Brake Controller Pedal wire -

[Romer]

I installed a Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller today. It's all wired up except for the pedal switch. No matter how I try and contort myself, I cant seem to get to the two wires coming off the switch. I can feel them, but trying to splice one by feel only would be risky in my book.

Is there another spot to easily pick this wire up, or did you disassemble the dash to get at the wire. Disassembly would be what I am going to do as my next step in a few days. Since I am done for the weekend, thought I would see what the easy way is

It senses the trailer and I can hear the elec brakes when I do the manual power, so everything else is good.

Out of curiosity, what switched power source did you use?

Thanks

 

[Koffer]

I would tap the brake light wire under the drivers side kick panel where it heads to the back of the truck for the lights . The wire color and connector should be a easy find with the FSM

 

[firetruck41]

(From memory) I just removed one nut from the brake switch above the pedal, and then you can remove the switch, access the harness, tap in to it, and replace it. As long as you don't turn the other nut, you won't even mess up the adjustment.

 

[mmm635]

I installed a Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller today. It's all wired up except for the pedal switch. No matter how I try and contort myself, I cant seem to get to the two wires coming off the switch. I can feel them, but trying to splice one by feel only would be risky in my book.

Is there another spot to easily pick this wire up, or did you disassemble the dash to get at the wire. Disassembly would be what I am going to do as my next step in a few days. Since I am done for the weekend, thought I would see what the easy way is

It senses the trailer and I can hear the elec brakes when I do the manual power, so everything else is good.

Out of curiosity, what switched power source did you use?

Thanks

I just did the install on the same controller a few weeks ago and thought it was pretty easy. When I was reading threads on the install I got the impression that it was really hard, but was not. The trick is to unplug the connector going into the switch, reroute the wiring harness, and pull the harness down and it will be right in front of you. Then, you can splice in your brake controller wiring. Then, simply reroute the wiring and plug the assembly in. The whole process only took about 15 minutes and did not call for any Advil for my back. Works like a charm!

 

[corsair23]

Ken,

I did the contortionist thing when I did mine and it was a PITA...I looked into taking the dash apart etc. even

Sounds like the above suggestions of dropping the switch down is the trick and I wish I would have known this back then - I looked in the FSM at the time and I don't recall getting the impression this was an option...

Sorry, but no help on the switched power...My controller isn't near that fancy that it needs switched power - Don't you have 1 or 2 aux fuse blocks installed with switched power that you could run the controller to?

 

[Aids10]

Great Info!

THX M8

 

[baja1d]

(From memory) I just removed one nut from the brake switch above the pedal, and then you can remove the switch, access the harness, tap in to it, and replace it. As long as you don't turn the other nut, you won't even mess up the adjustment.

Just did this and it worked a little better. It's still a PITA to get to. BTW, used the solid red wire on the brake switch.

 

[western flyer]

Ken,

Per your request, one option for tapping a switched power source is at the the side mirror Remote Control Mirror Switch on the dash. Easy access. I tapped that circuit to get switched power for a relay that powers my main power feed to the 7 pole trailer connector (and a fuse box in the rear side panel). In the pic you can see the wire colors. They appear to call that wire color "GR" (grey) in the EWD page 104 and wiring diagram 18 (page 206).

One thing about this circuit is that it is also hot on ACC, which was important to me, but my be a liability to you.

Cheers,

Jon

 

[western flyer]

OK....the pics should be here this time.

 

[Romer]

Jon, thanks for the tips and the pic. I am sure that will help others. I completed this mod 4 years ago and don't even remember how I finished it, I think I did the contortionist thing and wired it to the switch on the pedal. Thinking about it now, I would have gone to the taillights and ran a wire. Your method seems pretty good. . Sold the truck two years ago so I couldn't go look

 

[western flyer]

Ken,

Holy carp, I had no idea this thread was that old. Of course (you sold the LX). Thanks. As you were.

Jon

 

[cruiserdan]

Ken,

Holy carp, I had no idea this thread was that old. Of course (you sold the LX). Thanks. As you were.

Jon

If you think this thread is old you should see Ken......

 

[DSRTRDR]

 

[western flyer]

Classic...

 

[Romer]

If you think this thread is old you should see Ken......

Hello Ketttle

 

[Aids10]

Ken,

Per your request, one option for tapping a switched power source is at the the side mirror Remote Control Mirror Switch on the dash. Easy access. I tapped that circuit to get switched power for a relay that powers my main power feed to the 7 pole trailer connector (and a fuse box in the rear side panel). In the pic you can see the wire colors. They appear to call that wire color "GR" (grey) in the EWD page 104 and wiring diagram 18 (page 206).

One thing about this circuit is that it is also hot on ACC, which was important to me, but my be a liability to you.

Cheers,

Jon

That's not powering the battery charge line on the 7-Pin is it?

 

[western flyer]

That's not powering the battery charge line on the 7-Pin is it?

Nope. It is powering a relay in the engine bay. IIRC, the relay draws about 0.5 amp when on.

 

[Aids10]

Lovely Jubbly

Here's Mine-
Cruzita Towing Mods

 

[baja1d]

Edit, edit, edit... The solid red wire is tied to the cruise control. It must be the red wire with the yellow strip?

 

[Aids10]

It was the green with white stripe for me, tying into lower foot well harness ID2