Caster Correction bushings - experince and notes (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 6, 2008
Threads
143
Messages
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Location
Calgary, Alberta - Canada
Just finished installing a set of Slee CC bushings and thought of sharing some my thoughts with other members.
I also installed two new OEM control (leading) arm rear bushings (frame side) and a set of two OEM bushings for the lateral arm (aka. Panhard)

First of all, safety is a prime concern to me and I am sure the same goes for forum members. The reason I am saying that is I found pressing some 15-20 years old bushings using a shop press is a very risky business. So many things can go wrong and some nasty injuries can happen, specially if an average run-of-the mill press is used (read: Harbor Freight or Princess Auto up here).
I have used a PA 12-ton press and taken every precaution but two of the bolts holding the press together have sheared under the extreme force. Luckily I was not hurt ( I was standing a safe distance away) and none of the other vehicles in my garage was damaged. The head of one bolt flew and struck the wall. I never found the other bolt head. I then found they are using cheap, grade 5 bolts. Which I replaced with grade 8 as soon as that happened.

The bushings are usually there for a VERY long time, so removing them with a press takes tremendous force. Instead, a safer, yet quick, method is to press the middle metal tube with the rubber out (the rubber will always give before anything else). Now you have a nice opening in the bushing to use a hacksaw (or reciprocating saw) to make two relief cuts (side-by-side, about 1/4" apart) into the bushing metal housing, being careful not to cut the arm around the bushing. The bushing metal is usually very soft and doesn't take too much time or effort to cut.
Now, with a chisel or a round punch, remove the sliver of metal between the two cuts to make small channel. Now the remains of the bushing will just slide out. See pictures below.

Secondly, do yourself a favour and get Landtank's template (I did!). Worth every penny and takes any guess work out of the process. In my opinion, it is another safety advantage because it eliminates the need for any trial-and-error test fits. i.e. unnecessary removal/installation cycles.

Another point is torquing the nuts when done. I can see that applying 127 ft.lbs under the vehicle can be awkward in some areas. For some bolts, I used my body against the tires as leverage, but in other bolts I couldn't, so I used a small floor jack to lift the torque wrench up (several times) until it clicked.

One last thing, I noticed the FSM seems wrong in specifying which side to torque. The correct way:
- On the frame side, you torque the nut (bolt is locking type)
- On the axle side you torque the bolt (nut is locking type).
As you can see, the second picture (below) of the FSM is wrong knowing that all bolts are installed on the outside.

I tried the truck after the installation and it made a big difference in handling, no more wandering or following ruts in the road. Just feels nice and tight. Also the drive shaft angle is now inline (was too high before).

By the way, almost all the bushings I took out were in great shape. I was really amazed given their age (22 years now!). i would have left them there if I didn't already buy news ones so I said might as well change them.

Sorry for the long post. I know the process is well documented on the forum and online, but I thought some safety reminders can never hurt.
2012-06-24-362.jpg
2012-06-24-363.jpg
Manual.jpg
 
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Good tip for those who don't have a press! I use an old 50 ton Dake shop press for removing/installing bushings which is nothing for this size press. But the noise it makes when these bushings finally move still gets my attention!
 
I used a 20 ton press and it still took alot to get the old ones out. I would get a larger torque wrench. Mine from Home Depot goes up to #300 pounds and has a 2 foot long handle. That means #65 of force on the handle for #130 at the bolt.

Sounds like it was worth all the trouble for you. I know it helped my handling too. :clap:
 
How can I tell if my truck has CC with out removing leading arms? The front bushings are yellow. Maybe some measurements?
 
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My OME CC bushings are yellow - installed 9.5 yrs ago and still solid. BigMac
 
How can I tell if my truck has CC with out removing leading arms? The front bushings are yellow. Maybe some measurements?

Stock bushings are black rubber, so if yours are yellow you have something aftermarket for sure. Now to figure out what...

Have you had an alignment, and was everything in spec?
 
Not yet. Just bought my first LC with an OME lift and some other cool things. The tires need balancing and need to investigate why the front tires are wearing inboard...I found the receipt where PO bought tires and there was labor charged for installing bushings. Got to be the CC ones, I hope. Probably should have introduced myself a little better. Found an FZJ-80
with 133k on ODO. No lockers, but ARB bumper, lift, sliders, custom rear bumper with swingout, and custom drawers in rear. Plan is to do some PM and install Aussie locker in rear. I'm pumped!
 
Old thread, but quick question: if I'm taking the front controls arms off to install caster correction bushings, should I change out the rear, single, bushing with an OEM bushing also? I don't have a press, so going to take them to a shop, but want to have all the bushings ready if needed.

(I realize the answer may be, change it if it needs to be changed)
 
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Old thread, but quick question: if I'm taking the front controls arms off to install caster correction bushings, should I change out the rear, single, bushing with an OEM bushing also? I don't have a press, so going to take them to a shop, but want to have all the bushings ready if needed.

(I realize the answer may be, change it if it needs to be changed)
Would 100% recommend it if you don't know when it was changed last.
 
I found that using the Wits' End press tools took most the excitement out of pressing suspension bushings. Using random sockets was a different story. I'm sure those in the rust belt have a different experience than us in the west.

 
Using a run of the mill tool shop press is not the issue - I have a cheap 12 tonne press and use it often. I've done radius arm bushes quite a few times. That wits-end press tool kit is good (just watch the biggest one as I found it jams in the holes on the arms). I've also got a big kit of press tools that I use for other jobs both landcruiser and for my cars.

If you use proper methods, setup and precautions you can do the job. Do NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT under any circumstances support/hold a radius arm while at the same time trying to press old bushes out or new ones in!

You MUST use a fixed support so the arm is held level and flat so that full attention can be put on positioning of plates, and pressing tools so everything is in-line as much as possible. Most of the time the big toyota bolts are fine to re-use. Just ensure when re-fitting that you cover the shafts with anti-sieze, and the threads for the big nuts, and torque the nuts slightly lower (25 pct) than FSM spec if you do lube the threads (as per standard engineering recommendations for lubricated threads).
 
My OME CC bushings are yellow - installed 9.5 yrs ago and still solid. BigMac

Then they are poly bushes which means no outer steel sleeve (?). Standard bushes are steel sleeve, formed rubber, and inner steel tube. Never ever use poly bushes for any situation where flexing in more than one plane/axis is required.
 
Old thread, but quick question: if I'm taking the front controls arms off to install caster correction bushings, should I change out the rear, single, bushing with an OEM bushing also? I don't have a press, so going to take them to a shop, but want to have all the bushings ready if needed.

(I realize the answer may be, change it if it needs to be changed)
Yes, replace all three bushings in each arm.
 
Does anyone have pictures of the proper way to press bushings. I've been thinking if splashing the cash for the bushing press sets, but i just can't imagine how it works. It needs to be supports kn both sides right? And someone says not to hold the radius arm, but what do you do, stack some wood on a saw horse on the other side?
 
Does anyone have pictures of the proper way to press bushings. I've been thinking if splashing the cash for the bushing press sets, but i just can't imagine how it works. It needs to be supports kn both sides right? And someone says not to hold the radius arm, but what do you do, stack some wood on a saw horse on the other side?

Most presses will come with the arbor plates that allow you to position them to allow the bushing to pass through. An adjustable saw horse would be helpful with any of the suspension arms. I was a bad boy and just held mine.

 
The trouble is with holding the arms that you are trying to operate the ram, watch what the tooling is doing, and at the same time hold the arm being worked on steady and level. It is possible, but I do not want to accept that level of risk personally. A sawhorse is great as a starting point. Various bits of wood to get the right level help too. If the arm moves a little out of position, or the tooling slips, it can be dangerous. Never do the job without eye protection. Same as with stuff like grinding, or drilling, or using tie-rod/ball-joint tools.
 
My press is 35 ton air over hydraulic, and when I do these types of bushings I line everything up at low pressure and then stand around the corner with the control in my hand and give it the beans lol. Its not a game sometimes when they let go, and Im glad when Im 10 feet away operating the press.
 

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