Cell Booster Install

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I've been camping a lot. Glamping that is. Yet is it really glamping without cell reception? Or civilized off-roading without real-time data?

Time for a cell booster install. Sneak peak:

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This is the newest WeBoost Reach model that improves upon the prior king of consumer boosters, the WeBoost Drive 4G-X. This booster supports multi-carrier and just about the complete spectrum of 2G, 3G, and 4G/LTE cellular bands. For context, I'm strictly a Verizon Android user, but this will support just about anything out there, with added support for some of the newer bands.

So why this particular model? Couple major reasons:

1) Uplink power
Boosters universally advertise "gain" which is interpreted as downlink signal boost. This is actually federally limited so there's relatively little differentiation. Mobil multi-band applications are limited to 50 dB. Static boosters, 65 dB. Other variations allow more power when only single band. Comms however is bi-directional. A far-away tower can't establish comms if it can't "hear" you. What's little spec'd and the significant differentiation is uplink power or uplink gain. That's where this Weboost Reach makes the biggest difference having upwards of twice more power than the last top of the line model. And way more than generic boosters.

For comparison of uplink power the popular WeBoost line-up. Signal is measured in dB which is a logarithmic scale, each 3 dB represents a doubling of power. Which is not quite double the range as that actually takes 4x the power, but it's appreciably more. Good luck finding these specs for off brand boosters.

Drive 4G-M – 21.4 dBm
Connect RV 65 – 24.6 dBm
Drive 4G-X – 24.8 dBm
Drive Sleek – 25.6 dBm
Drive Reach Fleet - 29.5 dBm

2) LTE/Bands Supported - 12/17, 13, 5, 4, 2, 25
Just about complete for every carrier in the US. Including some newer bands like 25 which is really important to T-Mobil users. And Band 66, which is an extension of band 4 and important to Verizon and I think AT&T.


Notes
- Interior to exterior proximity between the antenna's is important as the send/receive signals are common and can loop back attenuating or shutting down the booster (much like microphone sound system feedback). It's important to have the unibody metal prevent line of sight of the antennas through glass (moonroof) for example, to maximize signal power and gain.
- Proximity between the phone and the interior antenna is also important to maximize uplink gain. This is a particular parameter to pay attention to if you want to maximize spec'd booster performance.
- The antenna included in this kit requires a ground plane. Meaning approximately an 8" x 8" section of sheet metal that the base of the antenna (magnetic) mounts to and is necessary for antenna functionality.
- Boosters can't conjure up signal from thin air. The predominant case it's effective for is at least 1 bar, perhaps non-functional, worth of signal that's then boosted to establish solid and fast communication. It can on occasion elicit signals, but more rarely.
- Physical gain can be added with height, antennas that are larger, specialty antennas that are both larger and don't require a ground plane (trucker OTR), directional (yagi), or the many other variations. These would have compromises to a consumer vehicle for obvious reasons.


Results
This booster kicks butt and is the definitely delivering significant gains beyond what I've seen before. Prior to purchasing this unit, I tried a WeBoost Sleek and a Phonetone band 12/13/17 booster. I hated the WeBoost Sleek for its retarded phone cradle that was troublesome to use, and for the fact that it had a ridiculous bright on light staring at you. The Phonetone was better and had a similar candybar interior antenna to the Weboost Reach which I like as it's completely transparent in using. Yet it had limited band support. My research told me that Verizon was predominantly band 13. In use and in remote areas, I saw a ton of band 2, 4, and 66 (part of band 4) , which it did not support so was of no use.

Initial results. It's boosting all the channels that I want. And producing gains substantially higher than I saw from the other booster models I tried. Here's two snapshots. First one turning a non-functional signal into a strong stable and fast signal on band 2.

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So I have an opportunity to work with them on a group buy where I can get nice discounts for mud members on Wilson Pro/WeBoost products, but I am still unsure if thas the route I want to go.

How do you like it after a few months? Would you recommend it to other members?
 
So I have an opportunity to work with them on a group buy where I can get nice discounts for mud members on Wilson Pro/WeBoost products, but I am still unsure if thas the route I want to go.

How do you like it after a few months? Would you recommend it to other members?

For my style of travel, I wouldn't do without it. Where we travel and camp often has spotty connectivity. I rely on it for entertainment, but also to do research on the area while there so that we can get the most out of the trip. While I do plan the major aspects of a trip, I prefer to adhoc the details depending on situation and mood.

What prevents the use of a booster rated for stationary applications (WeBoost RV for example) while driving? Would anyone ever know?

It will depend on the kit, but some static applications have antennas more suited to that use (larger antennas, directional, etc.). Also, regulations allow great amplification power. May be an opportunity.
 
What prevents the use of a booster rated for stationary applications (WeBoost RV for example) while driving? Would anyone ever know?
They run on 115 volts and use a directional mounted antenna.

They would work with a different antenna.

The older versions are better like I said above, they have the most power/boost. The new ones they have toned them down.
 
Be aware that while older units may have more amplification power as they were less regulated, many of those may not boost newer channels that are becoming standard today. Lots of power that doesn't support the right channels may not help as I learned with an earlier generic unit that I had.

Right channels will depend on your provider, location, and specific cell phone. Fortunately, the newest Weboost models support just about all channels and providers so my camping buddies can benefit too.
 
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They run on 115 volts and use a directional mounted antenna.

They would work with a different antenna.

The older versions are better like I said above, they have the most power/boost. The new ones they have toned them down.

The older pre FCC hi output did not work on 4G per the Weboost tech that get me started with looking for HO. Now both of mine are of the latest design and seem to work as good. YMMV
 
The older pre FCC hi output did not work on 4G per the Weboost tech that get me started with looking for HO. Now both of mine are of the latest design and seem to work as good. YMMV

They work on 4G .. says 4G right on it.

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Awesome thread, and one of the reasons I am here!

So what is the "hot" setup? The trucker antenna and which WeBoost model?

And maybe a strange question but what type of energy is emitted inside the cab when one of these things is on?
 
Awesome thread, and one of the reasons I am here!

So what is the "hot" setup? The trucker antenna and which WeBoost model?

And maybe a strange question but what type of energy is emitted inside the cab when one of these things is on?

I run a small antenna on the center of the hood on 1 vehicle and have the big antenna on the front bumper on another. Personally I dont see any difference in performance using a cell strength meter. My take away is its hard to beat a good ground plane. YMMV
 
Hey Guys, thanks for the quality feedback from everyone in this very informative thread. Thank you to @TeCKis300 and others for paving the way and doing some great work in testing these. Thank you for permission to share this here as well, much appreciated. Also, can’t forget @LandCruiserPhil as he was one of the first to test these and the guy is a wealth of information.

I have been in contact with WeBoost and Wilson Pro, as well as their distributors for over a month now. They offered me great prices to offer to Mud Members for a group buy, but I have been hesitant because I wanted to research it more before pitching it to members.

This thread is one of the main reasons I went from being on the fence to deciding to move forward with trying to put the GB together. I will have prices finalized soon, and can go ahead and say that it will be a significant amount cheaper than amazon, or anywhere else I can find. The only thing is that I can’t publicly post the coupon code, but I can share via DM. For more information, please stop by the GB thread for WeBoost and Wilson Pro (same company).

Thanks everyone!

 
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If it was made after April 30, 2014 is not 3watt


These and the weboost re-label "of this model" do have more watts than the newer ones.... just saying.

They are just better, and you can still find them new.
 
Just FYI, antennas and in particular the kinds of coax cable make a huge difference. I have a couple versions of famous antennas and they are not even tuned for the package frequency. Think dual band antennas that only really performed well at 440, or antennas that performed poorly over the entire spectrum. Or, a magnet mount 1/4 wave that was fantastic.

I found all that out through a cheap network analyzer. There is definitely a learning curve, but I've found this is only way I can accurately tune antennas. Amazon product ASIN B0825PZNJJ
 
What prevents the use of a booster rated for stationary applications (WeBoost RV for example) while driving? Would anyone ever know?
FCC rules, mainly.

Be aware if you use a high gain omnidirectional antenna but it's too close to your cell phone the unit may have amplification feedback and may internally shut down to prevent damage. Kind of like when your microphone is too close to your speakers. It's one of the reasons the higher gain antennas are designed to be mounted higher up. If you're using a cell cradle booster in your truck this may be less of an issue but I've definitely had this happen in my trailer with the 50dBm antenna/booster combo if the interior repeater is too close, so I imagine the 65dBm+ versions would make it unusable for me.

High gain directional antennas are great for parked RV use as they both focus the signal towards the cell site (though you do need to aim them) as well as reduce background noise (by decreasing the unwanted noise/signals coming from other areas).
 
Anyone know the manufacturer/part number or a good site to search for the tailgate frame mount used here to hang the OTR antenna? I need to mount here as well due to my iKamper, and have struck out looking for it so far...

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