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Laundry List done!

PM completed this week...
1. Lower DS ball joint - 555
2. Outer DS TRE - NAPA

Fluids: Valvoline HP Gear Oil 75-90
Front/Rear Diff
Transfer Case

Valvoline:
Transmission Flush
Power steering
Brake

Replaced both snap rings. The old ones were loose and warped from repeated use. Had to buy 12 and returned the unused ones. Did not know they were stamped with lettering. I never saw it on the old ones...must be something new. I used the ones with 'E' stamped on them.


I originally thought i had a bad seal in rear transfer case so i bought one. But i cleaned it all up, swapped the fuild and havent seen a drop. I think it may have been from the prop shaft grease[?]. Not sure, but i know i dont have a leak. :)

Next year i plan on tackling the rear main seal and crank seal. Ouch! :(

Shout out to @PADDO for verifying correct fluid for transfer case.
 
Laundry List done!

PM completed this week...
1. Lower DS ball joint - 555
2. Outer DS TRE - NAPA

Fluids: Valvoline HP Gear Oil 75-90
Front/Rear Diff
Transfer Case

Valvoline:
Transmission Flush
Power steering
Brake

Replaced both snap rings. The old ones were loose and warped from repeated use. Had to buy 12 and returned the unused ones. Did not know they were stamped with lettering. I never saw it on the old ones...must be something new. I used the ones with 'E' stamped on them.


I originally thought i had a bad seal in rear transfer case so i bought one. But i cleaned it all up, swapped the fuild and havent seen a drop. I think it may have been from the prop shaft grease[?]. Not sure, but i know i dont have a leak. :)

Next year i plan on tackling the rear main seal and crank seal. Ouch! :(

Shout out to @PADDO for verifying correct fluid for transfer case.
I see you mentioned replacing the rear main seal, do you currently have a slow leak and how bad is it? I have a leak originating from what I believe to be the rear main seal and while it's not anything major it will leave about a drop of engine oil on the ground every couple weeks.

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Yep. That’s a rear main seal leak. Mine look the same but not enough to leave a drop yet. The entire tranny has to come out. :(

I took the cover off and cleaned it all with Gunk, but leak came back. Will be letting mechanic handle this job for sure.
 
Yep. That’s a rear main seal leak. Mine look the same but not enough to leave a drop yet. The entire tranny has to come out. :(

I took the cover off and cleaned it all with Gunk, but leak came back. Will be letting mechanic handle this job for sure.

Dang how much does that run? Looks like it’s $20ish for the seal on camelback site. I think mine has one too
 
Dang how much does that run? Looks like it’s $20ish for the seal on camelback site. I think mine has one too
I've done a lot of research on this since I first discovered it about a year ago and from what I understand its anywhere from a 7-10hr job at whatever labor rate the mechanic you choose charges. It does require you to pull the trans. Dealers will be higher than indy's (generally). Here's a pic for reference of just how deep the seal is and how hard it would be to get to, and this is after you've already removed the flywheel. It has been advised to replace the rear main bearing as well as the front transmission seal and bearing as well since you are already in there. I could see this repair easily exceeding $1500:( But as @paflytyer stated in another thread concerning this topic, I don't plan on touching it until oil begins dripping out so much it hits my exhaust/cats and begins to stink up the cab.

(Picture courtesy of @LX_TREME from the 80 section)
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I've done a lot of research on this since I first discovered it about a year ago and from what I understand its anywhere from a 7-10hr job at whatever labor rate the mechanic you choose charges. It does require you to pull the trans. Dealers will be higher than indy's (generally). Here's a pic for reference of just how deep the seal is and how hard it would be to get to, and this is after you've already removed the flywheel. It has been advised to replace the rear main bearing as well as the front transmission seal and bearing as well since you are already in there. I could see this repair easily exceeding $1500:( But as @paflytyer stated in another thread concerning this topic, I don't plan on touching it until oil begins dripping out so much it hits my exhaust/cats and begins to stink up the cab.

(Picture courtesy of @LX_TREME from the 80 section)
attachment.php

Don’t tell me that!!:bang: I can see Tim Allen saying “Al don’t be a wimp” and then Al saying “Tim I wouldn’t do” then Tim interrupts Al and goes in and all of a sudden everything falls apart on him with oil going everywhere.
 
I tried some AT 205 resealer but that didn’t work. It’s a huge job for sure.
 
I have a leak for sure.... getting the steering rack and pinion plus new tie rods and bushings and I might ask the guy how much he’d be willing to fix the leak for since he said around $300 to replace the steering rack and other stuff.
 
Decided to finally install my air bags i got from @Mike6158 last year.

This is the same procedure for installing springs and is a :banana: job. You can go to the Air Lift 1000 site for install instructions.

1. Loosen lug nuts, jack up car to lift tires off ground. Remove diff breather, shocks and sway bar.
2. While on jack stands use the floor jack to lift one side of the axle. This will lower the other and you can easily pull the spring out.

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3. I place the jack under the drum and had no issues.
4. There is already a whole in the lower shock mount but youll need ot make it larger. Forgot size bit i used. I used sand paper to smooth it.

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5. The rest of the pics are where i ran the air lines thru. I removed the spare and it made it much easier to route everything. I recommend eye protection for lose dirt. :)

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I need to this. I've had the air bags and some new shocks sitting in the garage for 3 months, but I've been busy and a bit lazy probably. I really could have used the bags this weekend. Thanks for the write-up and the reminder.
 
I need to this. I've had the air bags and some new shocks sitting in the garage for 3 months, but I've been busy and a bit lazy probably. I really could have used the bags this weekend. Thanks for the write-up and the reminder.

Give yourself about 3-4 hours. But certainly doable by yourself.
 
Tampa area. Doing a run in Ocala on the April 7. Check out the FLCA Facebook for details.
I was going to Citrus last weekend but went to Punta Gorda with my Polaris instead.

I'm pretty sure im coming to Ocala. I'm in Tampa also, New Tampa Area.
 
Replaced the ac condenser fan with Dorman 620-560 Harmonic Balancer. I think i figured out all my leaks. :eek: I initially thought i had an oil leak from the weep whole, but turn out i had multiple leaks including the brake lines not shown here. I just replaced all the fluids so i wasn't going to redo all that work. Ill replace hoses when the next fluid change comes up.

Took 2-3 good cleaning with gunk degreaser to find the leaks.

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Replaced the calipers. I had ordered the slide pins to replace but after seeing how bad they were in the calipers decided to order (Eclipse Semi-Loaded) - Remanufactured.

PART #CAL SE3181A
PART #CAL SE3182A

This is a :banana::banana::banana: job. Only because it may require air tools. But removing the calipers and putting the new one on is straight forward.

The boots were is decent shape but the pins were covered in years of brake dust. It was tough to get them out. Needed an impact gun and impact drill. I supposed you can clean them but they were seized before and i just wanted to refresh everything.
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This is what they looked like prior to removal.
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I cleaned the surface with a drill and wire wheel. Used brake cleaner and sprayed the cylinder and cleaned all the gunk out.
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Finished product.
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