BucFL LC100 Build (1 Viewer)

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I hope you have better luck with those Kenda's than I have seen on others rigs.
 
Bad tire composition, couldn't ever get them balanced well, causing drivability problems. @SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr talks about some of the issues he had over on ExPo: The Restoration And Build Thread For My 1992 FJ80 - Page 18 - Expedition Portal

His plus a few other testimonies that I've heard recently is enough to keep me away from Kenda for life.

I can't recommend not going with the Kendas enough.

The Kenda's are hit and miss. I've had great experience with their mountain bike tires, so I figured I would give them a shot when I went to 35s. This was when they were really new and there weren't many reviews out there if any.

My first set rode great; however, they started cracking in between the tread blocks with less than 15k miles. I got a warranty replacement set put on a day before leaving for a 2400 trip to Moab and Colorado. The new tires ride like complete crap. A bias ply might honestly ride better. They violently shook at any speeds greater than 50-55mph and still do even after adding another half pound of balancing BBs. This new set also seems very twitchy and they wander around a lot. I can't wait for these tires to crap so I can switch into something else.

I used to be able to take my hands off the steering wheel and the truck tracked smoothly and dead straight at 70. Now I'm driving with both hands on the wheel 90% of the time just because they vibrate so much and this set also wants to pull to the left.
 
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any new observations on the kenda's
second thoughts?
would you purchase again?
 
I have only had them for a few days so I can't comment on longevity or if I will run into future problems.

First problem was right after mounting I took them for a drive and they wondered to the right. I swapped the front tires around and the problem seems to have gone away. I cannot comment if this problem will return after a tire rotation.

This is an honest review. I took a chance based on the reviews online. The tires are cheap on pricing. Only time will tell how they turn out. But, I will be clear. If my ride was not a DD and I used it as my expo/trail ride, I would not think twice about this tire.

This decision was based on price. I wanted to try a mud tire since I never had one. But I didn't want to spend $1100 either. I'm worried that they may develope some other problems in the future, but for now I can't wait to play with them.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Those tires look great on your rig. the 285s fill out the wheel wells nicely.

Tires are a thing of personal preference. You will get love and hate stores from all sides if you ask. If they make noise, maybe you will avoid hitting a deer? :) If nothing else, more people will hear you coming and see what a real truck looks like. :clap:

I saw that you mentioned that your BFG KOs were quiet. I have KP2s on my 2004 100 series and they are very quiet. However, they grip like crazy and have been great. Truly, I LOVE them because they work as a daily driver and grip like crazy.

I got my KO2s for only $750 from Kauffman Tire (You have them in Tampa) because I had a $200 credit, but I recommend Discount Tire if you have them around - they are the unquestioned leader in pricing and customer service.
 
That was a hella deal on those KO's. Were they 285's? Wish i new sooner. Was that a rebate credit?
 
That was a hella deal on those KO's. Were they 285's? Wish i new sooner. Was that a rebate credit?
I don't remember the exact details, but "out the door" was a touch higher with tax and install, I think like almost $900. However, this was like $500 lower then those tires run.

What happened was that I bought snow chains because my wife was pregnant and due early spring. it snowed, and while I was merely trying to get to work, the chains they sold me were the wrong size. I was QUITE upset about it, and had given them the third degree as to what COULD have happened if my wife had been in labor. The manager had told me he would "give me a deal" next time and since I ended up like $500 less then expected, I think he delivered.

On another note, although the KO2s are rated for ice and snow (they count as snow chains if required), I bought heavy-duty chains and the extra heavy tensioners for all 4 tires at Wal Mart this past winter. I live on a mountain in Western NC and things can get quite dicy in the winter. Although they are still in the box, I wonder how much additional traction they might offer in comparison to KO2s alone?
 
Today i replaced the radiator. The old one sprung a leak when one of the heater T's blew. Thanks to the advice of this board for helping me locate the engine block drain screws. This is a :banana::banana: job. I wont go into how long it will take cuz it took me 4 hrs or more. But I went at a pretty leisure pace and took my time.

Cant seem to remove that last pic. Ill need to upgrade my account to post more pics. In all it took 3 1/4 gallons to replace the coolant. The reservoir was full but i noticed after going for a drive it went a an inch or so. It burpped itself fine i didnt have to do anything special like put it on an incline. I used Zerex Asian 50/50 formula specifically designed for our vehicles. It has a 150k mile life but ill swap it next timing belt.



This is what i did:
1.Tools; 10mm and 12mm sockets, 12" or longer extension or combination of extensions will work best.
2.Drain all coolant and remove hoses.
3.Remove reservoir tank. Its okay to leave the fan shroud in. To remove radiator just remove these 12mm screws. Dont worry about the hoses they wont be in the way. In another pic i show the battery removed.
View attachment 1231622



4.I think this is the passenger side engine block drain. 10mm. I tried using a hose but its still a mess. Watch your eyes.
View attachment 1231623



5. This is driver side plug. 10mm socket and not very tight, so dont over do it.
View attachment 1231624

View attachment 1231629

I flushed my radiator but when i opened the engine block drain plugs nothing came out. I used a 10mm socket and took the screw completely out but nothing came out. I also do not have the drain tubes that are attached to your engine block drain plugs go figure. None the less I just drained the radiator and filled with distilled water three times, before filling with 50/50 asian mix. Thanks for the Pictures.
 
No problem. Im glad i was able to do my part in helping another member. I cut those tubes from extra i had laying around. :)
 
Repacked CV's today. :banana::banana: banana job. Pictures are worth a thousand words. They were probably never done. This is my method as i didn't want to dismantle anything. I will need to go back and do the outer another day. I think is a great alternative for us that dont have the time or tools to do a complete removal. I did this i under three hours with a lunch break and kids. The second side actually took me less than 45 minutes. :)
No new boots needed as mine were in great shape.

Used:
Red Line 80401 CV-2 Synthetic Grease - 14 oz. [1 per side]
@pfran42 CV clamp kit
Purple Power degreaser
Compressed air [air compressor]
Plenty of shop towels
Oil pan
Flat head screw driver


Use a flat head to pry the clips off the clamps. Looked really bad in there. Surprised they lasted this long without any bearing problems.
IMG_0660.JPG



I used Purple Power non diluted in a spray bottle and air from air compressor to blow the gunk out. Repeated until is was nice and clean. I also dried it with air prior to packing grease. After cleaning, nice and dry.
IMG_0661.JPG




Used a whole 14 oz. can of Red Line. I packed the bearings as much as i could and fill the boot with the rest. Not sure if thats too much or not.
IMG_0662.JPG




Learned this trick in NAM... Use the jack to level the axle and the boot will pop right into place with no fuss. I did the top first, clamped it down and the bottom popped into the groove easily. All done!
IMG_0664.JPG
 
Used a whole 14 oz. can of Red Line. I packed the bearings as much as i could and fill the boot with the rest. Not sure if thats too much or not.

How do you pack those grease in? Just with your hands? Do you notice any changes, like if the car now ride smoother?

Thanks for the pictures. I have a tube of Red Line waiting in the garage for me to do this also.
 
Yep, get yourself some gloves and plenty of shop towels, its messy. :)

I didn't notice any change. Good cuz that means i didn't screw anything up. Kinda hard to doing like this since your not removing anything. Obviously, the correct way would be to remove the whole assembly and do a thorough cleaning. But i just dont have the time for that. I felt i did a really good job at getting rid of the old grease by spraying de greaser and using compressed air to push the liquid out. There is very little contamination of old and new grease mixing.

I was happy with the results and im sure i saved a bunch. I still need to do the outer CV's.
 
Repacked CV's today. :banana::banana: banana job. Pictures are worth a thousand words. They were probably never done. This is my method as i didn't want to dismantle anything. I will need to go back and do the outer another day. I think is a great alternative for us that dont have the time or tools to do a complete removal. I did this i under three hours with a lunch break and kids. The second side actually took me less than 45 minutes. :)
No new boots needed as mine were in great shape.

Used:
Red Line 80401 CV-2 Synthetic Grease - 14 oz. [1 per side]
@pfran42 CV clamp kit
Purple Power degreaser
Compressed air [air compressor]
Plenty of shop towels
Oil pan
Flat head screw driver


Use a flat head to pry the clips off the clamps. Looked really bad in there. Surprised they lasted this long without any bearing problems.
View attachment 1294688


I used Purple Power non diluted in a spray bottle and air from air compressor to blow the gunk out. Repeated until is was nice and clean. I also dried it with air prior to packing grease. After cleaning, nice and dry.
View attachment 1294695



Used a whole 14 oz. can of Red Line. I packed the bearings as much as i could and fill the boot with the rest. Not sure if thats too much or not.
View attachment 1294705



Learned this trick in NAM... Use the jack to level the axle and the boot will pop right into place with no fuss. I did the top first, clamped it down and the bottom popped into the groove easily. All done!
View attachment 1294713
Sweet, let us know over the years how it works out.
 
I used to by kenda dirt dog tires for my 4 wheeler back in the late 80's! Nice to see theyre still around.
 
@bucfi How the Denso radiator working out?

BTW: What did it cost and where did you get you ignition key cut?
I ask because I just purchase from and had Lexus Dealer cut for ~$55 all in.
 
@2001LC
Radiator is perfect. Bought it from rock auto and arrived in great shape.

I got the key cut at a Ace Hardware for $5 or less. But it's not a remote key. Is yours a remote key?
 
@2001LC
Radiator is perfect. Bought it from rock auto and arrived in great shape.

I got the key cut at a Ace Hardware for $5 or less. But it's not a remote key. Is yours a remote key?
Yes it is a remote Lexus three button, look like yours only Lexus. Swap out the three button chip after removing glue and replaced battery, works fine. Today I needed one that wasn't going to fall apart. PO poorly glued the only one he had, it wouldn't have made the day without falling apart.

Rock Auto is showing Denso radiator out of stock, what was your cost?
 
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I don't recall. But it was much less than any other store.
 

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