Builds Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build (1 Viewer)

[Box Rocket]

Have you had any flex "issues" with the steering binding with it sitting behind the axle at droop? I was thinking of doing the hell fire knuckles but it looks like you do just fine with stock.

No issues. As long as you have the right swaybar drop spacers so the driveshaft doesn’t hit it there’s no issues. At most the tie rod can sometimes make contact with the radius arms but it’s minimal. A little grinding of the radius arms will eliminate any contact if you have any.

 

[suttonkb]

No issues. As long as you have the right swaybar drop spacers so the driveshaft doesn’t hit it there’s no issues. At most the tie rod can sometimes make contact with the radius arms but it’s minimal. A little grinding of the radius arms will eliminate any contact if you have any.

Okay the tie rod and radius arms is what I was hoping to avoid. Thanks for the heads up on how to alleviate it.

 

[Box Rocket]

Okay the tie rod and radius arms is what I was hoping to avoid. Thanks for the heads up on how to alleviate it.

How big of a lift do you have?

 

[suttonkb]

How big of a lift do you have?

I just finished the head gaskets so I haven't gotten to that stage yet. Picked it up for really cheap and doing a complete overhaul. I was thinking around 4" with 37s

 

[Box Rocket]

I just finished the head gaskets so I haven't gotten to that stage yet. Picked it up for really cheap and doing a complete overhaul. I was thinking around 4" with 37s

I’ve had a few different setups. The tallest lift I’ve had was about 5.5”. I’m now at 3”. Every about how the truck handles and performs is better with the shorter lift. I could run 37s with this lift but 35’s have been fine. I suggest keeping it as low as you can and run the tire you want. 37’s are great but need lower gears more than 35’s.

 

[Box Rocket]

So in an effort to experience and test the "complete" Slinky suspension I got a new set of rear control arms from Endless Horizon Outfitters that showed up yesterday. These are the Blackhawk arms from 4xOverland that are made for the Slinky kits. Lowers are beefy. Uppers will be easily adjustable on the truck.

From the EHO website.

• 11mm Longer than stock

• Factory type long life bushings

• Direct bolt in

• 1.650″ O.D. tubing

• .120 wall thickness

• Powder Coated Black

There are also standard length lowers. Looking forward to some testing with these.

Stock vs Blackhawk lower material

 

[tacosupreme]

Why 11mm longer? I need to get a set. I bent one on a log crossing.

(edit: Longer arms recenter the tire in the wheel well when lifted)

 

[Dubbinchris]

Why 11mm longer? I need to get a set. I bent one on a log crossing.

(edit: Longer arms recenter the tire in the wheel well when lifted)

Fixes your drive shaft angles.

 

[Box Rocket]

Fixes your drive shaft angles.

Why 11mm longer? I need to get a set. I bent one on a log crossing.

(edit: Longer arms recenter the tire in the wheel well when lifted)

Longer lowers do two things both of which you guys brought up. Re-centers the axle in the wheel well and will also rotate the pinion back down to correct pinion angle on lifted trucks. Pinion angle can be fine tuned with the adjustable uppers as I'm sure most are aware.

 

[-Spike-]

Why 11mm longer? I need to get a set. I bent one on a log crossing.

(edit: Longer arms recenter the tire in the wheel well when lifted)

Only when sitting still. When the suspension is compressed or cycled, the longer arms will push the axle back, which will cause larger tires to rub prematurely.

 

[NateMob]

Only when sitting still. When the suspension is compressed or cycled, the longer arms will push the axle back, which will cause larger tires to rub prematurely.

Sawzall takes care of that real quick.

 

[Box Rocket]

Only when sitting still. When the suspension is compressed or cycled, the longer arms will push the axle back, which will cause larger tires to rub prematurely.

Not really what I've experienced. The tires are closer to the front edge of the wheel arch normally so moving the axle back (we're talking about 1/2" of added length) really won't cause much issue at the rear of the wheel arch and will free up a little space at the front. Again, this is a minor change in arm length so it's not going to screw anything up.

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

If your tyres dont rub, you can fit bigger ones

 

[Box Rocket]

If your tyres dont rub, you can fit bigger ones

One of the reasons I want 37's but I wish I didn't have to buy new wheels to do it. Can't find any 37's anymore for 16" wheels.

 

[-Spike-]

Not really what I've experienced. The tires are closer to the front edge of the wheel arch normally so moving the axle back (we're talking about 1/2" of added length) really won't cause much issue at the rear of the wheel arch and will free up a little space at the front. Again, this is a minor change in arm length so it's not going to screw anything up.

My upper arms are about 1.5 inches longer than stock, which was done to change the pinion angle. That pushed my axle back about .25-.5", which caused my tires to rub only the rear of the wells and the fuel filler pipe. This may or may not have curled the trailing edge of the wheel well up- that may have been rock damage, or a combination. Normally the tires rub pretty evenly all the way around on trucks with stock arms. YMMV

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

you want bigger form 37 anyway, otherwise its like driving on beanbags.


If you went that much longer on the uppers, the amount your diff moved back differs depending on where it is in the cycle as the unequal arms move the wheel back and forth in the arch.

You would normally only be 1/2" maybe 3/4 max different on the uppers.

 

[Box Rocket]

My upper arms are about 1.5 inches longer than stock, which was done to change the pinion angle. That pushed my axle back about .25-.5", which caused my tires to rub only the rear of the wells and the fuel filler pipe. This may or may not have curled the trailing edge of the wheel well up- that may have been rock damage, or a combination. Normally the tires rub pretty evenly all the way around on trucks with stock arms. YMMV

Interesting. I usually see upper arms decrease in length to rotate the pinion down to correct pinion angle. A lift usually rotates the pinion up and needs to be corrected with longer lower arms or shorter uppers (or both) to bring the pinion back down to get the flanges parallel again.

 

[Box Rocket]

you want bigger form 37 anyway, otherwise its like driving on beanbags.

Nah....44's on 15" wheels is where it's at.

 

[-Spike-]

Interesting. I usually see upper arms decrease in length to rotate the pinion down to correct pinion angle. A lift usually rotates the pinion up and needs to be corrected with longer lower arms or shorter uppers (or both) to bring the pinion back down to get the flanges parallel again.

Usually. I rotated the pinion up to get it and my driveshaft out of the rocks. The flanges are not parallel, but the driveshaft u-joints are at equal angles, i.e; in a broken back configuration. Been that way for over a decade with no issues, no vibes, and no trashed driveshafts. In any case, the point is that my axle is moved back a smidge, and the tires rub the rear. On a 6" lift and 37's.

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Nah....44's on 15" wheels is where it's at.

Only after you have ground the calipers and tripled up the wheel spacers #ghettofix