BucFL LC100 Build
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Gonna have that thing out at Turkey Trot?
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- #124
Got some new tires a couple weeks ago. Crazy deal at $600 for 4 and $80 mount and balance.
General Grabber ATx. Was thinking 295 but they don’t make that size. Kinda glad I stuck with 285. I’ll be towing a small rv eventually.
Compared to the MT’s I had, these things are super quite. And rides like a caddy on hwy. No off-road test yet but the guys at Xpedition Overland run these and they like them. I’ll be heading on a nice long road trip next week and pretty happy I got them on before leaving. I would not have enjoyed the trip with mud tires.
General Grabber ATx. Was thinking 295 but they don’t make that size. Kinda glad I stuck with 285. I’ll be towing a small rv eventually.
Compared to the MT’s I had, these things are super quite. And rides like a caddy on hwy. No off-road test yet but the guys at Xpedition Overland run these and they like them. I’ll be heading on a nice long road trip next week and pretty happy I got them on before leaving. I would not have enjoyed the trip with mud tires.
- Thread starter
- #126
Been having a grinding noise form the AC compressor bearing so a few weeks ago i replaced the bearing on the clutch. 2 Bannas
1. I used a screw driver to hold the clutch in place face plate in place. Its hand tight so not much to remove it. Be very careful when pulling it off. It uses washers to keep spacing and can pop fall out while removing. Just pull straight out and carefully. Make sure you dont lose it.
2. This is what the snap ring looks like. It was a pain to try and remove it with a c-clip tool and wasted alot of time. Screw driver cant get it off either. I went to harbor freight and bought a large pick kit. I used thelargest straight one it had and was able to get underneath the clip and pull it off in an angle. Way Easier!
3. You want to gently pry the pully off. Rotate and pry...rinse repeat until it come off. I had to give the pry bar a few gentle taps from a small hammer while spinning. Gently! You dont want to ruin your compressor do you?
1. I used a screw driver to hold the clutch in place face plate in place. Its hand tight so not much to remove it. Be very careful when pulling it off. It uses washers to keep spacing and can pop fall out while removing. Just pull straight out and carefully. Make sure you dont lose it.
2. This is what the snap ring looks like. It was a pain to try and remove it with a c-clip tool and wasted alot of time. Screw driver cant get it off either. I went to harbor freight and bought a large pick kit. I used thelargest straight one it had and was able to get underneath the clip and pull it off in an angle. Way Easier!
3. You want to gently pry the pully off. Rotate and pry...rinse repeat until it come off. I had to give the pry bar a few gentle taps from a small hammer while spinning. Gently! You dont want to ruin your compressor do you?
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- Thread starter
- #127
4. Use a same size diameter socket to hammer out the old bearing. There are tiny indentions keeing it in place that will bend outward. You wont ruin them ust hammer away until it pops out. Not direction of bearing as it comes out. Gently tap new bearing in first to seat it strait by going around and tapping. Then hammer rest of way once its all looks good.
5. I cleaned the mating surfaces with a dry rag. Should be pretty easy to put pulley back on. If you have to use a hammer, be gentle! love taps only
This was not a hard as initially thought.
5. I cleaned the mating surfaces with a dry rag. Should be pretty easy to put pulley back on. If you have to use a hammer, be gentle! love taps only
This was not a hard as initially thought.
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- Thread starter
- #128
Haven't updated my thread in a while. Here is the latest parts that have been replaced this week.
Steering Rack OEM
Shocks OEM
Crank Seal
Rear Main Seal
Fan Pulley Bracket OEM
Total: $2700 with labor.
Man this hurts the pocket.
Steering Rack OEM
Shocks OEM
Crank Seal
Rear Main Seal
Fan Pulley Bracket OEM
Total: $2700 with labor.
Man this hurts the pocket.
Im
I really love these trucks but starting to wonder if they're really worth all the up keep.
They are! Once up to date with proper PM. They're easy to keep up. They're also more reliable and derivable in any weather on or off road than any vehicle I've ever had in 50 years of driving. With great style and confront.
Remember this is a $60K vehicle. A few thousand to bring to par, is cheap.
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Hey i really appreciate your detailed instructions on the AC clutch bearing replacement. Unfortunately, my pulley was seized on and i could only get it half way off after various pry bars and about 6 hours fighting it. These instructions were spot on, though! For anyone reading this, i highly recommend going at it from underneath - remove the front skid and the oil filter, and it's really easy to get to everything, especially the snap ring
- Thread starter
- #133
Not much of an update but I finally got around to replacing the windshield water nozzles that have been bad for years.
Part number:
8538112060
Purchased on https://partsouq.com/
One job. Just remove the hoses, take some needle nose pliers, squeeze the clips and push up.
Part number:
8538112060
Purchased on https://partsouq.com/
One
job. Just remove the hoses, take some needle nose pliers, squeeze the clips and push up.- Thread starter
- #134
Finally got around to adding some new leather. I used Alea Leather - Best in Industry, OEM/ Customizable Leather Seat Cover, Premium Italian Leather - http://www.alealeather.com/en/ they have resellers/installers that can order what you need and do the installation. I paid roughly $2300 for all three rows. I only use the first two rows.
I also did some much needed maintenance:
Flush transmission fluid
Flush power steering fluid
Flush brake fluid
Flush Tarnsfer Case
Front differential flush
Rear differential flush
Rotate tires/check air pressure
inspect brakes
replace emergency brake pads
change engine air filter
I also did some much needed maintenance:
Flush transmission fluid
Flush power steering fluid
Flush brake fluid
Flush Tarnsfer Case
Front differential flush
Rear differential flush
Rotate tires/check air pressure
inspect brakes
replace emergency brake pads
change engine air filter
- Thread starter
- #135
Got an SRS blinking dash light and it turned out to be a bad seatbelt sensor. I took it to the dealer for diagnosis at $179 to troubleshoot. They wanted $383 for a new seatbelt. I found this company that will reset the seatbelt for $35. Took a week in total including me paying for shipping to get it back. I followed their instructions for reinstalling it and the problem is gone.
www.safetyrestore.com
Seat Belt Repair Service | Airbag Module Reset - Safety Restore - Safety Restore
Safety Restore is the world's leader in post-accident restorations specializing in seat belt repairs, airbag modules reset, and webbing replacements.
Replaced the calipers. I had ordered the slide pins to replace but after seeing how bad they were in the calipers decided to order (Eclipse Semi-Loaded) - Remanufactured.
PART #CAL SE3181A
PART #CAL SE3182A
This is a
The boots were is decent shape but the pins were covered in years of brake dust. It was tough to get them out. Needed an impact gun and impact drill. I supposed you can clean them but they were seized before and i just wanted to refresh everything.
@bucfl How have the NAPA calipers held up?
- Thread starter
- #137
@scrt80 They have been great. I have not had any issues. They were super easy to install. Great deal for the price. Get the semi loaded calipers, they dont come with the break pads so you can add which ever ones you want.
- Thread starter
- #138
Today i replaced the radiator. The old one sprung a leak when one of the heater T's blew. Thanks to the advice of this board for helping me locate the engine block drain screws. This is a
Cant seem to remove that last pic. Ill need to upgrade my account to post more pics. In all it took 3 1/4 gallons to replace the coolant. The reservoir was full but i noticed after going for a drive it went a an inch or so. It burpped itself fine i didnt have to do anything special like put it on an incline. I used Zerex Asian 50/50 formula specifically designed for our vehicles. It has a 150k mile life but ill swap it next timing belt.
This is what i did:
1.Tools; 10mm and 12mm sockets, 12" or longer extension or combination of extensions will work best.
2.Drain all coolant and remove hoses.
3.Remove reservoir tank. Its okay to leave the fan shroud in. To remove radiator just remove these 12mm screws. Dont worry about the hoses they wont be in the way. In another pic i show the battery removed.
View attachment 1231622
4.I think this is the passenger side engine block drain. 10mm. I tried using a hose but its still a mess. Watch your eyes.
View attachment 1231623
5. This is driver side plug. 10mm socket and not very tight, so dont over do it.
View attachment 1231624
View attachment 1231629
Well the radiator left me stranded after 7 years of service. I replaced the radiator, cap and upper hose this week. Thankfully it did not happen far from home.
BucFl,
Looking Good! Good thread. Are you still building? Do you (or anybody else in the Central Florida) have recommended mechanic in the Bay area? I'm in Dade City with an '04 LX. Only 160K miles, but I'm starting to see, hear and feel things, ya know? An educated looky-loo before a surprise is warranted, but I'm too old to enjoy laying on my back in the driveway. Lexus of Wesley Chapel is "difficult" and expensive for just a "check-up".
Thanks,
foo
Looking Good! Good thread. Are you still building? Do you (or anybody else in the Central Florida) have recommended mechanic in the Bay area? I'm in Dade City with an '04 LX. Only 160K miles, but I'm starting to see, hear and feel things, ya know? An educated looky-loo before a surprise is warranted, but I'm too old to enjoy laying on my back in the driveway. Lexus of Wesley Chapel is "difficult" and expensive for just a "check-up".
Thanks,
foo