Bump steer, Torque steer, break steer, generally difficult to point where I want to go. (2 Viewers)

[caladin]

Ping our parts team and they can look into shipping anomalies, it's possible a dimension is off or the e-commerce system only offers XYZ shipping to your zip code. They can always look into it.

We also offer complete OEM or aftermarket tie rod end kits WITH tubes and clamps. Very popular!

Complete Japanese Replacement Steering Linkage Assemblies - Fits 1980-90 6x Series LHD

Steering Linkage Assemblies for Toyota Land Cruiser Applications

cruiserteq.com

Yeah I was tempted, I was going to get it all from you to support goods folks but 56 bucks just seemed oddly high. , so I farmed one part to George at cruiser bros. Cause he's also a super good dude.

Ping our parts team and they can look into shipping anomalies, it's possible a dimension is off or the e-commerce system only offers XYZ shipping to your zip code. They can always look into it.

We also offer complete OEM or aftermarket tie rod end kits WITH tubes and clamps. Very popular!

Complete Japanese Replacement Steering Linkage Assemblies - Fits 1980-90 6x Series LHD

Steering Linkage Assemblies for Toyota Land Cruiser Applications

cruiserteq.com

Out of curiosity, I added the same set, but for right hand drive and the shipping was under $20, I think your data is off.

Sent that data via webform and they updated the data and shipping is now $15ish.

Thanks,

 

[caladin]

I know when I had to pull the pitman arm on my 40, there was a special puller that made the job much easier. Are there a tools like this for tierod ends, etc, or is a pickle fork all you need?

I saw there is a tierod end puller that looks a lot like the pitman puller... that implies a lot of strength is needed here.

tie rod tool

I"m replacing the whole thing, so getting the old end out will probably be, the sticking point.

 

[duncanrm]

I"m replacing the whole thing, so getting the old end out will probably be, the sticking point.

When it comes to tie rod ends - if I dont care about the rubber boot I go straight to a pickle fork and a good sized hammer swung with intention.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

1) If it's pulling under brakes, quite likely you'll need to rebuild the calipers or replace them due to siezed pistons,. Check all soft lines and ensure they're not perished or deteriorated. Check hard-lines for corrosion. It needs a knuckle job, so order a knuckle kit with wheel and trunion bearings and new brake rotors/pads and caliper rebuild kits, as well as any needed brake lines at this point. While you're at it, order new U-Bolts, 4 degree caster shims, longer spring centre bolts, tie rod and drag link (whole thing, not just ends)

2) Once the parts have landed, take the U-Bolts and 4 degree caster shims and longer centre bolts for the springs and install. Make sure you have a grinder with a cutoff wheel, gas torch etc. as these items will usually fight till the last. The easiest way I've found to do this without a hoist is with 2x axle stands and a big trolley jack. Support the front chassis rails on the axle stands and use the jack to lift the axle off the spring.

3) Once this is done and you've got your grease and supplies ready to go, take the truck off the road for a few days. Tear off drag link, tie rod and tear down knuckle assembly. Set up new tie rod and drag link as close in length as you can to current length to get you in the ballpark for alignment. Keep track of the top and bottom shims from the knuckles as you'll need to know what went where.

5) Reassemble everything with new brake rotors, bearings, seals etc. Search the forum for wheel bearing preload instructions as the FSM leaves them too loose, especially if you have big power or large tyres.

6) This should make the truck drive vastly better, I would take to an alignment shop to get a readout so you know where everything is at and the toe-in adjusted correctly.

7) The rear axle probably needs the same attention re. wheel bearings and brakes.

8) If you want the truck to torque steer, time for an engine swap. I doubt the 2F has enough ponies to do this at the moment.


Once we know we're working with a good-condition steering system, it will be much easier to diagnose the need for spring bushings, any remedy to bump steer, etc. If everything is old and tired, it's difficult to know where the issue is actually coming from.

 

[caladin]

I'm waiting for my tie rod removal tool(s) to arrive. (and my u bolts for caster shim)

I went ahead and jacked the truck up, put it on stands, took out the cotter pins, and loosened the castle nuts. (plus lots of penetrating lube).

Aside from not popping apart after a few whacks, all went as well as I can ask. (According to 84 fsm below, i need to go remove link from steeirn damper.)

I painted my tie rod and my relay rod and tie rod. (with paper towels in the threaded bits past the end of the slot).

I'm trying to follow this diagram and pre assemble the parts so that all I need to do when I put the new rods on, is match the # of threads and assemble everything.

but I can't get the rod ends to thread in... unless it's clearly cross-threaded a thread or 3, even that only happens after many failed attempts to screw it in normally.... I back it out, line it parallel on both axis and try again.. and it just spins on the outside of the tube not engauging the threads.

I had the clamp on, and snugged down so they don't fall off, but I loosened them before attempting assembly.

should I be surprised they don't screw in easily, then get harder like a bolt?

Should I be surprised they don't screw in at all?

Did I squeeze the ends together with the clamp and now need to open the slot carefully with a flat-head screwdriver before assembly?

or am I doing something wrong?

I've only attempted the top shorter rod. I tried both ends on both ends of the rod.

One end has a groove around it about an inch back, I'm assuming that's to mark the right and left handed threads,
but should it be on the driver's side or passenger side of the car?

I'm following this diagram to determine what goes where:

Any assistance is greatly appreciated. I'm currently quite confused...

I have not checked the physical copy I have of the fsm, but i'm checking my digital copy of the 84 fsm, which should be identical.
(I checked steering section SR 72)
(Link of it on my google drive stash)


One more question, FSM says to apply moly grease to ends, I was planning to apply anti seize.. do I need moly grease instead?

Thanks,

 

[duncanrm]

One side of the rod will have a left hand thread. I use anti-seize.

 

[caladin]

With fresh morning eyes it all screws together just fine. Guess I was more worn out from Texas heat than I thought.

Thanks!

 

[Tennessee80]

With fresh morning eyes it all screws together just fine. Guess I was more worn out from Texas heat than I thought.

Thanks!

Another tip is to find some local mud guys to wrench with. I’ve learned so much about cruisers just hanging around guys that have been wrenching on rigs a long time.

Plus, it’s the community here (virtually and in person) that really makes it all happen!

 

[caladin]

Thanks, I went to cruisers and coffee back when I first got my FJ40, about 10 years ago.
But small talk with strangers isn't really my sweet spot, personality, I'm a programmer not a salesman

I ordered a steering stabilizer, so that's missing, but the rest went together as expected except for one thing,

One of the castle bolts turned way more times than expected before the torque wrench clicked at me. and now the crown bolt is super low.
The cotter pin is just barely touching the top of the crenelations.

is this normal?

I was concerned enough that I took it apart to make sure it wasn't stripping out the threads because it just kept turning and turning, not getting torqued forever.
(Also I think I'm officially upgrading away from a harbor freight torque wrench, not worth the worry! )

The rest look like the ones I pulled off, once you offset for my skill level.
Need to paint my ends once it's roughly aligned. and add the new stabilizer (which was probably a waste, but I was in there, might as well do it.)

And this part is finished.

Update for those who follow, apparently this is common and means you have a worn seat for the bolt In this case pitman arm. Since the pin is engaged, I can run it as it is, or use a washer to shim up the bolt to a standard point on the conical bolt.