Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (9 Viewers)

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Total cost less then $150. 00
1 Quart Monstaliner kit $ 80.00 delivered. Just barely enough for the roof.
12 oz can Eastwood 2K epoxy primer $ 40.00 delivered
Solvent, masking tape, Fiberglass impregnated Bondo & rags I had in the shop.

Total prep time less then a day, including roof rack removal.
Another Day to paint including wait time. Half an hour to prime, wait to dry. One hour to roll on the first coat, wait 4 hours to dry. Another hour to roll on the second coat.

Well worth it IMHO very cost effective way to fix clear coat issues.

Sounds more and more like a good option
 
Started on rear quarter panel armor today. made a pattern and cut these bad boy's out of some 1/4" x4 " plate I had on the rack.
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Tomorrow I well start bending tubing to wrap around the corner and down.
It well also have a swinging removable gate that well tie the two together for additional strength similar to this one my good friend Kenn (@mustcamp) made.
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His is made to carry a spare tire, mine will have perversions for a couple for small rotopaxs
 
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Well I hit a small snag, I don't have a 1.5" die for my bender. So I borrowed one from a friend and it doesn't fit. OK lets just buy the right one, so I order it and then find out it 3 to 4 weeks lead time :bang: I'm trying to get this done before Cruise Moab.
I could make it out of 1.3/4" tube ( I have that die ) but I already purchased the 1.5" tube.

So I reached back out to my Friend and he's Kindly going to lend me his bender :) I should be able to pick it up tomorrow or Saturday :clap:
 
The larger the tube diameter the better it will resist bending when you really need it to protect your rig.
 
Haha, looks like he's done it more than once! :hillbilly:
 
Ouch !!
I'm leaning towards the 1.3/4" tube ;)
Just an observation, @mustcamp 's bumper base is considerly beefier than your tube bumper. For adequate protection, I'd upgrade that tube bumper before adding the upper gate & protection.
 
Just an observation, @mustcamp 's bumper base is considerly beefier than your tube bumper. For adequate protection, I'd upgrade that tube bumper before adding the upper gate & protection.
You make a strong point, his is 2×3" .120 wall tube mine is 1.3/4 " .120 wall. both bumpers are of the same basic design.
Short of starting over I'm not sure how I would upgrade my bumper.
Part of the plan is beef up the support on the side with a larger tube and big gusset.
The main reason for the gate is it's a truss between the 2 pieces of armor.
I don't really want the gate but it's necessary to support between the two pieces of armor and where most of the strength will come from.

@mustcamp and I talked about it again this morning both of us agreed that no matter what I do with a big enough hit it's going flix into the body.

I really don't want to start over with the bumper, but I'm open to constructive criticism and ideas.

The gate is built and the rear uprights are tacked into place.
 
You make a strong point, his is 2×3" .120 wall tube mine is 1.3/4 " .120 wall. both bumpers are of the same basic design.
Short of starting over I'm not sure how I would upgrade my bumper.
Part of the plan is beef up the support on the side with a larger tube and big gusset.
The main reason for the gate is it's a truss between the 2 pieces of armor.
I don't really want the gate but it's necessary to support between the two pieces of armor and where most of the strength will come from.

@mustcamp and I talked about it again this morning both of us agreed that no matter what I do with a big enough hit it's going flix into the body.

I really don't want to start over with the bumper, but I'm open to constructive criticism and ideas.

The gate is built and the rear uprights are tacked into place.
The thicker the wall, the heavier it is. Weight is high in priorities for armor on our rigs. But I'm sure you're aware of these 2 things and I only mention it to discuss the balance between weight and protection. How do we figure that out to arrive at that balance? Everyone has their own threshold, usually determined by our driving style and experience. Yeah, you're right, whatever we fab up can be challenged by a big enough hit. At times, we pick our line to survive with the least damage, so maybe with your bumper mod, you can be a little bolder. One thing's for sure, the sheet metal behind the rear axle and above the rear bumper is highly exposed to damage from obstacles we couldn't see or anticipate. And your bumper mod should help!
 
The thicker the wall, the heavier it is. Weight is high in priorities for armor on our rigs. But I'm sure you're aware of these 2 things and I only mention it to discuss the balance between weight and protection. How do we figure that out to arrive at that balance? Everyone has their own threshold, usually determined by our driving style and experience. Yeah, you're right, whatever we fab up can be challenged by a big enough hit. At times, we pick our line to survive with the least damage, so maybe with your bumper mod, you can be a little bolder. One thing's for sure, the sheet metal behind the rear axle and above the rear bumper is highly exposed to damage from obstacles we couldn't see or anticipate. And your bumper mod should help!
The number 1 theme to my build is keep it light and one the main reasons I have not put armor for the rear quarters. but if you follow my thread you know that I have smashed them and the tail lights many times.
1.75" .120 wall dome is pretty much the standard for roll cages and armor and what I decided to use.
From the start of this project in the back of my mind I kept thinking am I just building a damage multiplier ? hopefully not.
The truss gate is for sure going to help support/ strengthen the armor.
 
Mine has stood up to a lot of hits with no contact to the body. Driving style will determine how hard you contacts solid walls with the side of your rig. If you slam into a solid object hard enough to flex that tubing far enough to do considerable body damage then you would have surely caved in the side of your 80 without the armor.

I did start with a bumper that allows for more bracing that can’t be seen and perhaps you are unaware of. Having that rear side armor brings some peace of mind in tight situations when I need to focus fully to the front but I also know I’m passing through a squeeze. Once my front end is past the tight spot I feel more relaxed about getting the rear quarter past and can concentrate ahead so as to remain on the intended line and avoid unnecessary stoppage or other damage.

Based on your driving style, I think the damage will be stopped not multiplied unless you plan to start going hammer down inwhich case I want to see. 😁
 
There’s a good bit of 3d structure going into the quarter panel armor and 1 3/4” .120 wall will be plenty strong. If he hits something hard enough to bend it, then eh. So what, he’s hit the quarter panel a half a dozen times before without armor anyway
 
Mine has stood up to a lot of hits with no contact to the body. Driving style will determine how hard you contacts solid walls with the side of your rig. If you slam into a solid object hard enough to flex that tubing far enough to do considerable body damage then you would have surely caved in the side of your 80 without the armor.

I did start with a bumper that allows for more bracing that can’t be seen and perhaps you are unaware of. Having that rear side armor brings some peace of mind in tight situations when I need to focus fully to the front but I also know I’m passing through a squeeze. Once my front end is past the tight spot I feel more relaxed about getting the rear quarter past and can concentrate ahead so as to remain on the intended line and avoid unnecessary stoppage or other damage.

Based on your driving style, I think the damage will be stopped not multiplied unless you plan to start going hammer down inwhich case I want to see. 😁
I did see your bracing and it is substantial.
I'm hoping that the truss gate will help make up for inferior bracing !
 
There’s a good bit of 3d structure going into the quarter panel armor and 1 3/4” .120 wall will be plenty strong. If he hits something hard enough to bend it, then eh. So what, he’s hit the quarter panel a half a dozen times before without armor anyway
The end goal is to protect the tail light and not rip them out every time the rear end make contact with a unmovable object.
Not really concerned if they flex in and kisses the body
 
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The number 1 theme to my build is keep it light and one the main reasons I have not put armor for the rear quarters. but if you follow my thread you know that I have smashed them and the tail lights many times.
1.75" .120 wall dome is pretty much the standard for roll cages and armor and what I decided to use.
From the start of this project in the back of my mind I kept thinking am I just building a damage multiplier ? hopefully not.
The truss gate is for sure going to help support/ strengthen the armor.
Yeah, I remembered your theme and that's why I brought the weight issue up. I've also mashed my sheetmetal and taillight (PS) and protection would have prevented it. My theme has been different with front ARB and rear Kaymar bumpers. I surely don't have your approach or departure angles and I still have the OEM flares and they've all suffered damage of some sort. But, at this point it's all just appearance, not structural. I just enjoy following this and @baldilocks build threads to glean anything useful to my build, and offer any suggestions I can. :cheers:
 
I picked up some 1.75 DOM tube this morning o_O $ 10.34 a foot
Had a few hrs this afternoon. two try's I came up with this
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There will be more pieces to fill it in.
And I think when I beef up the mount to the frame I well add one as well on each side ;)
 

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