In hopes of saving time, does anyone have any pointers as to how to tackle removing the plastic cladding and trim from the cargo area? My reasoning is to remove the rear seatbelts as well as hunt down a leak. Thanks so much.
Cargo area trim removal
- Thread starter LX450inNash
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Just grab one corner and gently pull towards you. It's only plastic clips holding it in. I've had my cargo interior pieces off many many times.
Remove the full width stainless piece across the back floor first.
I start in the lower corner like NLX and gently pop each one loose. It helps to get your hand behind and close to the clip and pop it loose. It always works better on a warm day so the plastic isn't so hard.
Lots of threads on 'mud about the leaks you're hunting. Probably don't even need to pull the trim inside if you fix both the long trim strip and the rear vent leaks. I pulled all my inside panels and then searched 'mud afterwards. At least I know what's behind all that stuff now...
I start in the lower corner like NLX and gently pop each one loose. It helps to get your hand behind and close to the clip and pop it loose. It always works better on a warm day so the plastic isn't so hard.
Lots of threads on 'mud about the leaks you're hunting. Probably don't even need to pull the trim inside if you fix both the long trim strip and the rear vent leaks. I pulled all my inside panels and then searched 'mud afterwards. At least I know what's behind all that stuff now...
NLXTACY
Wits' End
You don't need to remove the stainless steel carpet trims. There is just a short plastic tab that under that trim. You can likely just slide the whole plastic piece out or if you want just loosen one screw on either end. There is not harm in removing the stainless trim but it can stay in place.
Like stated above, its easy to remove the plastic pieces. I'm going through the same thing. I tracked my leaks down to the moulding clips that sit right underneath the rear sliding windows. The foam gaskets lose their ability to keep water out after 18 years I guess. I'm going to order more from CDan but I'll use silicone in the mean time.
- Thread starter
- #7
This is perfect guys. I really appreciate it. Thank you
- Thread starter
- #9
10-4. Thanks
I just got the push pins that hold the rear trim in place.
Here is a pic & part # 67771-12050
Here is a pic & part # 67771-12050
- Thread starter
- #12
Managed to only break 1. And that's only because I was almost done and got in a hurry
I have a bunch of those clips if you need some. I'm over in the Sylvan Park area. -Chad
Not Toyota, but I bought these on Fleabay...$6.38 for 20.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310635566815?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
If you are ever at a pick n pull you can grab the same plastic fasteners from other toyotas. If I get charged at all for them I think they are 10 cents a piece. I break those things all the time when reinstalling the trim. Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
NICE!
I found another aftermarket one that's an exact fit but the plastic is harder. ~$8 for a box of 50.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
those are the same used in door panels .?
Every time I go to Pull-a-Part.
They usually just wave me by, even though I make it a point to show them every single time.
As a footnote, avoid tampering with plastic trim in cold weather. Especially ~20-year-old plastic trim. The warmer things are the better.
I bought those red clips on ebay. They were NOT the same size and would not clip into place on the panels.
Also I had a leak and found the top part of the rear gate harness grommet not seated correctly into the body.
I highly recommend using Vaseline to coat the grommet allowing the oils to soak up and retail a good seal and soften the rubber to last.
Shane
Also I had a leak and found the top part of the rear gate harness grommet not seated correctly into the body.
I highly recommend using Vaseline to coat the grommet allowing the oils to soak up and retail a good seal and soften the rubber to last.
Shane
