Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk

[BirfMark]

Im having a hard time agreeing with you....I live in the one of the hottest places on the planet and Im set at 125°ish and have not seen 200° water temp driving this summer. My 80's normal running water temp is 188°-193° with AC and outside temp of a 110°+ How much better can it get given the conditions? I do have a snorkel

I'm curious as to where are you getting your temps from? Stock sending unit via scangauge? Aftermarket temp gauge with different sending unit location? IR temp gun?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I'm curious as to where are you getting your temps from? Stock sending unit via scangauge? Aftermarket temp gauge with different sending unit location? IR temp gun?

OBDII port

 

[SiRaDuDe]

Those are good numbers...

Id your Fan Clutch STOCK UNMODIFIED or have you altered it in any way? Like OIL viscosity or replacement.

 

[landtank]

Tools, I have no idea why the spring changed so much. It seemed to freely turn with my hands it was just not responding as it did 5 years ago.

Phil, read the thread as I'm not inclined to repost everything from day one of this thread.

The short of it was, I had a 4 month old blue fan clutch that was my cause for over heating. I did some lengthy tests and determined that adjusting the timing as I described to 95* cured the problem along with higher CST oil.

I subsequently, 5 years later, checked that adjustment and it had moved substantially to where it was prior to the initial adjustment. Since I know that will cause over heating I replaced the clutch.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Tools, I have no idea why the spring changed so much. It seemed to freely turn with my hands it was just not responding as it did 5 years ago.

Phil, read the thread as I'm not inclined to repost everything from day one of this thread.

The short of it was, I had a 4 month old blue fan clutch that was my cause for over heating. I did some lengthy tests and determined that adjusting the timing as I described to 95* cured the problem along with higher CST oil.

I subsequently, 5 years later, checked that adjustment and it had moved substantially to where it was prior to the initial adjustment. Since I know that will cause over heating I replaced the clutch.

Sorry I just find it odd that most of the modded fan clutches in our area (Phoenix AZ) are "timed" around the 125° mark, some with superchargers and and are able to deal with our 115° heat. It is my nature to question why one would need to be "timed" at 95° where its not even hot. Could something else be wrong?

 

[fj4068]

Phil, I know Tools has talked about measuring the fully open & fully closed temps using a heat gun, rather than than LT's half-open, water bath method. Which one are you talking about?

 

[landtank]

Sorry I just find it odd that most of the modded fan clutches in our area (Phoenix AZ) are "timed" around the 125° mark, some with superchargers and and are able to deal with our 115° heat. It is my nature to question why one would need to be "timed" at 95° where its not even hot. Could something else be wrong?

That was 5 years ago, however the truck had a new rad at the time and the clutch was new as well.

At the time I went through many drive cycles at different settings in an attempt to identify what I thought was the best setting. That doesn't mean that the engine was overheating at a higher setting, just that I thought this setting produced better results than higher ones and going any lower didn't really make much of a difference.

And here in the North East we see 100* days with 90% humidity. The air is a lot heavier and harder to move.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Phil, I know Tools has talked about measuring the fully open & fully closed temps using a heat gun, rather than than LT's half-open, water bath method. Which one are you talking about?

Heat gun to emulate the air coming off the radiator at the same distance. A Fluke meter with a thermo coupler on the spring.

Set at 95° opening here in AZ it would be open before you even started the engine.

 

[landtank]

Set at 95° opening here in AZ it would be open before you even started the engine.

Yes but that would be the first stage where there is very little shearing surface for the fluid. Unlike the black clutch were this area is very dense with shearing surface.

It has been mentioned that the black hub clutches flow more air during an idle state which would indicate that advancing the blue's timing shouldn't be an issue.

I heat soaked two new clutches last week and can tell you that the timing was substantially lower than your 125* setting.

 

[Jaronimo]

ok hey guys

, I
what can be done to the hub to allow it to keep spinning at high engine rpm and low vehicle speeds besides drilling a bolt through it? i know they will cut out due to the speed of the engine and the fan blade im guesing the silicone fluid cant handle the load,

can someone make an air operated hub like prime movers use cos its a little scary to watch the temp gauge in these situations when you are in heavy load soft sand and hills etc

 

[Taco crawler]

Good info a lot to read to check out the blue fan and to modify. It
Can u modify the Aisin FCT-004 clutch the same as oem ?

 

[NLXTACY]

can someone make an air operated hub like prime movers use cos its a little scary to watch the temp gauge in these situations when you are in heavy load soft sand and hills etc

How could would that be?

 

[DSRTRDR]

Good info a lot to read to check out the blue fan and to modify. It
Can u modify the Aisin FCT-004 clutch the same as oem ?

FCT-004 is the blue hub clutch - yes, you can juice it

 

[Taco crawler]

Thanks for that. Now is the mod hard to juice it up
From 1-10 1 - easy 10-go buy it already done

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

easy...Here's how i do it. This may have been already posted.

Remove some of the antifreeze with a turkey baster down to the fins. Save for reuse.
Disconnect the top radiator hose(s) and pull back towards the engine.
Unbolt the radiator fan shroud.
Loosen the belts. Power steering, alternator, smog, etc.
Unbolt the fan clutch assembly (4) 12mm nuts.
Remove fan clutch assembly with the shroud. Pull out and up.
Unbolt and remove the fan from the clutch.
Heat up the oven to 200 f.
Brake loose the large phillips screws that hold the two sides together. This can be kinda tough. Place in a vise. Make sure you have the right size large phillips bit and an impact works great. A screwdriver with a wrench attached works as well. I brake loose the screws to avoid having to do so after it has been heated to 200f.
Place clutch in oven for an hour or so. Have a beer or two.
Remove, mark both halves, unbolt and separate the two halves. You will notice a large o-ring. You will be reusing it.
Drain both halves (1 hour? more or less)
Fill with http://www.amain.com/product_info.p.../Mugen-Silicone-Differential-Oil-15000wt-50ml
Install in reverse.

Or purchase one completely modded from landtank.

 

[Tools R Us]

Why make it so much work?

easy...Here's how i do it. This may have been already posted.

Remove some of the antifreeze with a turkey baster down to the fins. Save for reuse. I don't do this.
Disconnect the top radiator hose(s) and pull back towards the engine. Or this.
Unbolt the radiator fan shroud. Yep.
Loosen the belts. Power steering, alternator, smog, etc. I don't do this.
Unbolt the fan clutch assembly (4) 12mm nuts. Yep.
Remove fan clutch assembly with the shroud. Pull out and up. I just flex the passenger side of shroud back and work the fan/clutch out.
Unbolt and remove the fan from the clutch. Yep.
Heat up the oven to 200 f. I don't do this.
Brake loose the large phillips screws that hold the two sides together. This can be kinda tough. Place in a vise. Make sure you have the right size large phillips bit and an impact works great. A screwdriver with a wrench attached works as well. I brake loose the screws to avoid having to do so after it has been heated to 200f. An impact makes short work of the screws.
Place clutch in oven for an hour or so. Have a beer or two.
Remove, mark both halves, unbolt and separate the two halves. You will notice a large o-ring. You will be reusing it.
Drain both halves (1 hour? more or less) I just stand the halfs in a pan and allow to drain overt night.
Fill with http://www.amain.com/product_info.p.../Mugen-Silicone-Differential-Oil-15000wt-50ml
Install in reverse.

Or purchase one completely modded from landtank.

It's pretty simple.

 

[Taco crawler]

Getting ready to do the mod to double check all I need to refill is 2oz of 20k oil right or does it take more ?

 

[RDM303]

How critical is it to mark both halves of the clutch? I separated my new blue hub last night and forgot this step.

 

[Blade]

you guys always talk about the blue or the black hub...
What about the orange and red hubs? Does anyone of you ever heard of it?
This is a list I found... the Toyota dealer in Holland said I should install a orange one with my 1HZ Turbo.
Interesting to know: the 10'000Cst oil is by the way NOT available through Toyota anymore I was told...
I got the blue one with 65ml of about 9000Cst and still not working very strong, although better as before!
Here the list:

16210-17010 [blue = cold zones]
16210-17040 [will be superceeded by #1/blue]
16210-17050 [green = moderate zones]
16210-17070 red/orange for warmer zones (Aisin FCT-030 I THINK)

 

[landtank]

From my experience a dump and fill on a blue hub fan clutch even with 20k cst or heavier won't be as effective as 15k cst and tuning it.

As for the 1hz, I've gone through and opened one up and it's the same internals as the blue clutch and did the same procedure on it as I did on the blue.