Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (1 Viewer)

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I am going to replace my oil as part of prep for a turbo. What is the recommended weight oil? Truck will operate in everything from -40c to +30c. where is the best place to get it?

-40c ...... is pretty cold temperatures.
5000cst oil will be OK for you. Because as i know the 5000cst is the lowest available viscosity for silicon oil.

Your jeep must be having an extra cover for the radiator too? Because when the temperatures are super cold, then its important to cover radiator to warm up the engine.
 
I've read the first 15 pages of this thread and the last 5. Somewhere in the middle it seems that the consensus changed from blue hub with 3K-10K fluid to blue hub with 15K-30K fluid.

I ordered Aisin blue hub fan from Amazon and 20K oil. Started the mod process last night. My clutch was 1/2 opened at 121*F and fully closed at 114*F. I went to loosen adjustment screws and stripped 1 using a brand new #2 phillips head driver. :bang: Probably worth buying a J.I.S. screwdriver to do this mod.

I'll try using a Dremel to slot the stripped screw head tonight and remove with a flathead screwdriver. My plan is to then refill the clutch with 50ml of 20K silicon fluid.
 
I've found JIS to not be worth it. My #1 phillips however does everything I have ever asked it to do on this rig. I don't remember ever seeing a screw with a dot on the head and there hasn't been a screw I have stripped since having a #1 handy. And my drivers are made by milwaukee....
 
I've read the first 15 pages of this thread and the last 5. Somewhere in the middle it seems that the consensus changed from blue hub with 3K-10K fluid to blue hub with 15K-30K fluid.

I ordered Aisin blue hub fan from Amazon and 20K oil. Started the mod process last night. My clutch was 1/2 opened at 121*F and fully closed at 114*F. I went to loosen adjustment screws and stripped 1 using a brand new #2 phillips head driver. :bang: Probably worth buying a J.I.S. screwdriver to do this mod.

I'll try using a Dremel to slot the stripped screw head tonight and remove with a flathead screwdriver. My plan is to then refill the clutch with 50ml of 20K silicon fluid.
for another reference point.....i live in so cal and i replaced mine with 10k recently. when my 1fz is warmed up and sitting idle at a stop light i am holding at 194.
 
I've found JIS to not be worth it. My #1 phillips however does everything I have ever asked it to do on this rig. I don't remember ever seeing a screw with a dot on the head and there hasn't been a screw I have stripped since having a #1 handy. And my drivers are made by milwaukee....
i too use milwaukee screwdrivers...has worked just fine for me too:clap:
 
Alright, bringing this topic back up to make sure I did this correctly. This is a new Aisin blue fan clutch. I heated it up to 95 degrees (measured from the middle) and adjusted til the control plate is dissecting the window. The screws were tightened at this point and the other half was filled with 15K oil. I was able to drain about 40mL out and put about 50mL back in.

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ordered Toyota LandCruiser 70 / 80 /100 1hdt 1hdft 1hdfte Ultimate Fan Cooling Upgrade Kit - https://www.4x4andcamping.com.au/products/toyota-landcruiser-80-1hdt-ultimate-fan-cooling-upgrade-kit I have changed the oil in my fan hub a few yrz ago, but lately the temps towing and on the beach have crept up again, and do not return to normal at idle like they used to, having a big front mount and trans cooler is an added strain on the system
So what is the verdict Stuart?
 
mint, no more cooling problems
Fixed my problems too.
I made my own adaptor plate and fitted the Mitsubishi blades to a new blue hub, which I re-oiled with thicker oil and adjusted to come on a bit earlier.
It worked a treat, but I will use less oil next time as it took ages to release from a cold start, about 4km.
There was no mistaking when it locked up, ...sounded like I had mud tyres on it, but a small price to pay.
I have a 100 HDFTE now, but it is auto and I want to make sure the trans fluid stays cool, so one of these will suck enough air through the cooler to do that.
 
anyone mind helping me figure out how to adjust this or if i have a clutch that is not adjustable?
i checked the temp (without oil in it but not totally sure about that part) and it seems to be totally open at 120d F but by the time it drops down to 95 d F the holes are totally closed. and my understanding is you want the holes half open at 95. so i'm thinking i should adjust it?
anyway i undid the two bolts here but they don't seem to rotate relative to the clutch. and the bar that provides the coverage seems tied to the temperature coil on the exterior. so i don't see how it can be adjusted?
thanks for any help.

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anyone mind helping me figure out how to adjust this or if i have a clutch that is not adjustable?
i checked the temp (without oil in it but not totally sure about that part) and it seems to be totally open at 120d F but by the time it drops down to 95 d F the holes are totally closed. and my understanding is you want the holes half open at 95. so i'm thinking i should adjust it?
anyway i undid the two bolts here but they don't seem to rotate relative to the clutch. and the bar that provides the coverage seems tied to the temperature coil on the exterior. so i don't see how it can be adjusted?
thanks for any help.

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i see what i was doing wrong. it's actually the disk in the interior with the two holes in it that rotates relative to the housing and the two screws.
anyone got a picture showing how they registered the original location of this inner disk to the outer housing? i seem to have missed that step. also is the inner disk physically attached to that bar in some way? it has a little bit of "return" on it like it's on a spring or something.

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Appears I have the orig fan clutch - see pic (not blue). No adjusting screws. Can I drain existing fluid and replace with the 30k I purchased? Joey’s turbo going in this week.

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Appears I have the orig fan clutch - see pic (not blue). No adjusting screws. Can I drain existing fluid and replace with the 30k I purchased? Joey’s turbo going in this week.

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I think you may need the orange hub fan clutch since you are going with Joey Turbo Kit. Of course, wiser cruiser guys can chime in.

 
I think you may need the orange hub fan clutch since you are going with Joey Turbo Kit. Of course, wiser cruiser guys can chime in.

The orange hub is used on SC trucks so the fan clears the drive belt. Turbos run a regular blue hub clutch.
 
After reading all the reviews and raves about changing to thicker oil in the clutch i decided to try it with 20k oil and even did the 95 degree temp adjustment on my new style blue hub fan and after that long and annoying ordeal of replacing almost every screw do to them stripping I got it all put back together and as usual nothing I do seems to get this old rig working the fan doesn't lock and roar on start up even the next day after the oil went to the lowest point and ac still doesn't work.
 
After reading all the reviews and raves about changing to thicker oil in the clutch i decided to try it with 20k oil and even did the 95 degree temp adjustment on my new style blue hub fan and after that long and annoying ordeal of replacing almost every screw do to them stripping I got it all put back together and as usual nothing I do seems to get this old rig working the fan doesn't lock and roar on start up even the next day after the oil went to the lowest point and ac still doesn't work.
Good chance that you have other compromised parts in the cooling syste.system.. the whole concept was developed at our shop in Mesa by ToolsRUs, RIP, and it has been very consistant for us. Can you drop by the shop?
 
Good chance that you have other compromised parts in the cooling syste.system.. the whole concept was developed at our shop in Mesa by ToolsRUs, RIP, and it has been very consistant for us. Can you drop by the shop?
I live about 3 hours away in Lake Havasu City so wouldn't be able to get to Mesa for a while but what else could cause the fan not to lock up? When I got my 94 fzj80 a couple years back everything worked great for a few months that is with a US Motor Works hub then at the tail end of summer it all stopped working when I noticed it getting hot and that hub not engaging so I went with a blue hub and that didn't change a thing but then my axle seals gave out and so it sat for the last year until I had time to rebuild them as well as trying a second blue hub and nothing changed so thats where I am today with doing the mod and still no preverbial Roar from the fans it used to.
 

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