Caster Plates for a 3” Lift are they all the same ?

[Sharky1528]

Guys,
I have searched on here and still find myself a little confused about the caster plates for the 3” lifts. I plan on doing the Slinky 3” HD springs on my LX450 but still not sure about who makes the “ Best “ plates for this size lift ? Slee , Landtank , Etc … Etc

I don’t want to go bushings and would like to NOT add the extra expense of a DC front drive shaft if possible but will if I get into vibration issues. It just seems like if your in the 2.5 to 3 inch lift range it’s not as cut and dry as it is for say 4 or 6 inch lifts


Your thoughts ?

 

[NLXTACY]

Marketed as 2.5” but they’ll cover 2-3”
80 Series Caster Correction Plates- 2.5in.

 

[Noahrob]

I run the 3” slinky springs with Slee plates.

 

[gummycarbs]

Why not caster correcting trunnion bearings?

 

[Heckraiser]

There is no "best." Sorry! Slee is designed for a little more lift than the Wits' End/Landtank 2.5, so presumably will have a higher correction factor and therefore a higher likelihood of driveline vibes. However the greater the caster angle, the better the handling in my book. I know spec is 2-4 degrees, but no doubt in my mind, I'd rather have 4 than 2.

The offset trunion bearings are a really cool product, but they only correct for 3 degrees, which might not be adequate for a 3" lift. A three inch lift should thoretically require a little over 5 degrees of correction to get you back to where you were before the lift.

There are also cheaper DC driveshaft options out there than what you typically see on the usual Landcruiser vendor's websites if the price of a shaft is scaring you away. Mine was $325, fwiw.

 

[Sharky1528]

Hechraiser,
It's like you were reading my mind !! I was thinking after looking at a few vendors online how can I sell my self on a $ 500.00 + DC Driveshaft on top of the price for a lift and all the other stuff that goes along with that so knowing there is a less expensive option is good to know !! I guess I know there is NO " Best " option on Caster Plates with all the different lifts and since no one offers a Front Lower Control Arm set for 3" lifts ( Someone needs to offer one !! ) it sounds like I need to look at the Slee plates but maybe the wits'end also ?? I know the Slinky springs will be on the 3" + side in lift height.

 

[Box Rocket]

I have the Slee plates with my 3” Slinky lift. A combination of caster plates AND caster bearings isn’t a bad option either because the bearings will not only increase caster a bit more but also allow for some camber adjustment. Adding a bit of negative camber makes a nice difference in turn-in and the truck will actually go where you point it instead of understeering when pushing the truck in corners.
I haven’t done the bearings on my truck but driving Darren’s Slinky 80 with the camber adjusted there is a noticeable difference in how the truck handles in corners.

 

[ppc]

Why not caster correcting trunnion bearings?

In my opinion the offset bearings are an expensive solution considering they would need to be replaced periodically as they are a wear item. The bearings are more prone to failure compared to stock because the rollers in the bearings run within a smaller diameter so either/both the rollers are smaller or there are a fewer number of rollers.

 

[Box Rocket]

In my opinion the offset bearings are an expensive solution considering they would need to be replaced periodically as they are a wear item. The bearings are more prone to failure compared to stock because the rollers in the bearings run within a smaller diameter so either/both the rollers are smaller or there are a fewer number of rollers.

This is mostly speculation (no-disrespect intended) as the real-world experience with the bearings doesn't support this theory that they are more prone to failure. By all accounts the offset bearings seem to be as durable as other quality non-offset bearings.

 

[LC4LIFE]

If/when I do plates after I move to the Dobinsons springs, I am going to do the Landtank plates. Whether it's argument worthy or not, I have always liked the point that his plates rotate the axle on its center for a variety of reasons. I already have a DC shaft, so I want more caster, and I also like how his plates seem to align the spring best with the spring seat on the axle and the bump stops.

 

[Qball]

If/when I do plates after I move to the Dobinsons springs, I am going to do the Landtank plates. Whether it's argument worthy or not, I have always liked the point that his plates rotate the axle on its center for a variety of reasons. I already have a DC shaft, so I want more caster, and I also like how his plates seem to align the spring best with the spring seat on the axle and the bump stops.

I'm leaning towards that option also, really want my OEM bushings back.

 

[landtank]

Anytime you are altering the front axle for caster it's critical consider resulting drive line angles and other component alignments or misalignment from the change.

There is a zone between 3 and 4 " that if caster in corrected the theoretically ideal caster amount of 3*, you with have some harmonic vibrations that neither type of drive shaft will compensate for and the only "solution?" Is to part time the truck.

Using my 2.5" caster plates on a 3" lift provides an end result of 2* of caster for this very reason.

I've already had a customer swap out another set of plates for mine which did eliminate the vibrations and the expense of a DC shaft, which I felt wouldnt have help in his situation.

Influencing caster and getting the desired end result isn't all that hard. Addressing the myriad of other potential issues while doing so is the challenge

 

[Irish Reiver]

Anytime you are altering the front axle for caster it's critical consider resulting drive line angles and other component alignments or misalignment from the change.

There is a zone between 3 and 4 " that if caster in corrected the theoretically ideal caster amount of 3*, you with have some harmonic vibrations that neither type of drive shaft will compensate for and the only "solution?" Is to part time the truck.

Using my 2.5" caster plates on a 3" lift provides an end result of 2* of caster for this very reason.

I've already had a customer swap out another set of plates for mine which did eliminate the vibrations and the expense of a DC shaft, which I felt wouldnt have help in his situation.

Influencing caster and getting the desired end result isn't all that hard. Addressing the myriad of other potential issues while doing so is the challenge

I'm guessing I was that customer and I can confirm that my drive line vibes were corrected with the @landtank plates. Previously I had fitted the ToughDog plates which although rated at 5° gave a little bit more. This extra put me in the upper end for castor but also knocked off my pinion angles so neither my stock shaft or a DC shaft would work. Rick's plates are 4 point something degrees which was enough to allow my pinon to come back in alignment without the need of a DC. I had my castor measured by the shop at 2.2°. A little on the low side but in spec. No vibes, no death wobble and not to frisky on the highway.
One point to note is understanding what your "true" lift is. A 3" lift will be different depending on how much weight is on your truck. Mine turned out to be exactly 3" above stock height but I have an ARB with winch and twin batteries and a whole raft of stuff on the back.

 

[Noahrob]

I took the cash I was going to spend on a new front driveshaft and bought a part time kit...I live in SoCal, all wheel drive isn’t needed. I had the casror bushings and they weren’t enough, but too much with the Slee plates, so went back to stock..still some vibration, but not for long

 

[Beej]

Anytime you are altering the front axle for caster it's critical consider resulting drive line angles and other component alignments or misalignment from the change.

There is a zone between 3 and 4 " that if caster in corrected the theoretically ideal caster amount of 3*, you with have some harmonic vibrations that neither type of drive shaft will compensate for and the only "solution?" Is to part time the truck.

Using my 2.5" caster plates on a 3" lift provides an end result of 2* of caster for this very reason.

I've already had a customer swap out another set of plates for mine which did eliminate the vibrations and the expense of a DC shaft, which I felt wouldnt have help in his situation.

Influencing caster and getting the desired end result isn't all that hard. Addressing the myriad of other potential issues while doing so is the challenge

How is this measured? How does one know how much castor they've got or if it needs correction?

I have the landtank plates but I'm about to go up from a 2 inch to 3 inch lift. Read in the thread that landtank plates will accommodate this but want to be able to measure and know for sure.

Truck weighs 6500 lbs so more than 3 inch is unlikely to result.

 

[landtank]

How is this measured? How does one know how much castor they've got or if it needs correction?

I have the landtank plates but I'm about to go up from a 2 inch to 3 inch lift. Read in the thread that landtank plates will accommodate this but want to be able to measure and know for sure.

Truck weighs 6500 lbs so more than 3 inch is unlikely to result.

If you remember you were the first guinea pig of the beta version of the plates and when caster was measured you fell short of ideal. Subsequently I added more rotation to make that difference up. So if you go up to a measured 3" of lift you will be under 2*. Your's are the only landtank 2.5" plates that are like this.

 

[Beej]

If you remember you were the first guinea pig of the beta version of the plates and when caster was measured you fell short of ideal. Subsequently I added more rotation to make that difference up. So if you go up to a measured 3" of lift you will be under 2*. Your's are the only landtank 2.5" plates that are like this.

I do remember; that was a good day. And, that's how come I want to measure again when the new springs are in, if I'm outside of spec (which is fairly likely), I'll have to give up my prototype for the final product. My current springs can't take the weight so a change was needed.

I remember you using a tool for this but now what or how.

@landtank I guess the real question would be, since I already installed a pair, will the hole that's already drilled prevent me from installing another pair?

 

[bushdoctor]

I'm guessing I was that customer and I can confirm that my drive line vibes were corrected with the @landtank plates. Previously I had fitted the ToughDog plates which although rated at 5° gave a little bit more. This extra put me in the upper end for castor but also knocked off my pinion angles so neither my stock shaft or a DC shaft would work. Rick's plates are 4 point something degrees which was enough to allow my pinon to come back in alignment without the need of a DC. I had my castor measured by the shop at 2.2°. A little on the low side but in spec. No vibes, no death wobble and not to frisky on the highway.
One point to note is understanding what your "true" lift is. A 3" lift will be different depending on how much weight is on your truck. Mine turned out to be exactly 3" above stock height but I have an ARB with winch and twin batteries and a whole raft of stuff on the back.

What springs were you running at the time you showed a 3" lift?

 

[Blade 80LC]

What about the MetalTech plates? Metal Tech FJ80 Land Cruiser Caster Correction Plates The description on their site says "These plates are designed to give 3.5* of caster correction for a 4" suspension lift." I wonder if they're saying the plates correct 3.5 degrees, or if they mean you should have 3.5 degrees of caster using their plates on a 4" lift. ...because 3.5 degrees of correction sounds more like what you'd want for a 2" lift.

 

[sunrk]

How does one know how much castor they've got or if it needs correction?

By a wheel/steering alignment report. Factory spec for caster on 8/92-up 80's is +3 deg, but for earlier build 80's it's something like +1.9 degrees. Caster correction alone doesn't cure all steering problems. Toe-in/out also needs to be checked any time suspension is changed, or when new bushes are fitted to radius arms, etc. Camber is rarely if ever needing any correction.

There's a mathematical way to work it out, but every inch of added lift reduces caster by 1.5 to 1.8 deg. So if you have a pre-8/92 80 like mine you have to add more caster correction for the same amount of lift.