I have a black one sitting on a shelf . . .
Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter landtank
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I have a black one sitting on a shelf . . .
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Is the 3FE fan a good pair with a tuned blue hub on a stock 1FZ?
I have seen some folks touching on the use of a 3FE fan, but have not seen anything conclusive.
Thoughts?
I have seen some folks touching on the use of a 3FE fan, but have not seen anything conclusive.
Thoughts?
John (inkpot) and I are running them with our S/Cs
NLXTACY
Wits' End
As am I.
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The 1FZ fan is better, unfortunately the spacing is wrong, so wont fit with the S/C. The S/C kit comes with the ring fan off of a 3.slo, a weak fan, the 3FE fan smokes it for that application. If you can run the 1FZ fan, it's best, for S/C rigs, the 3FE fan is a significant upgrade to the 3.slo fan.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Ok I finally got the 30k CST in. I put the spring half of the clutch in a water bath to heat up. I pointed the laser temp gun at the spring "propeller" as opposed to the water. At 95deg nothing happened. At 132deg the spring "propeller" barely started moving. At 150deg it was about 1/4 of the way open and at 162deg it was fully open. There is no "stage". The spring's propeller just turns to open up. It does this slowly as the temp climbs, from fully closed to fully open.
So now I'm trying to understand what exactly I'm adjusting. I do see two screws that are there and are "adjusted" to dead center. I'm still really unsure what I'm supposed to do.
Do I loosen and when it starts to turn at 95deg tighten the screws? I'm just not understanding the adjustment.
So now I'm trying to understand what exactly I'm adjusting. I do see two screws that are there and are "adjusted" to dead center. I'm still really unsure what I'm supposed to do.
Do I loosen and when it starts to turn at 95deg tighten the screws? I'm just not understanding the adjustment.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Ok I think I get it now. I removed the two philip screws and saw that the entire plate in there comes out and can rotate. I turned all the way to one side of the adjustment and it opened up at 161deg. Doh! Wrong way. I'll adjust all the way to the other side and see what it nets me. BTW, and maybe I missed this in the 4000 page thread, but wouldn't bending the spring on the front net you about the same result without having to crack it open?
Thanks for documenting the process, my clutch is here and the 30k fluid will arrive tomorrowand I need to get this knocked out.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I'm pointing at the screws in particular.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Are you not rotating the plate until the valve hole is half way closed at 95 degrees as indicated by the procedure outlined in Landtank's original write-up?
I don't think I would mess with trying to adjust the spring. I would suspect it would be difficult to adjust it so it puts off the exact spring resistance that is required for this whole shabang to work right. I wish they were somehow replaceable since they are not able maintain the proper resistance over time.
I don't think I would mess with trying to adjust the spring. I would suspect it would be difficult to adjust it so it puts off the exact spring resistance that is required for this whole shabang to work right. I wish they were somehow replaceable since they are not able maintain the proper resistance over time.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I adjusted it so that it already started opening at 97deg. Its a 40-45deg improvement over stock. I'm going to start here and see how our 120deg summer days do on it. Now that I understand it I have no issue taking it apart again and trying again to fine tune it. That being said I don't want to go too nuts because then I will wind up adjusting it to work well in summer but not so much in winter. We'll see.
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The temp that you are looking for is the temp of the thermostat spring on the other side. Have no idea of the relationship of the temp of the valve shaft, but likely isn't the same as the spring. I saw large inconsistencies when attempting to use the water bath, switched to hot air (like it works in the rig), measure the temp of the spring and it's much more consistent, not to mention faster, easier, etc.
- Thread starter
- #675
Joey. That is how I adjust them and use 15k oil. 30k seems a little high but am interested in how it performs
The other thing is that I wipe off any oil from the valve blades and back side if the plate to avoid any influence on the adjustment.
The other thing is that I wipe off any oil from the valve blades and back side if the plate to avoid any influence on the adjustment.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
True. The temp of the water vs the temp of the fan clutch body vs the temp of the spring shaft WAS all over the place. BUT the reason I went with the temp on the shaft was because it was direct coupled to the spring itself. It may expand at a different rate but that doesn't mean it won't transfer over the same heat...necessarily.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
After reading posts from Phil, Claudia and Kevin, I think 30k will better suit me since I'm in the middle of the blast furnace and I have the S/C. I have a feeling its going to be loud, alot. On the plus side, since I'm running the RD radiator with the tighter fin pack, that extra fan power may come in handy. The valve blades had no oil but I did not wipe off the back of the plate. Even though there was very little oil there, I probably should have wiped it down. Next time.
- Thread starter
- #678
Well I get my motor back in a week and will be following you shortly. I know turbocruiser used a RD rad with some good results.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Turbo was my motivation.
Planning on getting it all dialed in by end of the day. I just have to find some aeroquip 6AN fittings for the trans lines. They didn't use nipples. I guess its good, just wasn't prepared for it.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
I did the same thing yesterday. The original adjustment was right in the middle as your pictures show, and my final adjustment was about where yours ended up. I didn't drain mine though, I topped it up with about 30 mL of 20000, which should give me about a 12000 final viscosity. If i decide I need to tweak it a bit later on, I have some 10K, 20K, and 30K to play around with.
