Builds Brandi: 75 40 + 5.3 + fj60 H42 + splitcase .... build and lots of questions

[Augustiron]

Copy, definitely not loving the idea of more heat from headers.

I think I can make this work with the 2010 Camaro manifolds and some creative pipe work....

but I also read elsewhere that the ls manifolds can be cut and welded with mig...
I have a set of stock truck manifolds that came with the engine I can butcher up to try and get an optimal dump out location as I love a welding fab project.

The summit ones linked above seem like a halfway point between the straight down exit of the Camaro manifolds and the reward dump of the truck manifolds,...
My challenge seems to lie in needing it tucked closer to the block

 

[bikersmurf]

Within these pages you will find much of the wisdom you seek…

SBC swap with manual steering

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Augustiron]

Thanks.

 

[cruisermatt]

The Summit ones are 100% what you want. Just buy them. Well worth the $220

 

[Augustiron]

5.3 mechanical fan arriving today, will mock up and look at distance to rad before finalizing.

I'm liking where everything else is sitting right now, but might come forward just a bit to get better airflow behind the passenger cylinder and firewall.
More clearance to the pumpkin and f driveshaft is always good, But if I move it any higher up front, the frame side AA motor mount starts to sit above the frame rail.

 

[pb4ugo]

I haven't done a LS swap, but I'm familiar with sbc swaps. Below is a pic of my sbc, nv4500 swap that the po's mechanic installed. I wasn't intending buying it at the time , but the condition of the 40 and the swap was intriguing. One of the clinchers was because of the mechanics work and engine placement. He was able to reuse the stk fan shroud. He moved the rad support to the pass side by a couple on inches and used a slightly smaller fan. It's height was stk. I wheeled this 40 once with the stk springs and the frt diffs pinion flange grazed the shops poorly made exhaust crossover pipe. Overall it was minor. The engines higher placement is better than my other 40. Note his placement of the engine mount. Idk, if this works for your LS or not.

 

[Augustiron]

That pic is great, thankyou.
your mount is probably 1/2" higher than mine right now judging by its exposure above the frame.

 

[peesalot]

A piece of the flexible heat shield that is self stick ( search flexible muffler heat shield ) , they have an insulation layer 1 side & a thicker alum I think metal side, it can be hammered with rubber mallet , you can get close with hands but I found it took the mallet to really get the details/curves to stick to the shape of firewall , I stopped at the ribs each side, it covers misc holes as well, makes a huge diff in cab floor temps. FWIW the stock radiator with mech clutch fan & shroud cool my 6.0 just fine.

 

[rockcod]

Here is my set up with Sanderson headers, plenty of room for fan, steering shaft and exhaust. I used a different oil pan that has areas of relief in it, which equates to room for exhaust routing.

 

[Augustiron]

Thanks @rockcod

Damn, that's some pretty (and extensive) welding.

How far back is your front pulley from the edge of the main cross member?

 

[Augustiron]

eBay fan showed up, mocked up with the radiator support, plenty of room. Stock shroud is almost reusable with some mods... I saw the universal aluminum ones from summit, but I like thin steel so I can weld it easier with the MIG.

Front pulley is centered left to right between the frame rails, and I moved it about a half inch forward to get more clearance at the rear of the cylinder head while still having room for the shifter at the transmission tunnel.

I'm about a half inch behind the imaginary line of the shock tower rivets to the pulley, which equates to about 10 in from the front of the pulley to the rear edge of the main front cross member.

 

[Augustiron]

A piece of the flexible heat shield that is self stick ( search flexible muffler heat shield ) , they have an insulation layer 1 side & a thicker alum I think metal side, it can be hammered with rubber mallet , you can get close with hands but I found it took the mallet to really get the details/curves to stick to the shape of firewall , I stopped at the ribs each side, it covers misc holes as well, makes a huge diff in cab floor temps. FWIW the stock radiator with mech clutch fan & shroud cool my 6.0 just fine.

Copy, I see thermotec, second skin, and a number of others available... I guess digging into the specs and reviews to see who has good adhesive properties and the best thermal resistance.

 

[rockcod]

“How far back is your front pulley from the edge of the main cross member?”

It is 10 3/4” from front pulley to the edge of the main cross member.

 

[peesalot]

Check wngrog's threads, he recently put some on a build and posted the product, if Nolan will use it it aint crap.

 

[gifu]

Wasn’t there something about mounting the shroud upside down and it fit almost perfect?

 

[Augustiron]

Ha, I tried that.
Left right offset is better, but height still needs mods

 

[Augustiron]

Motor mounts are tacked in, engine is sitting on them and a jack in the rear until I get the trans x member made.

One issue I checked last night before I had to stop was front driveshaft clearance.
Pretty tight.
I may wind up notching the oil pan.

 

[gifu]

Wait… are the driveshafts the same length?? Whoa.

 

[Augustiron]

Small update, I got the engine mounts burned in, spent some time waffling around about how to do the transmission mount and came up with a pretty beefy crossmember and mount based on what I had laying around in scrap steel.

I realize having the transmission mount bolts not centered in line with the frame Mount bolts creates a bit of a cantilever, but everything is super beefy so it shouldn't twist, I am using 12 mm bolts, and it is not that far off the center line. Also by putting the cross member behind the mount center line, I get more drive shaft clearance and didn't have to notch the cross member.

I'll post installed pictures when I stab the engine back in.
I prepped and POR15 the front 3/4 of the chassis so it is done anywhere the engine will be in the way later, I scuffed it up with a green Scotch-Brite and will top coat it in a satin black. I also have fluid film coming for the inner frame.

I 2k epoxied all the bare metal and got down some filler primer and I'm working on that now

Parts: eBay pre-flashed ECU arrived, I ordered a champion LS swap fj40 radiator,

 

[Augustiron]

Looking ahead, need some guidance on parts...

Oil sender:
- what do I need to hook up the oil sender on the LS for the stock Toyota gauge?

Temp sender(s):
- what do I need to hook up the temp sender for the stock Toyota gauge? While I assume I also need to keep the ECT sensor for the LS ECU?

Exhaust:
- the manifolds I have use a 2.5" outlet, even if I upgrade to a 6.0 lq4, I can't imagine I would need more than a two and a half inch main pipe and muffler for the main run.
So does 2.5 off the manifolds into a Y with a single 2.5 pipe out the back makes sense? It certainly does if I'm buying the DIY exhaust pipe tubing kit.

Fuel pump:
- I am getting a replacement OEM tank as mine had some rust holes. I want to run an in tank pump.
I've read various threads with various solutions of cutting up a GM pump, welding in the flange, getting a complete aftermarket drop-in unit, etc.
Current thoughts from those who have gone down this road, specifically part numbers would be great. Thank you