Castor/pinion angle question for de-grring

[LandCruiserPhil]

My needs are definitely special

I can relate Can we assume you made it home safe with all your Moab excitement

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

OME bushings the 2.5 offest. I am thinking about getting those adjustable ones to get back a little more caster after the driveshaft comes in. Try and get the correct caster/pinion angle combo. It drives okay right now, a little wandery, but truthfully I think thats more 300k worth of steering gear than castor.

Adjustable could possible give you the fine tuning needed with the new DL. I would want to know where my caster is first. I can tell you the difference between 2° and 4° caster on a lifted truck with tires is day and night if that matters.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

What are you using for caster correction and do you know what your caster readings are?

Thanks for your product support.

it gives the flex

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

it gives the flex

Nice 40th with balanced flex and a flat body
Better flex without question average gain is 15%

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Nice 40th with balanced flex and a flat body
Better flex without question average gain is 15%

Thats the best part, if you are doing fast 2 track its a huge help to keep head bob to a minimum. Thinking devils lane in the needles or teapot road in the maze. Much smoother ride. The extra flex for crawling is a perk but mainly its the smoothness thats a win.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thats the best part, if you are doing fast 2 track its a huge help to keep head bob to a minimum. Thinking devils lane in the needles or teapot road in the maze. Much smoother ride. The extra flex for crawling is a perk but mainly its the smoothness thats a win.

Its a win win, been disconnecting since 2004

Hit me up on your next trip to the Maze as you know I like Southern Utah

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Its a win win, been disconnecting since 2004

Hit me up on your next trip to the Maze as you know I like Southern Utah

Well I know you just got back but I am headed to the swell in a few weeks. 5-8th if there is any interest there.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Sidenote - do I need new bolts for the driveshafts? Should I use blue locktite on them?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Well I know you just got back but I am headed to the swell in a few weeks. 5-8th if there is any interest there.

I penciled in for Mexico at the same time

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Sidenote - do I need new bolts for the driveshafts? Should I use blue locktite on them?

Not at all if you torque to specs
96'
54lbs - Front driveline
65lbs - Rear driveline

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Not at all if you torque to specs
96'
54lbs - Front driveline
65lbs - Rear driveline

cool, thanks. If Mexico is penciled out just let me know. Its going to be a pretty loose plan for the northern swell.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

cool, thanks. If Mexico is penciled out just let me know. Its going to be a pretty loose place for the northern swell.

Sounds perfect - Adventure travel is much more exciting

 

[baldilocks]

I can relate Can we assume you made it home safe with all your Moab excitement

Not home yet. The week in Moab was the middle point. Supposed to be home on the 30th. We left home on September 8.

 

[ontopofm]

Anyone knows the "stock high" rear pinion angles? I want to use it for reference. I dont get the grrr anymore after adjusting the UCA but still get humming from 55mph+

 

[digitalmarker]

Anyone knows the "stock high" rear pinion angles? I want to use it for reference. I dont get the grrr anymore after adjusting the UCA but still get humming from 55mph+

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead... but did you ever get your answer? I just went down from a 4" slee lift to a 3" slinky lift, and am getting rear driveline vibration between 30 and 55 mph.

I have a DC shaft in the front so doubt it's the source of the issue, and it really feels like the vibrations are coming from the rear of the vehicle.

I got an angle finder, but having a hard time measuring the angle at the transfer case side. Am able to get it flat on the diff side though, going to lower the truck ofg the stand and find out what it actually is.

I have adjustable UCAs from Slee and trying to figure out which way to adjust them to dial this in - hate the feeling of vibrations and it's the first time I have experienced it. The Slee kit came with measurement instructions for the UCAs that had it really well dialed in - no vibes until I lowered the truck.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Dont doubt it could be the front. A DC shaft is not a cure all. Slee doesnt sell DC anymore should say something.

You need to start at the beginning and pull your front to determine for sure what end is your problem.

 

[LC4LIFE]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead... but did you ever get your answer? I just went down from a 4" slee lift to a 3" slinky lift, and am getting rear driveline vibration between 30 and 55 mph.

I have a DC shaft in the front so doubt it's the source of the issue, and it really feels like the vibrations are coming from the rear of the vehicle.

I got an angle finder, but having a hard time measuring the angle at the transfer case side. Am able to get it flat on the diff side though, going to lower the truck ofg the stand and find out what it actually is.

I have adjustable UCAs from Slee and trying to figure out which way to adjust them to dial this in - hate the feeling of vibrations and it's the first time I have experienced it. The Slee kit came with measurement instructions for the UCAs that had it really well dialed in - no vibes until I lowered the truck.

Do it this way for the front, you could for the back as well, but using this method for measuring the front works very well. DC-Shaft pinion check

 

[digitalmarker]

Dont doubt it could be the front. A DC shaft is not a cure all. Slee doesnt sell DC anymore should say something.

You need to start at the beginning and pull your front to determine for sure what end is your problem.

Assuming the front is the problem, what, if anything can be done to address it? I already have the leading arms from Slee which should adjust for the caster issue, and have a DC shaft there as well. It all ran fine with a 4" lift, so I am at a loss as to why going down 1" would suddenly cause a problem.

The main reason I suspect it's the rear is because the only adjustment that could have potentially changed by lowering the rear is the rear diff pinion angle since I left the UCAs at the same length they were set at for the 4" lift.

Does this logic make sense?

 

[digitalmarker]

Do it this way for the front, you could for the back as well, but using this method for measuring the front works very well. DC-Shaft pinion check

Thank you, this is definitely doable. I still have the truck on stands, going to finish up a couple of things and lower it later today.

I am able to get the reader flush with the rear pinion, on the back side, but can't get it to sit flush on either side of the TC.

Hopefully the same method works for the rear - assuming the 1* threshold applies to both?

 

[LC4LIFE]

Assuming the front is the problem, what, if anything can be done to address it? I already have the leading arms from Slee which should adjust for the caster issue, and have a DC shaft there as well. It all ran fine with a 4" lift, so I am at a loss as to why going down 1" would suddenly cause a problem.

The main reason I suspect it's the rear is because the only adjustment that could have potentially changed by lowering the rear is the rear diff pinion angle since I left the UCAs at the same length they were set at for the 4" lift.

Does this logic make sense?

You can definitely have a grrr at 3". You need to measure angles. The rear drive shaft is longer so lifting/lowering affects angles less that I why you should measure both.