Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (1 Viewer)

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So I Sent Aisin an e-mail with a link to this thread asking them if they could explain why they changed the clutch. I never really expected an answer. But today I got a phone call from Aisin and an entire group of engineers on speaker phone asking for me to elaborate about the issue. I'm not the expert on the issues but now seem to be the middleman between us and them. So I'm going to start a new thread about this issue and will post what I hear from them. So please go and post what information and questions you have pertaining to this issue. It is very rare that any company would be interested in what we have to say. Just goes to show Aisin cares about it's customers.

Go here. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...n-clutch-product-development.html#post3889665
 
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I have a 3FE green hub in testing with 7,000 cst. I've never had a problem with the cruiser overheating, but more air flow = lower head pressures in the condenser = colder a/c, so I figured wtf. Despite what I read on page 8 or 9, the green hubs are serviceable, but we shall see how well they respond.

A black hub that came off of the 94 listed below is one that I will service shortly, and will go on my brother's 95 cruiser today. He's getting 10,000, or a partial drain and 30,000 cst. I haven't decided.

Thus far, I like the air flow with the revised green hub, and I know the high side ac pressures have dropped at idle.

I'll report on the fuel economy on the 3FE later, but the old green hub that I yanked would have achieved 14.5 mpg easily. For a 200K+ mile motor that isn't bad, and 250K is closing fast. :D

The reason why I posted here is to contradict the comments pertaining to the serviceability of the green hub'ed clutches. Carry on.
 
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...
A black hub that came off of the 94 listed below is one that I will service shortly, and will go on my brother's 95 cruiser today. He's getting 10,000, or a partial drain and 30,000 cst. I haven't decided. ...

If it has significant miles on it, I would change all of the fluid. If the old fluid is worn, broken down, it will reduced the life/performance of the mixture.

...
The reason why I posted here is to contradict the comments pertaining to the serviceability of the green hub'ed clutches. Carry on.

I have never seen an Aisin or Eaton clutch that wasn't serviceable. Next up on the project list is a 2002 Sequoia, have done most Toyota models:hillbilly:.
 
I recently purchased a new blue hub fan clutch and two tubes of 6000cst oil from CDan. While trying to adjust the temp setting I stripped out the head of one of the screws you need to loosen in order to make the adjustment. This left me with new upgraded oil and no adjustment in temp setting.

I am looking for opinions as to whether or not it is worth the hassle to get the damaged screw out and make the adjustment. The clutch opened at around 125 degrees.

I live in Phoenix, and my truck is black, so I am looking for any upgrade in cooling that I can get that is reasonable in cost and low in aggravation.


Thanks,

GB
 
Thanks Kevin.

sent you a PM.
 
ok.. I broke down and ordered this from McMaster today. Hoping when I tackle the setting screw, it wont strip on me......

McMaster-Carr

Japanese Industrial Standard JIS Screwdriver Standard Style, #1 Tip, 3" Blade Length
Japanese Industrial Standard JIS Screwdriver Standard Style, #2 Tip, 4" Blade Length
Japanese Industrial Standard JIS Screwdriver Standard Style, #3 Tip, 6" Blade Length
 
ok.. hopefully worth the investment :)
 
Anyone:
How are the Japanese phillips head screwdrivers different from ?SAE types?

What is the recommended weight oil to use with a current production Toyota fan clutch for the US?

Found this link:

http://www.pierfishing.com/tackle_tips/9911.html
 
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Anyone:
How are the Japanese phillips head screwdrivers different from ?SAE types?

Taper and pitch of the slope on the point are different. I have a cool set of Toyota screwdrivers that I got from CruiserDan but they are sadly, no longer available.
 
you need a Japanese Philips screw driver to avoid stripping out those screws. I have one and never have had any problems breaking them loose. IMO the blue clutches should be timed.
Rick,

Thanks for your input, and for all your work on this mod.

Kevin has been kind enough to offer me his help with this so the adjustment will get done.

I followed the link that Citadel provided to McMaster and looked at the set of JIS screw drivers. I will be putting in an order for a set shortly so I don't have this problem with any other screws that are JIS.

Thanks,

GB
 
UGH. getting the fan clutch off was a simple enough 5 min task. But man, what do you have to do to get these screw broken lose to separate the fan clutch? I'm tempted to use a #3 bill and power them off but afraid of stripping the heads. I've soaked them in PB and there is no rust or oxidation on the fan clutch, just dusty. :bang:
 
They come off really easy with an impact screw driver. Multiple different types but the one I have used many times was a cheap hand held one I picked up at Sears that you just hit with a hammer. And yes #3's are good I believe.
 
UGH. getting the fan clutch off was a simple enough 5 min task. But man, what do you have to do to get these screw broken lose to separate the fan clutch? I'm tempted to use a #3 bill and power them off but afraid of stripping the heads. I've soaked them in PB and there is no rust or oxidation on the fan clutch, just dusty. :bang:

Standard tight Phillips screw deal: Support the clutch under the offending screw on something solid, bench edge, vice, anvil, etc. Select sharp, proper fitting driver (in this case I use a P3). Put the bit or screwdriver in the screw and solidly smack it with a hammer then back the screw out, I use a 3/8" dr impact. Hitting it with a hammer does two things, broaches the screw to perfectly fit the driver and the downwards impact loosens the screw.
 
At the old machine shop we had some really bitchin impact screwdrivers but I guess I just never figured that it would be a good choice for the fan clutch. Good to know.
 
Here's the old one that came out.... :eek:

Just a quick confirmation: is this an Eaton clutch? If so, I understand it only takes 10,000 CST, right?

thanks.

edit: sorry, his pics didn't load. Anyway, my clutch has Torx screw heads, not phillip screws.
 

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