Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod (1 Viewer)

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Back to another Tundra Mod subject, but not sure it has been resolved? Is the 3mm offset of caliper common or just case by case issue? I just measured my backing plate eliminator and it is 3mm thick. That could push the FROR caliper relocation bracket out if installed behind it. Sounds like some run the backing plate and some do not?
 
Back to another Tundra Mod subject, but not sure it has been resolved? Is the 3mm offset of caliper common or just case by case issue? I just measured my backing plate eliminator and it is 3mm thick. That could push the FROR caliper relocation bracket out if installed behind it. Sounds like some run the backing plate and some do not?

No way anyone is running a 60 dust shield with these brakes.
 
No way anyone is running a 60 dust shield with these brakes.
I think he was asking if the 3mm thickness of the backing plate eliminator (which he has) takes up for the 3mm offset that was shown earlier in the thread. Obviously the lip around the perimeter of the backing plates keep them from being usable with the larger rotors, so that's what made me figure he was asking about the eliminator.

Though I wonder if that 3mm offset is still even a thing at this point, since I see now on their site they offer the original kit still, but now have the 00-09 Tundra as an option. Curious if that just dictates the calipers they send, or if there's been some slight tweaking of the caliper bracket as well.
 
We did a few of these upgrades in the shop recently and decided to add this handy wire harness to the site for the brake fluid level sender.

 
We did a few of these upgrades in the shop recently and decided to add this handy wire harness to the site for the brake fluid level sender.


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I scavenged the wiring from a junk yard and spliced it into the stock harness. This is an easier solution with a reasonable cost.
 
What is a simple way to test this circuit? Mine has not worked since owning my Cruiser and it may be an issue with the light socket at the cluster? Thanks!
 
Good question. Now that I think about it I can’t remember doing anything about on my truck (which has a GM master cyl and hydroboost), but my light still works fine with my parking brake.
 
Good question. Now that I think about it I can’t remember doing anything about on my truck (which has a GM master cyl and hydroboost), but my light still works fine with my parking brake.
The parking brake has its own circuit.

Testing the MC reservoir light should be as simple as lifting the cap and moving the float up and down. Near the bottom, the light should come on. Near the top it should be off.
 
The parking brake has its own circuit.

Testing the MC reservoir light should be as simple as lifting the cap and moving the float up and down. Near the bottom, the light should come on. Near the top it should be off.
Yeah but they use the same light bulb.
 
The parking brake has its own circuit.

Testing the MC reservoir light should be as simple as lifting the cap and moving the float up and down. Near the bottom, the light should come on. Near the top it should be off.
I assume your talking about the upgraded MC per this thread, so its not on the cap, I thought the fluid would overflow if I did that, but maybe not? My light does not come on with the e-brake either, so probably the bulb, or holder.
 
I assume your talking about the upgraded MC per this thread, so its not on the cap, I thought the fluid would overflow if I did that, but maybe not? My light does not come on with the e-brake either, so probably the bulb, or holder.
I used the old cap on the new master. Fit perfectly. The old cap has a floating donut that induces an open or closed circuit into the low brake fluid sensor.

Its possible that the cap on the JDM HJ's are a different diameter than on the US FJ's.
 
Yes. Don't set the parking brake while you test the master.

Right but the last few trucks I have done have defaulted to the light being on without the master cylinder cap being plugged in.
I must have just jumped my wiring and don’t remember. It has been over 5 years now.
 
Right but the last few trucks I have done have defaulted to the light being on without the master cylinder cap being plugged in.
I must have just jumped my wiring and don’t remember. It has been over 5 years now.
Well, success in a small amount. This might be the problem I am having. I have the 80 series master with the new style plug spliced into the existing 2 wires that came from the factory cap harness end. I finally pulled out my dash cluster (what a cluster with a dash cap in place!) and replaced the blinker, brake/seatbelt, and choke 4wd harness from a spare complete cluster I have. My original had a broken light socket on the brake light spot and the holder was broken on one of the blinkers. Got everything back together and tested and all the lights finally work, BUT the brake light will not turn off now! E-brake released, jumped wires together at master, I feel like I tired everything. I thought the E-brake switch was bad, but even if I jump those wires together with the master together, light still says on. Any suggestions here?
I remember reading about possibly grounding one of the wires at master, but I even tried that.
 
Issue figured out. Mainly my fault as I never had a functional brake light indicator on dash working on this rig. Light goes out as soon as started. I have a bad e-brake handle switch, ordered a new one. Tested master end by jumping wires together with engine running. Works like a charm and made connections more permanent. If I had not have already sourced the connector , wire, and cut my green harness plug off, I would have bought @cruisermatt 's conversion harness for sure. It would have made this a lot easier!
2023-11-12 15.22.08.jpg
 

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