Builds Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build

[N8 LC]

Box Rocket,

I have a 96 80 series that I have been building up for the last year and I currently have the OME J Springs and L Shocks on it. I have 315 MT MTR's with custom front and rear bumpers, winch, sliders, tool box in back full of gear, roof rack and some other typical stuff but not built overly heavy like some nor do I plan to add much weight to it. With the current OME setup I personally think it rides terrible. I honestly don't like driving it right now because it rides so rough and bounces all over the place. I have had Icon coilovers on my Tundra and 4Runner so I like nice suspension but I was hoping I wouldn't need it for my 80. I guess I was wrong...

I read your write up on TCT on the stage 1 kit and I am wondering how much of the ride difference was from the Slinky Coils as compared to the better shocks? I see the Slinky Stage 1 kit on Redline is $2300. For not that much more ($2800) I can get the Icon Stage 2 kit with dual rate Icon coils and 2.5 remote res Icon shocks. Are the slinky coils really worth the added cost or is the biggest benefit the shocks and the Icon coils would work just fine for me? I would like as much flex as possible so I am guessing the Slinky kit coils and shocks are slightly longer than the Icon kit, but I don't know for sure. Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jfz80]

May want to inquire if the complete slinky kit even an option? ...... seems most folks are still waiting on some pieces and the special valving by icon.

 

[Box Rocket]

Box Rocket,

I have a 96 80 series that I have been building up for the last year and I currently have the OME J Springs and L Shocks on it. I have 315 MT MTR's with custom front and rear bumpers, winch, sliders, tool box in back full of gear, roof rack and some other typical stuff but not built overly heavy like some nor do I plan to add much weight to it. With the current OME setup I personally think it rides terrible. I honestly don't like driving it right now because it rides so rough and bounces all over the place. I have had Icon coilovers on my Tundra and 4Runner so I like nice suspension but I was hoping I wouldn't need it for my 80. I guess I was wrong...

I read your write up on TCT on the stage 1 kit and I am wondering how much of the ride difference was from the Slinky Coils as compared to the better shocks? I see the Slinky Stage 1 kit on Redline is $2300. For not that much more ($2800) I can get the Icon Stage 2 kit with dual rate Icon coils and 2.5 remote res Icon shocks. Are the slinky coils really worth the added cost or is the biggest benefit the shocks and the Icon coils would work just fine for me? I would like as much flex as possible so I am guessing the Slinky kit coils and shocks are slightly longer than the Icon kit, but I don't know for sure. Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated.

the coils are definitely a factor in the ride quality but shocks are what is going to smooth it all out so are arguably a bigger factor in ride quality.

Although you say your 80 isn't built "overly heavy" it is still a heavy truck with the things you have on it and I would consider it to be on the heavy side.

From what I understand the icon coils are a lighter spring rate and better suited on a lighter truck. Your truck is probably at least as heavy as mine, if not heavier, and I don't think I'd be happy with anything lighter than the heavy rate springs I am running. So I think you might not be happy with the lighter Icon springs. That would suggest that the Slinkys will be worth the extra cost in the long run. "Buy once, cry once" as they say.

The shocks with the slinky kits are a different length and valving than the "off-the-shelf" icons. They are designed and tuned to work with the matching springs. IIRC the stage2 icon shocks have the remote reservoir but do not have the CDC adjustment. I think if you're stepping up to a 2.5 remote res shock its not as worthwhile if you don't have the adjustability.
I kinda figured when I got the Stage4s that I'd find a setting I liked and the shocks would not change much after that but I've been surprised how frequently I'm playing with the shock settings. It's really nice to be able to tweak them for the conditions and loads.

 

[N8 LC]

Box Rocket,

Thank you for the quick response. I definitly appreciate your feedback. Now the only problem is, like jfz80 mentioned above, can I even get the Slinky Kit??? I have a call into Justin at Redline. Hopefully I hear back from him soon.

 

[Box Rocket]

Box Rocket,

Thank you for the quick response. I definitly appreciate your feedback. Now the only problem is, like jfz80 mentioned above, can I even get the Slinky Kit??? I have a call into Justin at Redline. Hopefully I hear back from him soon.

I'll see what I can find out in the complete kits. As of last week I know he had some 75mm heavy coils in stock.

Justin has had some serious health problems over the last week or two and is just getting home from the hospital so it might be difficult to make contact but if I can get any info I'll pass it along.

 

[midfat]

the coils are definitely a factor in the ride quality but shocks are what is going to smooth it all out so are arguably a bigger factor in ride quality.

Although you say your 80 isn't built "overly heavy" it is still a heavy truck with the things you have on it and I would consider it to be on the heavy side.

From what I understand the icon coils are a lighter spring rate and better suited on a lighter truck. Your truck is probably at least as heavy as mine, if not heavier, and I don't think I'd be happy with anything lighter than the heavy rate springs I am running. So I think you might not be happy with the lighter Icon springs. That would suggest that the Slinkys will be worth the extra cost in the long run. "Buy once, cry once" as they say.

The shocks with the slinky kits are a different length and valving than the "off-the-shelf" icons. They are designed and tuned to work with the matching springs. IIRC the stage2 icon shocks have the remote reservoir but do not have the CDC adjustment. I think if you're stepping up to a 2.5 remote res shock its not as worthwhile if you don't have the adjustability.
I kinda figured when I got the Stage4s that I'd find a setting I liked and the shocks would not change much after that but I've been surprised how frequently I'm playing with the shock settings. It's really nice to be able to tweak them for the conditions and loads.

Out of curiosity, do you have a go-to setting for the Icon CDC on your daily duty? I've landed on 3 front and 5 rear. My truck is running stock bumpers, no rack and a basic set of drawers, so I'm certainly on the lighter side of most built 80s. The ride is slightly firm, which i prefer. Overall, I absolutely love my Icon 2.5 Stage 4 w/CDC setup on Icon springs.

 

[N8 LC]

I'll see what I can find out in the complete kits. As of last week I know he had some 75mm heavy coils in stock.

Justin has had some serious health problems over the last week or two and is just getting home from the hospital so it might be difficult to make contact but if I can get any info I'll pass it along.

Thanks! I appreciate your help!

 

[JWolfi]

the coils are definitely a factor in the ride quality but shocks are what is going to smooth it all out so are arguably a bigger factor in ride quality.

Although you say your 80 isn't built "overly heavy" it is still a heavy truck with the things you have on it and I would consider it to be on the heavy side.

From what I understand the icon coils are a lighter spring rate and better suited on a lighter truck. Your truck is probably at least as heavy as mine, if not heavier, and I don't think I'd be happy with anything lighter than the heavy rate springs I am running. So I think you might not be happy with the lighter Icon springs. That would suggest that the Slinkys will be worth the extra cost in the long run. "Buy once, cry once" as they say.

The shocks with the slinky kits are a different length and valving than the "off-the-shelf" icons. They are designed and tuned to work with the matching springs. IIRC the stage2 icon shocks have the remote reservoir but do not have the CDC adjustment. I think if you're stepping up to a 2.5 remote res shock its not as worthwhile if you don't have the adjustability.
I kinda figured when I got the Stage4s that I'd find a setting I liked and the shocks would not change much after that but I've been surprised how frequently I'm playing with the shock settings. It's really nice to be able to tweak them for the conditions and loads.

While on the subject, I know Adam is running Trail Tailor rear links and i keep glancing at the 100mm Tourflex Coils the offer on site. Any input on those as a comparison to the slinkys or Icons?

 

[Box Rocket]

Not much has changed with the truck. Added a couple small mag mounts for an iPad mini to use for mapping apps. I'm using Gaia GPS right now and really like it.

 

[Box Rocket]

Took a trip last week that covered 700 miles of dirt across Utah. On the way home one of my rear brake pads shattered and came out of the caliper, leaving only the backing shim. The pads were not worn out so it was a bit of a surprise. Didn't see it until I got home. Didn't hear it over the noise of the truck. Destroyed the rotor and the caliper. Got it all replaced on Saturday so all is well now but kind lame. Never had a pad shatter before.

Carnage pics








New parts.

 

[tacosupreme]

Isn't there pins holding them in?

 

[Box Rocket]

Isn't there pins holding them in?

View attachment 1567218

Your pic is a front caliper, mine is the rear. The rears have 'slots' that the pads fit into

 

[Box Rocket]

Halfway through a seat swap. I got a killer deal on these 2011 VW Jetta seats. Leather, heaters. They are a manual slide, but have power recline. The rails are quite a bit wider than the cruiser ones. I did a bit of light hammering to the ridge in the floorboard where the front mount is closest to the ebrake handle because of the rail width. Without a bit of clearancing to that ridge, they sit too close to the door and the door won't close correctly. Driver seat is done and installed. Need to do the passenger seat tonight.

I needed to fabricate new mounts for them, but that was pretty straight forward. I need to hook up the electricals still but drove it to work this morning and the comfort and seating position is so much better for me. The seat bottom is probably about 1" higher than the stock seat bottoms so it will raise the driving position slightly. These seats have a 'tilt' adjustment for the bottom so with that adjusted lower it doesn't feel like you're sitting any higher.

 

[lumbee1]

Halfway through a seat swap. I got a killer deal on these 2011 VW Jetta seats. Leather, heaters. They are a manual slide, but have power recline. The rails are quite a bit wider than the cruiser ones. I did a bit of light hammering to the ridge in the floorboard where the front mount is closest to the ebrake handle because of the rail width. Without a bit of clearancing to that ridge, they sit too close to the door and the door won't close correctly. Driver seat is done and installed. Need to do the passenger seat tonight.

I needed to fabricate new mounts for them, but that was pretty straight forward. I need to hook up the electricals still but drove it to work this morning and the comfort and seating position is so much better for me. The seat bottom is probably about 1" higher than the stock seat bottoms so it will raise the driving position slightly. These seats have a 'tilt' adjustment for the bottom so with that adjusted lower it doesn't feel like you're sitting any higher.

I have a 2013 GTI and while the seats are really lacking on controls and fine tuning, they don't need it. The GTI seats are fantastic and incredibly comfortable.

 

[BerettaMato]

Halfway through a seat swap. I got a killer deal on these 2011 VW Jetta seats. Leather, heaters. They are a manual slide, but have power recline. The rails are quite a bit wider than the cruiser ones. I did a bit of light hammering to the ridge in the floorboard where the front mount is closest to the ebrake handle because of the rail width. Without a bit of clearancing to that ridge, they sit too close to the door and the door won't close correctly. Driver seat is done and installed. Need to do the passenger seat tonight.

I needed to fabricate new mounts for them, but that was pretty straight forward. I need to hook up the electricals still but drove it to work this morning and the comfort and seating position is so much better for me. The seat bottom is probably about 1" higher than the stock seat bottoms so it will raise the driving position slightly. These seats have a 'tilt' adjustment for the bottom so with that adjusted lower it doesn't feel like you're sitting any higher.

Need pics of mounting brackets.

 

[Box Rocket]

Need pics of mounting brackets.

Brackets were pretty simple. Some 1” tube with tabs at the ends for bolting the rails to the frame and two “feet” in the right spots.
Be warned, these rails are wide and barely fit. The raised rib in the floorboard needs to be modified (flattened) where it starts to go vertically over the transmission hump. Also, rails push against the stock door pockets a little when the door is closed.

Front frame. Note recess cut out for slide adjuster.

Rear frame passenger side. Note the tabs on the frame are on top of the tubing instead of the bottom like the fronts.

Finished.

 

[BerettaMato]

Looks great.

 

[suttonkb]

Hey boss have you done any steering upgrades? Moved anything forward of the axle?

 

[Box Rocket]

Hey boss have you done any steering upgrades? Moved anything forward of the axle?

Not really. No real need for “upgrades” but I have replaced knuckle studs and tie rod ends. Swapping to HD tie rod and drag link is a good move but I haven’t done that yet.

 

[suttonkb]

Not really. No real need for “upgrades” but I have replaced knuckle studs and tie rod ends. Swapping to HD tie rod and drag link is a good move but I haven’t done that yet.

Have you had any flex "issues" with the steering binding with it sitting behind the axle at droop? I was thinking of doing the hell fire knuckles but it looks like you do just fine with stock.