Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landtank
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30k in one blue hub; 10k in the other; no complaints related to viscosity.
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- Thread starter
- #603
I'm now filling them with 15k.
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Depends on the clutch, they respond differently to viscosity. Early black/blue Aisin ~10K, Eaton ~15K, new blue Aisin ~20-25K.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
I am currently running 15K in my late model blue hub, but may up it come spring to 20-25K
BenMara
Asian Redneck
anyone have one go bad after 6 months?
More details so this question can have an adequate response.
BenMara
Asian Redneck
ok replaced rad, fan clutch, belts, in oct 2010, past month temp has been getting hotter, less then a needle with from red, so let it idle in drive way after driving down road and gettin warm, never came down even after idle 30 min. only other culprit is thermostat......
Edit: Looks like the coolant level has gone down over the monts of sitting, but filled and temps are fine
Wonder if its time for a Head Gasket job time.......
Edit: Looks like the coolant level has gone down over the monts of sitting, but filled and temps are fine
Wonder if its time for a Head Gasket job time.......
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- Thread starter
- #609
one of the first things that I had a question about was how the different oils sold through the hobby stores were rated. Some are in cSt and others in W or Wt.
I found this site that had everything broken down and which manufacturers where using the preferred cSt standard on their oils.
I thought it would be helpful for those who wanted to buy some oil and be sure they got what they expected as far and performance change goes.
I found this site that had everything broken down and which manufacturers where using the preferred cSt standard on their oils.
I thought it would be helpful for those who wanted to buy some oil and be sure they got what they expected as far and performance change goes.
- Thread starter
- #610
UPDATE:
I'm heading out to Moab shortly and wanted to do a drain and fill on my fan clutch.
As part of this I decided to check the timing adjustment that was set back in 2006 at the beginning of this thread.
Short story is that the clutch is JUNK!
The timing had shifted from 95* to 130* and there was not enough adjustment to come even close to where I wanted it. If you go back and look at the original pics you can see that the plate was adjusted almost to it's limits initially.
I ended up swapping in a new clutch timed and filled with 15k oil.
This isn't the first time I've seen clutches go south like this. Once you are out of adjustment room you just have to toss them in the trash, no increase in CST with over come this.
I'm heading out to Moab shortly and wanted to do a drain and fill on my fan clutch.
As part of this I decided to check the timing adjustment that was set back in 2006 at the beginning of this thread.
Short story is that the clutch is JUNK!
The timing had shifted from 95* to 130* and there was not enough adjustment to come even close to where I wanted it. If you go back and look at the original pics you can see that the plate was adjusted almost to it's limits initially.
I ended up swapping in a new clutch timed and filled with 15k oil.
This isn't the first time I've seen clutches go south like this. Once you are out of adjustment room you just have to toss them in the trash, no increase in CST with over come this.
Has anyone just replaced the clutch with a solid hub for the fan? ie, direct drive.
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The stock fan is not designed to run at full shaft speed, so the only way would be a different fan, like a flex fan. I don't see the need, the clutch is reliable, efficient and can be made as powerful as needed. IMHO, flex fans suck.
I had a flex fan on one of my 60s. Never did like it. MIke
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Did you determine the cause of failure? Bimetallic springs are very reliable, there are only a couple of failure modes? I have referbed several in the 300k mi range, and even there, never had this issue, but also rarely deal with rust.
I'm pretty sure he meant that when the clutch was heated, the the point at were the little hole was 1/2 opened was at 130* and there was not enough play with the screws to have it set for the hole to be 1/2 opened at 95*
In other words when he turned the thermostat adjusting screws there was not enough play to reach the desired temp setting and the clutch would end up at full available adjustment at a temp that it too high.
If above is true why would you want it to open at 95°
I thought that the whole idea of the BLUE fan MOD was to make it open at 95*.
That is to make the clutch engage at a lower temp (timed), therefore maintaining the coolant temp lower.
Anything higher and the coolant temp seem to stay on the high side, THAT was the whole IDEA of this thread... or did I miss something.
I thought that the whole idea of the BLUE fan MOD was to make it open at 95*.
That is to make the clutch engage at a lower temp (timed), therefore maintaining the coolant temp lower.
Anything higher and the coolant temp seem to stay on the high side, THAT was the whole IDEA of this thread... or did I miss something.
Im having a hard time agreeing with you....I live in the one of the hottest places on the planet and Im set at 125°ish and have not seen 200° water temp driving this summer. My 80's normal running water temp is 188°-193° with AC and outside temp of a 110°+
How much better can it get given the conditions? I do have a snorkel
Phil, what oil thickness are you running in the clutch? Those are pretty good numbers.
