Bolt on turbo kit (8 Viewers)

[Bludozer]

Burnouts not possible with the auto unless you take it to the local hockey rink.

That is a more than acceptable compromise. I would be happy to watch that video.

 

[CHDAZ80]

Some observations after driving the turbo for a few days:


Absolutely F-ing LOVE it!! OMG! It really makes the rig way more fun to drive. .

I’ve only taken it up to 80 mph so far.
Big, heavy, lifted, & front sway bar currently unattached. I don’t think I’d be comfortable maintaining much higher speeds with LA traffic. There is always a lot of cars on the road.

Upon initial driving I had a half-tank of 87 fuel. Mashing the throttle to the floor, I would be getting some engine clatter noise (predetination?).
After topping off the tank with 91, the amount of noise went down.
I’ll re-assess after I have a full tank of pure 91 fuel. Currently 1/2 87 & 1/2 91 octane.

I did install the 14in1 gauge into the rig. Water temp sensor was installed between engine & upper radiator hose. Right into the flat circular area of the engine side before radiator hose.
Comparing my ScanGauageII & new display, the water temps are off from anywhere between 3-7 degrees. Averaging at about 5-6 degrees.
14in1 shows the hotter of the temps.
Consistent freeways speeds of 70-75 mph, rig is running about 200 degrees. Scangauge under 200, 14in1 a little over.
It does seems to be running warmer after install.
I would be interested to hear what others temps are at.
Last night, 11pm. Westbound 91 freeway from the 110 freeway til Bellflower Bl exit. I was getting a very slight temp creep from about 200 to 206 on the 14in1 (5 degrees cooler on OBD2 gauge), when I exited the freeway. It was a flat 10 mile stretch.
Temp dropped several degrees after exiting.
Joey what was your experience of the test mules?

I do smell a toasty smell from engine bay. I do have a lot of new wiring under the hood, so I’m not sure if it’s all just settling in.
I do feel the main wiring loom is close to all the new exhaust. I’ve never felt it before to see how toasty it originally got, so I have no imperial data, could just be my OCD worrying.
I’m not sure if they make split-loom Insultherm to wrap that, or making a sheath similar to A/C line would be beneficial right there.
Just a question/observation.

A/C condenser dripping. Drips onto new down pipe. I’m not concerned at all, but it was a scary sound the first time I heard the popping & sizzling sounds it made just after parking the rig.

Now that I have new gauges, I have an oil temp sensor. It does show hotter than the water temps by maybe 15 degrees. I’m guessing that is what oil temp should be?

AFR’s are typically about 15.

Overall extremely satisfied. A VERY well built, high quality, system & components. A+ Joey & Ryan.

Thanks for the #s!!

Some observations after driving the turbo for a few days:


Absolutely F-ing LOVE it!! OMG! It really makes the rig way more fun to drive. .

I’ve only taken it up to 80 mph so far.
Big, heavy, lifted, & front sway bar currently unattached. I don’t think I’d be comfortable maintaining much higher speeds with LA traffic. There is always a lot of cars on the road.

Upon initial driving I had a half-tank of 87 fuel. Mashing the throttle to the floor, I would be getting some engine clatter noise (predetination?).
After topping off the tank with 91, the amount of noise went down.
I’ll re-assess after I have a full tank of pure 91 fuel. Currently 1/2 87 & 1/2 91 octane.

I did install the 14in1 gauge into the rig. Water temp sensor was installed between engine & upper radiator hose. Right into the flat circular area of the engine side before radiator hose.
Comparing my ScanGauageII & new display, the water temps are off from anywhere between 3-7 degrees. Averaging at about 5-6 degrees.
14in1 shows the hotter of the temps.
Consistent freeways speeds of 70-75 mph, rig is running about 200 degrees. Scangauge under 200, 14in1 a little over.
It does seems to be running warmer after install.
I would be interested to hear what others temps are at.
Last night, 11pm. Westbound 91 freeway from the 110 freeway til Bellflower Bl exit. I was getting a very slight temp creep from about 200 to 206 on the 14in1 (5 degrees cooler on OBD2 gauge), when I exited the freeway. It was a flat 10 mile stretch.
Temp dropped several degrees after exiting.
Joey what was your experience of the test mules?

I do smell a toasty smell from engine bay. I do have a lot of new wiring under the hood, so I’m not sure if it’s all just settling in.
I do feel the main wiring loom is close to all the new exhaust. I’ve never felt it before to see how toasty it originally got, so I have no imperial data, could just be my OCD worrying.
I’m not sure if they make split-loom Insultherm to wrap that, or making a sheath similar to A/C line would be beneficial right there.
Just a question/observation.

A/C condenser dripping. Drips onto new down pipe. I’m not concerned at all, but it was a scary sound the first time I heard the popping & sizzling sounds it made just after parking the rig.

Now that I have new gauges, I have an oil temp sensor. It does show hotter than the water temps by maybe 15 degrees. I’m guessing that is what oil temp should be?

AFR’s are typically about 15.

Overall extremely satisfied. A VERY well built, high quality, system & components. A+ Joey & Ryan.

Thanks for the #'s report! 15 afr is pretty lean, are you seeing that during acceleration under boost?

 

[jjdeneen918]

Awesome to hear!



Engine pinging is very very likely the result of low octane fuel. "Clatter" to me would be a different noise. Please check the 90º silicone hose that drops down into the turbo. The clamp holding it onto the intake tube rests right at or above the air filter canister. While driving, that clamp is very likely knocking on the air canister producing that noise you are hearing.

I run that hose down to pull it away from the air box. I think I’m not describing the sound correctly. It is a noise that only happens when throttle/RPM are at the very upper limit.

Expected. I have an inline hose coupler with a sensor on the top hose on my SuperCharged truck and it too reads about 5º warmer than what the ScanGuage shows.

So should I base temps off the OBD port, or as a safety, try to keep the higher reading number lower?

How is your fan clutch? I can't recall if you replaced that. In the Test Mule I never hit 200º while on the frwy, day or night.

I’ve owned my rig for 11 tears & about 40,000 miles. A few years after ownership I bought all new cooling components from CDan, while he was still at America Toyota. New radiator, water pump, blue fan clutch, t-stat, hoses. So I feel, even if it was 8 years & 35,000 miles, should be pretty new parts.
Do you think I need to up the oil weight in the fan, what about the other color clutches, anything better?


That is the turbo blanket. It will go away after a handful of cycles.



I have some F6 Woven wrap that I used. Its good to about 450º, here is the spec sheet:

https://www.techtoolsupply.info/manuals/f6w-spec-sheet.pdf

Otherwise you could use the same stuff I supplied for the AC line.

What do you feel would work better? Will you sell me some if you have some left?



You know what, I had hoped that I was indeed about a 1/4" away from that drain but depending on how much water drains will depend how it flows out. I have a feeling about half will notice this and there are other variables to consider. I will look into this some more.

I was looking at the drip last night. The water is running along the edge of a heat shield looking thing & dropping at the corner edge of the metal. So something on mine might be slightly bent & relocating the drip point.

I'm not sure but logically that makes sense IF you are doing some "spirited" driving because that spools up the turbo and the oil is doing its job by removing heat and lubricating.



An AFR of 15 is running lean. It will feel more powerful but its not as good on the motor. Others will have more to detail here.

I think the 15 was at idle. And while cruising. I’ll pay more attention to number while accelerating.

Glad to hear!

 

[jjdeneen918]

I don’t know how to multi-reply to a post.

The above post is a little messed up.

My answers & questions in dropped into Joeys response. I bolded & underlined my replies.
Still looks confusing.

 

[NLXTACY]

@jjdeneen918

So should I base temps off the OBD port, or as a safety, try to keep the higher reading number lower?

I would base it on what the ECU sees. The other reading is your backup.

I’ve owned my rig for 11 tears & about 40,000 miles. A few years after ownership I bought all new cooling components from CDan, while he was still at America Toyota. New radiator, water pump, blue fan clutch, t-stat, hoses. So I feel, even if it was 8 years & 35,000 miles, should be pretty new parts.
Do you think I need to up the oil weight in the fan, what about the other color clutches, anything better?

The blue hub from CDan would have been a stock fan clutch. Since you are dealing with the same temps I do I would definitely bump up the CST in that clutch. OEM is close to 2500cst, you need 15k+.

What do you feel would work better? Will you sell me some if you have some left?

Yeah I will see what I have coming in.

I was looking at the drip last night. The water is running along the edge of a heat shield looking thing & dropping at the corner edge of the metal. So something on mine might be slightly bent & relocating the drip point.

Hopefully thats the case. I spent a good amount of time trying to make sure this wouldn't be an issue but there is no way to account for the subtle differences between 22 year old trucks

I think the 15 was at idle. And while cruising. I’ll pay more attention to number while accelerating.

Let us know.

 

[NLXTACY]

I don’t know how to multi-reply to a post.

The above post is a little messed up.

My answers & questions in dropped into Joeys response. I bolded & underlined my replies.
Still looks confusing.

I used to be a code monkey in a past life. No worries, I fixed it above.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Thank you Joey! I ordered the “modified” blue clutch off you website just now.

 

[Heckraiser]

I think the 15 was at idle. And while cruising. I’ll pay more attention to number while accelerating.

If so, that's fine. Charge up a hill at WOT and stare at your gauge, then report back. Hopefully it will drop to 11ish while you're running over the baby strollers and nuns.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Idle, cruising, full throttle. The display only changes between 15.3 to 15.8. It’s doesnt seem to change based on throttle response. It’ll change a few decimal points & stay that way for a while, then randomly change. I think I’ll need to trouble shoot it, something seems wrong with it.

 

[TYM4FUN]

Idle, cruising, full throttle. The display only changes between 15.3 to 15.8. It’s doesnt seem to change based on throttle response. It’ll change a few decimal points & stay that way for a while, then randomly change. I think I’ll need to trouble shoot it, something seems wrong with it.

Yeah, something isn't right...You are running a wide-band sensor, correct?

 

[jjdeneen918]

Yeah, something isn't right...You are running a wide-band sensor, correct?

This is what I’m running.

Spartan 2 Wideband By 14Point7 With Bosch 4.9 Sensor :: Buy Here

The Spartan 2 wideband from 14Point7 comes with a genuine Bosch 4.9 oxygen sensor, one of the best wideband lambda controllers on the market.

www.justraceparts.com.au

 

[scottryana]

Where is the sensor mounted? There is something wrong, did it need to be free air calibrated? If it is behind the cats it will not work.

This is what I’m running.

View attachment 2089934

Spartan 2 Wideband By 14Point7 With Bosch 4.9 Sensor :: Buy Here

The Spartan 2 wideband from 14Point7 comes with a genuine Bosch 4.9 oxygen sensor, one of the best wideband lambda controllers on the market.

www.justraceparts.com.au

 

[haulin auss]

As someone in the middle of this I came to the conclusion that pretty much OEM is the way to go. Other than I will be doing head studs and a Cometic HG. My builder is using Clevite main bearings as the OEM in the size I needed were discontinued. If your plans include future piggyback fueling and more boost then you may choose to upgrade other components.

This is what I did too.

 

[Heckraiser]

Idle, cruising, full throttle. The display only changes between 15.3 to 15.8. It’s doesnt seem to change based on throttle response. It’ll change a few decimal points & stay that way for a while, then randomly change. I think I’ll need to trouble shoot it, something seems wrong with it.

Well the good news is that it's almost certainly the gauge or the sensor because your truck would not be running that lean just idling or cruising. The ECU is pretty good at keeping it at or very near 14.7 under light load. Bad news is you now have to figure out what's up with the gauge.

 

[NLXTACY]

Sorry, busy day, but Scott and Heck already nailed it. FWIW, that Bosch WB sensor doesn't get a lot of love on reviews and is known for going bad fairly quickly.

 

[CHDAZ80]

If planning on doing meth injection would a lambda gauge be the way to go instead of afr?

 

[Corbet]

For anyone having a hard time justifying the turbo kit to their wife simply explain its for the good of the children.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Where is the sensor mounted? There is something wrong, did it need to be free air calibrated? If it is behind the cats it will not work.

It in the down pipe. Pre-cat.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Sorry, busy day, but Scott and Heck already nailed it. FWIW, that Bosch WB sensor doesn't get a lot of love on reviews and is known for going bad fairly quickly.

Well crap. Is there a direct Denso replacement?

 

[Wompom]

Well crap. Is there a direct Denso replacement?

Definitely look into if the sensor needs to be calibrated. If JRP sent you a bad sensor they should replace it.
Also please post up your final mount in the gauge thread!