Just finished installing a set of Slee CC bushings and thought of sharing some my thoughts with other members.
I also installed two new OEM control (leading) arm rear bushings (frame side) and a set of two OEM bushings for the lateral arm (aka. Panhard)
First of all, safety is a prime concern to me and I am sure the same goes for forum members. The reason I am saying that is I found pressing some 15-20 years old bushings using a shop press is a very risky business. So many things can go wrong and some nasty injuries can happen, specially if an average run-of-the mill press is used (read: Harbor Freight or Princess Auto up here).
I have used a PA 12-ton press and taken every precaution but two of the bolts holding the press together have sheared under the extreme force. Luckily I was not hurt ( I was standing a safe distance away) and none of the other vehicles in my garage was damaged. The head of one bolt flew and struck the wall. I never found the other bolt head. I then found they are using cheap, grade 5 bolts. Which I replaced with grade 8 as soon as that happened.
The bushings are usually there for a VERY long time, so removing them with a press takes tremendous force. Instead, a safer, yet quick, method is to press the middle metal tube with the rubber out (the rubber will always give before anything else). Now you have a nice opening in the bushing to use a hacksaw (or reciprocating saw) to make two relief cuts (side-by-side, about 1/4" apart) into the bushing metal housing, being careful not to cut the arm around the bushing. The bushing metal is usually very soft and doesn't take too much time or effort to cut.
Now, with a chisel or a round punch, remove the sliver of metal between the two cuts to make small channel. Now the remains of the bushing will just slide out. See pictures below.
Secondly, do yourself a favour and get Landtank's template (I did!). Worth every penny and takes any guess work out of the process. In my opinion, it is another safety advantage because it eliminates the need for any trial-and-error test fits. i.e. unnecessary removal/installation cycles.
Another point is torquing the nuts when done. I can see that applying 127 ft.lbs under the vehicle can be awkward in some areas. For some bolts, I used my body against the tires as leverage, but in other bolts I couldn't, so I used a small floor jack to lift the torque wrench up (several times) until it clicked.
One last thing, I noticed the FSM seems wrong in specifying which side to torque. The correct way:
- On the frame side, you torque the nut (bolt is locking type)
- On the axle side you torque the bolt (nut is locking type).
As you can see, the second picture (below) of the FSM is wrong knowing that all bolts are installed on the outside.
I tried the truck after the installation and it made a big difference in handling, no more wandering or following ruts in the road. Just feels nice and tight. Also the drive shaft angle is now inline (was too high before).
By the way, almost all the bushings I took out were in great shape. I was really amazed given their age (22 years now!). i would have left them there if I didn't already buy news ones so I said might as well change them.
Sorry for the long post. I know the process is well documented on the forum and online, but I thought some safety reminders can never hurt.
I also installed two new OEM control (leading) arm rear bushings (frame side) and a set of two OEM bushings for the lateral arm (aka. Panhard)
First of all, safety is a prime concern to me and I am sure the same goes for forum members. The reason I am saying that is I found pressing some 15-20 years old bushings using a shop press is a very risky business. So many things can go wrong and some nasty injuries can happen, specially if an average run-of-the mill press is used (read: Harbor Freight or Princess Auto up here).
I have used a PA 12-ton press and taken every precaution but two of the bolts holding the press together have sheared under the extreme force. Luckily I was not hurt ( I was standing a safe distance away) and none of the other vehicles in my garage was damaged. The head of one bolt flew and struck the wall. I never found the other bolt head. I then found they are using cheap, grade 5 bolts. Which I replaced with grade 8 as soon as that happened.
The bushings are usually there for a VERY long time, so removing them with a press takes tremendous force. Instead, a safer, yet quick, method is to press the middle metal tube with the rubber out (the rubber will always give before anything else). Now you have a nice opening in the bushing to use a hacksaw (or reciprocating saw) to make two relief cuts (side-by-side, about 1/4" apart) into the bushing metal housing, being careful not to cut the arm around the bushing. The bushing metal is usually very soft and doesn't take too much time or effort to cut.
Now, with a chisel or a round punch, remove the sliver of metal between the two cuts to make small channel. Now the remains of the bushing will just slide out. See pictures below.
Secondly, do yourself a favour and get Landtank's template (I did!). Worth every penny and takes any guess work out of the process. In my opinion, it is another safety advantage because it eliminates the need for any trial-and-error test fits. i.e. unnecessary removal/installation cycles.
Another point is torquing the nuts when done. I can see that applying 127 ft.lbs under the vehicle can be awkward in some areas. For some bolts, I used my body against the tires as leverage, but in other bolts I couldn't, so I used a small floor jack to lift the torque wrench up (several times) until it clicked.
One last thing, I noticed the FSM seems wrong in specifying which side to torque. The correct way:
- On the frame side, you torque the nut (bolt is locking type)
- On the axle side you torque the bolt (nut is locking type).
As you can see, the second picture (below) of the FSM is wrong knowing that all bolts are installed on the outside.
I tried the truck after the installation and it made a big difference in handling, no more wandering or following ruts in the road. Just feels nice and tight. Also the drive shaft angle is now inline (was too high before).
By the way, almost all the bushings I took out were in great shape. I was really amazed given their age (22 years now!). i would have left them there if I didn't already buy news ones so I said might as well change them.
Sorry for the long post. I know the process is well documented on the forum and online, but I thought some safety reminders can never hurt.
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