Yup.
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- Thread starter
- #43
Let me start by saying thanks for everyone's input, evryone helps with great ideas and guidance. I need to report that the FLC (I'll let you figure out what the F is for) brakes are still Crap.
They Dont Stop!
A reminder of all the work that was done (Feels like a wasted time!!!)
They are all adjusted to the point of the wheel barely turning (that's the only thing stopping this POS.)
WTF Am I missing? Bled the wheel cylinders by disassemble and re assemble, compressed them and bled the lines. What else can we do, besides dynamite?
A very pissed off Boaf!
They Dont Stop!A reminder of all the work that was done (Feels like a wasted time!!!)
- Replaced all the rubber hoses for the brakes,
- Replaced all the Brake tubes in the front
- Three new Brake cylinders
- New Shoes
- One new Master cylinder
They are all adjusted to the point of the wheel barely turning (that's the only thing stopping this POS.)
WTF Am I missing? Bled the wheel cylinders by disassemble and re assemble, compressed them and bled the lines. What else can we do, besides dynamite?
A very pissed off Boaf!
Sorry to hear that!
Does your brakelines have part that goes upward longway? I meen if you start from master cylinder and go from there it starts to go down and after that if there is part that goes longway up it could trap air that is pretty hard to get out. Propably not the case with your car, but might be something to consider? I actually havent ever seen this happen on a car. There was a motorcycles clutch that was needed to bleed backwards to get all air out bacause of this.
I think you need to start narrowing it down to see witch part of your brakes this problem is. Have you thought of to plug master outlets and see if there is a leak in the master cylinder seals?
Does your brakelines have part that goes upward longway? I meen if you start from master cylinder and go from there it starts to go down and after that if there is part that goes longway up it could trap air that is pretty hard to get out. Propably not the case with your car, but might be something to consider? I actually havent ever seen this happen on a car. There was a motorcycles clutch that was needed to bleed backwards to get all air out bacause of this.
I think you need to start narrowing it down to see witch part of your brakes this problem is. Have you thought of to plug master outlets and see if there is a leak in the master cylinder seals?
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
It is a known problem that the aftermarket cylinders do not allow proper bleeding ... You need to disassemble them to get all the air out
Thought you were going to do that when you replaced the rubber lines?
Thought you were going to do that when you replaced the rubber lines?
- Thread starter
- #46
Disassembled the Aftermarket wheel cylinders and filled them with fluid, and sealed them up for re-install, Made sure the lines were purged of air before connecting. This is crazy stuff...
I just find it hard to believe that both front system and rear system can have air, but it has to be, I can't think of anything else... I'll dis assemble the aftermarkets one more time and see what happens.
I just find it hard to believe that both front system and rear system can have air, but it has to be, I can't think of anything else... I'll dis assemble the aftermarkets one more time and see what happens.
skully3
SILVER Star
not saying this is possible in this case, but on some cars and trucks they allow you to install wheel cylinders and calipers upside down with the bleeder at the bottom. this causes huge sores from head scratching frustration. It is impossible to get the air out with bleeders in the bottom position. 2nd I have seen clamps that wrap around rubber hoses rust and swell to the point where they constrict the back flow of brake fluid. Is it possible some of the clamps holding your steel lines are suffering from the same thing? You wouldn't notice by bleeding because when you bleed and apply pressure it takes the path of least resistance and squirts out. Just a though good luk! edit: I do believe that the cut out in the backing plate allow you to put the wheel cylinders is either way. been awhile for me.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
if you replaced the Master... you could very well have air in front as well as the rear
- Thread starter
- #49
I'm sure there is air in the lines.
- I will pull the after market Wheel Cylinders, dis-assemble,
- fill them with fluid, plug them and
- re-install with the plugs in the brake line holes.
- Thread starter
- #50
OK All, as above, one wheel at a time.
All lines were purged and pushing no air bubbles. Need to be methodical and see what's next.
Question about the Booster: I am aware of the adjuster under the dash, and today made some adjustments to push the rod closer to the the Master cylinder. I also noticed the rubber dust boot is ripped. I mentioned in the beginning of this post, I hear a moan when stepping on the break every time.
That rod is mechanical (I am assuming) and pushes directly on the Master Cylinder. The Bottoming out of the pedal suggests I've reached the end of the hydraulic compression pressure. So the questions:
Boaf
- Compressed cylinders with a clamp
- Removed after market cylinders, filled with fluid installed seal vertically, and then rotated seal to ensure no air pocket.
- re-installed, bled, stepped on the brakes with the same result
Question about the Booster: I am aware of the adjuster under the dash, and today made some adjustments to push the rod closer to the the Master cylinder. I also noticed the rubber dust boot is ripped. I mentioned in the beginning of this post, I hear a moan when stepping on the break every time.
That rod is mechanical (I am assuming) and pushes directly on the Master Cylinder. The Bottoming out of the pedal suggests I've reached the end of the hydraulic compression pressure. So the questions:
- Adjusting the rod away from the booster, will that allow more brake fluid in the MC for compression (or is that foolish).
- The Booster only assists and does nothing for braking power. If a booster fails, you only have to push harder on the brakes.
- Would the ripped rubber boot some how Not allow the brake rod to push on the Master Cylinder?
Boaf
Did you bench bleed the master? Did you take it apart in any way? There's a side screw that fits between the two pistons and reassembly must be done just right. If it's not right the pedal will bottom out.
It is entirely possible to get bad parts new in the box (much less likely if you buy new OEM). Figure out how to bench test each component separately, like pushing pressure into a gauge or a kinked line to make sure the master holds pressure.
It is entirely possible to get bad parts new in the box (much less likely if you buy new OEM). Figure out how to bench test each component separately, like pushing pressure into a gauge or a kinked line to make sure the master holds pressure.
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Is there possibility that your brakepedal is not comming up all the way?(Maybe stuck booster or something) Then it could be that your master cylinder isnt getting enough fluid in to the cylinder to push slave cylinders all the way out before bottoming?
I went through these same issues on my 77 quit a while ago, so let me see what I remember. I ended up temporarily pluging the distribution block (front/back where rubber line connects axle) to confirm where the issue was and it turned out to be the rear on mine. I also remember disassembling the wheel cylinder in place while making sure the master didn't run out of fluid while submerging the seal and reassembling. This is a messy job, but assured that there was no air when assembling. I would think if this was done on the bench, that there could still be a chance of air migrating to the dome in the cyclinder when reconnecting the hard line back.
I myself threw in the towel and ordered rear discs, While I was waiting for my discs to be delivered, my flee mechanic was the one that kept his nose to the grind stone and finally got a hard pedal after speaking with Mark from Mark's Offroad.
I myself threw in the towel and ordered rear discs, While I was waiting for my discs to be delivered, my flee mechanic was the one that kept his nose to the grind stone and finally got a hard pedal after speaking with Mark from Mark's Offroad.
- Thread starter
- #55
Thanks FJRoss, I have resided to the fact that there must still be air in the lines even though they bleed well. The messy work will start shortly and removing each cylinder and soaking them, I did this before putting on new lines. But since the new lines, I think it needs to be re-done. What a Pain!
If FJ40's were cheap and easy then everyone would have one. 
- Thread starter
- #57
Indeed, I agree.If FJ40's were cheap and easy then everyone would have one.
- Thread starter
- #58
All,
Received a new brake booster today from CruiserParts.net. It is approximately 1 inch smaller (9" vs. 10") in diameter than what is on there now. Since CruiserParts.net sent me the wrong version of emergency flasher, I am suspect of this being the correct part.
Were there improvements that allowed for a smaller brake booster? should I be concerned? I will call them Monday but prefer to hear the opinions here as folks are more knowledgeable on this forum than the re-sellers pushing parts inventory.
Thanks.
Boaf
Received a new brake booster today from CruiserParts.net. It is approximately 1 inch smaller (9" vs. 10") in diameter than what is on there now. Since CruiserParts.net sent me the wrong version of emergency flasher, I am suspect of this being the correct part.
Were there improvements that allowed for a smaller brake booster? should I be concerned? I will call them Monday but prefer to hear the opinions here as folks are more knowledgeable on this forum than the re-sellers pushing parts inventory.
Thanks.
Boaf
Need to see a pic.
- Thread starter
- #60
Here is the pic, but the size is difficult to tell (which is why I didn't include it) All spacing appears to match up. Thanks Racer.
