For Sale Bluetooth Stereo 100% Hidden, only takes up the space of a dash knob! (Custom knob included) (1 Viewer)

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Not yet.
Issue with that is my 77 40 is in no condition to be a "model" for pics. However, I'm going to still move forward and get those pics done after cleaning the areas and hoping for the best.

I will post them here first!

Mounting the turn signals is up to the buyer. All they need is a hole. Cool thing about the signals is the wire loom stays hidden as its routed through the mounting bolt!
also interested in pics of the kick panel option!
 
My condolences :D

It’s not too late yet. I’m considering an MGB GT but don’t know when I’d drive it… the 40 is such a blast. It’s a sleeper with a quiet 350. Most people would never realize it’s not a 6 (unless they hear the secondaries open up.

Sometimes I miss my GT6… but I gather an MGB GT is a much more refined ride. I kinda liked a vehicle that was more on the edge.
 
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Got a question regarding the amp - since I'm running a single speaker for now, can the amp be bridged safely? I'm only running 12v to the unit, no upconverter.
 
How about this one? Waterproof and I could mount where the rear heater goes!!

GS4-8 Outdoor Weather-Resistant Omnidirectional Dual Voice Coil (DVC) In-Ground Speaker https://a.co/eFKoyAN

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It’s not too late yet. I’m considering an MGB GT but don’t know when I’d drive it… the 40 is such a blast. It’s a sleeper with a quiet 350. Most people would never realize it’s not a 6 (unless they hear the secondaries open up.
Heh

My 40 is a sleeper too. Mid-80s 350 and a h55f running 35s on widened oem 15s. Holley Sniper EFl, holley's hypersparlk ignition with the CD box snd coil. The PPO bought all the toys. Vintage A:C, Dakota Digital cluster.

When l bought it, it was pretty rough. The paint is bubbled rustic green, but l don't mind that. Easier to take into the rough. That first scratch on fresh paint is tough. Patina rules.

But it didn't run well.

Had a fuel leak, way too much advance, GM steering was wildly loose (mounting plate had broken the weld, loose mounting bolts), no caster shims on an OME 2.5" lift the PO did to clear the tires, but three hangers were backwards.

Both rear brake cyls were leaking, needed shoes too. The parking brake (which the PO added to the split case) didn't work. The AC belt was loose, so the Vintage Air would only blow cool at idle. One brake hose hanger was hanging from the hose. The PCV valve was cracked in half, so it was a vacuum leak.

I asked about 2 or 3 things (“who did this?”) but got the same answer: “my mechanic”. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

The PO had removed and replaced the HT and crushed the gaskets in the process, and they’d put a cute little 12" steering wheel and some really ugly mirrors on it. Fortunately the truck came with the original mirrors and steering wheel.

So l fixed all that. Moved the seat back 2”. Since the top had to come off to replace the hardtop and cap seals, l bought the stainless bolt sets from Metric TLC. Re-pinned the locks so the truck has 2 OEM keys, one for the rear doors, the other for everything else.

Then l put the cool tune on the truck. (Misspent youth with 2 1970 Dodge Challengers, a 68 GTO and a 76 Firebird.)

It runs. 😝

Twice now I’ve had people in more modern cars (a 3-series BMW and a very new H**p) try to put a move on me and twice l've stuffed them back where they were. I guess nobody expects the 60 year-old dude in the ugly green truck to do much.

Reminds me of the 40’ boat we owned in Hawaii that was a “down hill special”. Canoe hulled, so it would surf waves in following seas and winds, but the ugliest thing on the water. This is it in 2009. l'm not on it that year because l'd just survived emergency open heart surgery, and my wife wouldn’t let me go. My boat partner took his son and the U Hawaii sailing team.

About the only thing I’ve not fixed on the 40 is the stereo (*). One speaker is out. You would think I fix that, right? 🤣🤣

(*) and the paint. Yes the shackles are still reversed in the pic.

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I’m planning on buying this for my FJ40.

The previous owner has 4 speakers set in the rack currently. If I wanted to continue this setup, what would be the best option? Per the formula, if I was running 2 on each channel, it would be 1/(1/x + 1/x)
Where x is the ohms of each speaker. So running 4 ohm speakers would give me 2 ohms per channel which would be too hot for it. Would I have to run 8 ohm speakers in order to achieve the best set up?

That would give me 4 ohms per channel. Or am I just doing my calculations completely wrong? Sorry if these questions are reviving a dead horse to beat it more, but I’m very inexperienced with car audio.
 
You could put the front and rear in series
Or (better) just connect the fronts since there is no fader.
 
You could put the front and rear in series
Or (better) just connect the fronts since there is no fader.
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They’re all in a row like this. I’m probably going to end up scrapping the speakers and setup and buying new aluminum to mount my own. I don’t particularly care for the mounted lights either. Are there any speakers you would recommend for this stereo?
 
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They’re all in a row like this. I’m probably going to end up scrapping the speakers and setup and buying new aluminum to mount my own. I don’t particularly care for the mounted lights either. Are there any speakers you would recommend for this stereo?
That looks like head trauma. Cool but risky, no?
 

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