help overcome a frozen rod end. and a long lever on a wrench that can bite into the steel rod.

i did find it challenging to correlate turns on the rod to degrees of steering wheel correction. lots of trips between the drivers seat and back under the truck. my rod didn't spin nice and freely, but instead w/ lots of resistance and noise as i don't think its been adjusted in a LONG time. someone has been there before me b/c there are rusty wrench teeth marks. now cleaned up and repainted black.

 

[COYS]

Update:

Insanely ez on mine. The relay rod rotated like a fat kid on skates.

I’d say ~1/8” counter-clockwise (aka rolling the rod toward front of truck) netted me the same if not a skosh more at the *steering wheel rim* to the driver side (counter-clockwise). Exactly what I needed.

A little goes a long way as I’ve come to learn doing this myself.

 

[Drift Monkey]

24 incher from harbor freight did the job (with a jack to assist in breaking the first few threads free). I was able to just use the pipe wrench by hand to adjust to where I wanted. Got 66 17/32”rear of hub, 66 13/32” front of hub for a final toe of 1/8”, which I’m happy with. Greased up all the threads with my needle fitting on the grease gun + Green Grease - hopefully she’s good for a while.

 

[uscmas412]

Just completed this job after an R&R of the the steering column coupler or flexible coupling assembly, part number 45230-60010. I think the column was cockeyed from a previous repair and the relay rod adjusted to compensate. This didn't show until I installed the new coupler which only goes on one direction (at least with my knowledge) and there was evidence a pipe wrench had been used on the relay rod. The above directions worked perfectly, took about 4-5 turns of the control rod to move the steering wheel from 10-12 o'clock.

Here's a video of steering column play....seems excessive and the steering gear box is original to my knowledge. Prepping for new tires and Delta front radius arms, so I want to rule out all these issues before install.

Steering Column Video