Carb issue after reinstalling (California type)

[Mandrew]

*edit* I forgot to mention that this is a 1985 FJ60

I just recently cleaned out my carb thanks to the wonderful videos by Pinhead on YouTube. My truck was not passing smog, and after a mechanic refused to work on my carb until I took care of any potential vacuum issues, I am low on funds for an expert to take care of the carb. However, once I put it all back in, the vehicle starts but revs so high instantly I thought it was going to explode . I tried playing around with the idle screws, but there’s not much of a change, or at least, not much of a change I can notice in the split few seconds it turns on before I get scared and turn it off because of how loud it gets when it revs up.

Any thoughts on where to start? Also could it be something to do with the vacuum hosing, maybe I put something in wrong, the FSM and emissions manual are quite hard to read. I also checked to see if there is something holding the throttle cable down, everything is clear and appears to be in working order.

I’d appreciate some detailed pictures of your engine bay and carb to make sure I have every hose where it’s supposed to go. I’ve gone through soooooo many pictures on this forum, but a majority of you have desmogged rigs, that doesn’t really help me in California.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

Welcome to Mud - first order of business it to let everyone know what year your 60 is. Then post up some photos of your carb and connections so that the Mud brain trust can help diagnose what's wrong. You can't post photos until you have 10 posts but you can use a sharing service (flickr or photobucket) and provide a link.

It's probably something simple and the membership will be more than glad to point it out....

 

[Mandrew]

I’ve been outside in the heat working on this dude today. Totally forgot to mention what vehicle it is, duh. FJ60 1985. I’ll try to get some pics later today after work.

 

[mattressking]

First off, multiple users have links in their sig to the FSM.

Grab the emissions manual and go through the vacuum lines. All of them. Twice.

Dropbox - TOYOTA FSM - Simplify your life
For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

If it is idling very high, then you will need to go through the emissions manual again to set the mixture/idle speed, they are directly related. Make sure you're adjusting the correct screws, there are 4 that can confuse you. Again, emissions manual clearly points them out.

If it STILL idles high. Remove pedal linkage and choke linkage. That will eliminate mis-installation.

Report back.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Just a quick picture to clarify the screws....

Firewall side in close to carb base, Red, Idle Speed (used in conjunction w/ Idle Mix)

Firewall side further outward of linkages, Green, Fast Idle (for setting w/ choke pulled out to about 1800)

Fan side. Yellow, Idle Up (for use w/ AC)

On reverse side of carb facing valve cover.
White, Idle Mix (IM) (in less air to fuel, out more air to fuel)

 

[OSS]

I'm thinking if it's racing like that, a linkage is connected wrong.

 

[DFXR]

I’ve been outside in the heat working on this dude today. Totally forgot to mention what vehicle it is, duh. FJ60 1985. I’ll try to get some pics later today after work.

I recently replaced my intake/exhaust manifold and gasket, and took these pics of the carb beforehand for reference. This is a fully smogged 1985 FJ60 residing in the great state of CA, that was running well (aside from the exhaust leak) with good vacuum (20 hg) at the time of the pics. I put it back together just like this and all is well.

Others will have better advice on what your problem is, but in the meantime you can hopefully compare yours to this setup. Take a good look at the linkage pics and the orientation of the straight rods.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Great photos. His last I marked up. Could be you swapped the orientation of this for the throttle and I believe, it could be causing a racing idle.

 

[Mandrew]

All good stuff gents! I’ve been creeping on this site for a few months for help with my LC. Nothing but very informative peoples. And now I know that you guys are even fast responders! I’ll be home this evening and review the work again in comparison with your builds.

 

[Mandrew]

Great photos. His last I marked up. Could be you swapped the orientation of this for the throttle and I believe, it could be causing a racing idle.

View attachment 1759254

I noticed that larger spring on the linkage, that runs almost parallel with the floor is missing. I’ve seen a few builds without it, I’m just asking to see if there is a preference or how important that is. I mean, it looks like it would definitely help with closing the throttle.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

This one? As I know it, you need that spring. It’s for the throttle return.

 

[cps432]

Great photos. His last I marked up. Could be you swapped the orientation of this for the throttle and I believe, it could be causing a racing idle.

View attachment 1759254

This is attached correctly. I suspect another connection is in the wrong orientation. It's tough to see all the linkage points once it's installed in the truck.

 

[cps432]

Are you sure that everything was moving freely before you installed the carb? It could be a vacuum diaphragm that won't close. My AC idle up sticks when I turn on my ac. I haven't figured out if its the diaphragm or an electronic valve that's gone bad.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

This is attached correctly. I suspect another connection is in the wrong orientation. It's tough to see all the linkage points once it's installed in the truck.

This is not his photo it’s @DFXR. I marked it to show to the OP a possible mix up of his linkage.

 

[FJ40Jim]

My AC idle up sticks when I turn on my ac. I haven't figured out if its the diaphragm or an electronic valve that's gone bad.

Neither.
The VSV has a check valve effect. Reverse the 2 vac hoses at the electric VSV and idle should drop correctly when AC switches off.

 

[cps432]

Neither.
The VSV has a check valve effect. Reverse the 2 vac hoses at the electric VSV and idle should drop correctly when AC switches off.

Wow! Thanks Jim, I've been stumped on that for almost three years! Of course it's that simple...

 

[DFXR]

This one? As I know it, you need that spring. It’s for the throttle return.

View attachment 1759293

You know what's weird? That spring is the same spring/PN as the spring in the hood release latch. But you can't really have one without the other.

If that's missing from the OP's carb base it could cause the throttle to stay open.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You can replace it as close as possible from an Ace hardware or Napa.

 

[joebattle1]

I too have been fighting CA Smog. I've failed the manual test 3 times now. I have done a ton of stuff to pass. I just got my carb back from rebuild. Really hoping that's the final chapter in my saga.

@NeverGiveUpYota & @DFXR, Thank you for the pics and identifying the screws. I'm terrified to put this thing back on and fire it up. Super helpful.

 

[Mandrew]

You know what's weird? That spring is the same spring/PN as the spring in the hood release latch. But you can't really have one without the other.

If that's missing from the OP's carb base it could cause the throttle to stay open.

I’m going going to take that spring from the hood release latch and run to the store to match them.