Building my 1984 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Threads
24
Messages
103
Location
Houston
Well I started on her tonight. I bought this one in December and because I was moving just haven't had time to really tear into it.

But lately I bought a Con-Ferr roof rack I found on Craig's List for $125 and I took that apart to go to the powder coaters. I also sale nuts and bolts a lot so I called my mfg and ordered some stainless steel bolts to replace the galvenized ones that were rusting on the rack. It will be finished off with a plywood floor that has been sanded and painted black with lights. I am also a very good customer of a powder coater and he has said he is going to "take care of me" on the powder coating I need done. Basically if it's metal it's getting powder coated.

Next I found a lightly used Warn M8000 that a friend had just sitting around ($400). The winch went on tonight but I haven't done the wiring yet because I'm waiting on an in cab switch from the 12voltguy.com. The bumper is some home made thing that who knows who made years ago. It will come off eventually but for now it will do. My first priority since the 60 runs good is the interior.

I have decided that I want to spray in bed liner the floor and wheel wells. Tonight I got after it and pulled out the rear carpet, the rear seat, both side panels, those wheel well covers, all the interior panels in the rear including the tailgate, and the rear seat belts. In the front all I got to was the CB that the previous owner had installed and the factory center console. Now somewhere along the line the back was stripped of that black tar stuff (or it never had it) but it's still in the front. Since I am going the spray in route should I even bother taking it out of the truck? I will have to take my grinder to the back a little because when they installed some aftermarket carpet before they used sound deadening material and glued it to the floor. It comes up pretty easy with just a gasket remover but the grinder and wheel brush will make very short work of it. If the tar should come out I have checked and the Randall's across the street does sale dry ice and I will try this method first.

It was dark when I finished so no pictures tonight. I have attached a picture though of the truck as I got it on day one.

cruiser.jpg


ranch.jpg


A short list of the things I plan on doing:

- Re-do interior and spray in bedliner the floor.

- Pull the body and have the frame hot dipped galvenized and then powder coated. While the frame is off having that done I plan on POR-15 coating the underside of the body.

- Rebuild the axles and install ARB lockers front and rear.

- Install extended range fuel tank.

- Install 3-4" lift kit. I haven't decided on a mfg for sure yet.

- Re-paint the original powder blue color.

- Front and rear bumpers. With the winch already mentioned on the front. Tire carrier and fuel can carrier on the rear.

- Lights a-plenty!

- Install an H55 tranny.

- Have the motor gone over by Javier's Auto here in Houston and have him make it run a little stronger than normal.

That should be enough for now.... :cheers:
 
Keep you eyes peeled for me guys, I'm in H-town... and would LOVE to have a 60 that clean.

IF ya don't mind me asking, what did ya give for her? (PM is fine)
 
The interior is completely stripped out except for the gear shifters. Since I never heard back any negative coments about spaying in bed liner over the factory sound deadner I am probably going that route. How are you guys getting that cotton junk off the floor? I thought about just trying Simple Green and a really stuff brush. If that doesn't work I guess I can always use my grinder and a wire wheel.

The cargo area side panels were pretty worn out from stuff hitting them so those cam out. One of them is actually still good and the other can be repaired. Those will go up for sale soon. I emailed Kevin over at Wagon Gear and he is making me some new side panles and a tailgate storage unit. I'm not sure I'm going to have the spray in done before or after those get here. Suggestions?

The rear seat heater hoses are pretty well stuck on the connectors so I'm having trouble getting that out. I'm actually thinking about just cutting them and then buying some new hose and clamps at NAPA to replace them. How much fluid should I expect to lose doing so?

In the next few months I have to also instal a stereo and repalce the dash, the rear passenger door panel, the drivers seat cover and bottom rear seat cover as well. My best friend makes motorcycle seats and he said he is going to re-do all the foam for the cost of material. So that should prove nice and comfy. I'm thinking about going with something nice and dense.

Work won't let me access photo bucket otherwise I would post pictures now. I have 6-7 good ones that I will post at about 5 pm Houston time!

:cheers:
 
Welcome to the board! You certainly are not shy about getting down to the work. What you have outlined for your build-up has taken most of us years and we still are not done with it. I would leave the tar; it ain't going anywhere. Do you plan on putting carpet or vinyl back in over the bedliner?
If you cannot get those two 90 degree rubber hoses off the rear heater, you might try a expanded slip joint plier. Word of caution, the copper tubes are really soft and you will flatten them in a heartbeat if you squeeze too hard. I originally replaced them with something that "seemed to work" from a local parts store. However, the toyota hoses are not exactly the same size as parts store stuff and their hoses started leaking eventually. Recently went with hoses from Cruiser Dan (800-432-6668). Hoses were $13.67 each plus shipping. When you pull the hoses, a LOT of coolant will fall. Also, when you refill, it will take some doing to get all the air out. Park it on a hill to burp it. I have found that it is easier to refill into the top radiator hose than try to put coolant in the radiator cap opening.
In regard to POR-15 on the underside of the body, good stuff but I hate it. Too many steps and I have not seen POR-15 hold up well against gravel chips. Have you considered Rust Bullet and then cover that with bedliner? Something cheap like Herculiner? I did my wheel wells with that and it is holding up to daily gravel driving.
If you go H55, you will want to re-gear if you go larger tires. It would be OK with stock tires but a waste of money with say 33s.
Love the light blue color!
 
One more thing. Since you have a buddy who does powder coating, take a look in the For Sale section for the thread about powder coating the hubs. Way cool!
 
Welcome to the board! You certainly are not shy about getting down to the work. What you have outlined for your build-up has taken most of us years and we still are not done with it. I would leave the tar; it ain't going anywhere. Do you plan on putting carpet or vinyl back in over the bedliner?
If you cannot get those two 90 degree rubber hoses off the rear heater, you might try a expanded slip joint plier. Word of caution, the copper tubes are really soft and you will flatten them in a heartbeat if you squeeze too hard. I originally replaced them with something that "seemed to work" from a local parts store. However, the toyota hoses are not exactly the same size as parts store stuff and their hoses started leaking eventually. Recently went with hoses from Cruiser Dan (800-432-6668). Hoses were $13.67 each plus shipping. When you pull the hoses, a LOT of coolant will fall. Also, when you refill, it will take some doing to get all the air out. Park it on a hill to burp it. I have found that it is easier to refill into the top radiator hose than try to put coolant in the radiator cap opening.
In regard to POR-15 on the underside of the body, good stuff but I hate it. Too many steps and I have not seen POR-15 hold up well against gravel chips. Have you considered Rust Bullet and then cover that with bedliner? Something cheap like Herculiner? I did my wheel wells with that and it is holding up to daily gravel driving.
If you go H55, you will want to re-gear if you go larger tires. It would be OK with stock tires but a waste of money with say 33s.
Love the light blue color!

I'm alost to the point of just removing that rear heater all together! I'm going to see if I can get some 1/2" plugs and slip them in as soon as I pull the hoses. I'll probably have some clamps ready to go as well. The other night when I was trying to pull it out from the top I think I may have bent the little copper tubing going in. If that's the case I will either fix it or just sell it for parts or give it away.

What gears do you guys suggest for 33" tires? 4:10? I was planning on running a 33 x 10.5 on a 15 x 8 rim. I hate to lose the original sotckers though. I will probably go with a American Eagle aluminum bullet hole rim that is powder coated black.

As far as the floor I'm probably not going to put carpet back over it. If the noise is really bad I may do something on down the road though.

I haven't talked to the spray in guys about doing the underside but I will ask. I can see them charging a lot for that one!

Any suggestions on getting that brown cotton like stuff off the floor? :beer:
 
Well I got the interior out of the truck except for the rear heater. Rear cargo panels and tailgate mod from Kevin over at Wagon Gear should be along in a month or two. I took all the metal parts out of the interior and got them powder coated along with the roof rack. After trapper50 cal posted some pics for me I was able to rack on the truck. Not only has it been powder coated but also I replaced all the bolts, nuts, and washers with stainless steel. I did so because the zinc plated ones that were on there from the PO were almost all rusted out. My camera is charging and I snapped this one last night with my phone.
IMG00363.jpg
 
I have run BFG 33-10.5s on the stock rims many times on many BJ60s. It is not a problem. Lots of guys run 31-10.5s on them, and of course, with the 33s there is more sidewall to work with so it is even easier. I am still pissed BFG discontinued the 33-9.50 MT though. I drove a 60 to central america and back on those. Awesome all around!

Edit... Doesn't swamper make a 34-9.50? If you want to go mud tire that would be awesome, no???
 
Interco makes a TSL S.S. 34x9.50/15 or the LTB 34x10.50/15 which only measures to ~33.5"

For the cotton stuff I just pulled my front carpet out and got a wire brush and got is all off, mine was mostly stuck to the sound deadening material.

Who is doing your interior bedliner? I am starting the same process interior wise, and I am curious as how much it is going to cost me to do it, still debating to get tan bedliner or black...

Nice rack too!
 
joseywhales- best name ever.

34x10.5 LTB fits on my stock rims nicely, I run a 1.5" spacer just to push them out a little.
 
1" body, 2" lift shackle in front, 1" shackle in rear plus a 1" add a leaf. I don't have recent pics up but they clear and flex with no problem, mounting new shocks and pulling sway bars this weekend, will post pics on build thread.
 
I really like the color. Although, I am a little bias to Carolina blue. ;)
 
I run 33x10.5 on stock rims with original gearing and it gets down road just fine. I wouldn't swap the gears until you are ready to put the locker in :)
 

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