BJ74 Restoration and LHD Conversion has begun!
- Thread starter Shes Mad
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Wayne, I _think_ the flip down windshield needs to have the driver's wiper post come up in a different spot; the cowl is stamped for it, it just needs to be drilled. This would make the control arms shorter.
The reason I think that is that no amount of bending, wiper arm swapping, or anything could get mine _perfect_.
I got it close enough to work. But, after looking more carefully at the cowl, it makes sense that there is another place for the post to come through, therefore having a different position to the windshield.
In a pinch, you could move the post, then cut/shorten the control arm between the passenger wiper arm post and the driver's. Then patch the cowl cover. Then bend/shorten the wiper arm. But finding the right parts shouldn't be too hard. You might even try Proffitts. They had a bunch of mine trucks, some of them were early HZJ75's... and they used the parts for the HZJ79's... but they would not have used those parts since they are different on the HZJ79. Just a thought.
crushers
post ho
well, the part numbers are definately different. my bad for my assumption.
the control relay you want is 85160-90K01
the cool arms are RH - 85190-90K01 LH- 85210-90K01
these collaspe when you fold down the windscreen. the fixed units have to be removed to lay the windscreen down.
i am going to measure the locations of the ragtop and the fixed top and report back.
the control relay you want is 85160-90K01
the cool arms are RH - 85190-90K01 LH- 85210-90K01
these collaspe when you fold down the windscreen. the fixed units have to be removed to lay the windscreen down.
i am going to measure the locations of the ragtop and the fixed top and report back.
- Thread starter
- #84
I haven't heard back on the wiper issue yet, so I went ahead and made another mount for it. The firewall is pretty much in and done, and I will be putting a coat of 2K primer surfacer on it. I need to give a little more attention to the top corners. I will also put a coat of base color on it, since I can't get to all of it when bolted together.
Once that is done, I'll be cleaning up the aprons, fenders, core support to get them ready for paint on the inside. I plan on getting it painted when it is together, so I have to get the insides primed and a coat of base on them before it all gets bolted together for final prep and paint.
Once that is done, I'll be cleaning up the aprons, fenders, core support to get them ready for paint on the inside. I plan on getting it painted when it is together, so I have to get the insides primed and a coat of base on them before it all gets bolted together for final prep and paint.
- Thread starter
- #85
I finished the priming today. 2K primer applied to the firewall, pillars, core support and the inside of the fenders. I will be scuffing and wet sanding it tomorrow, and spraying some color on it.
- Thread starter
- #86
I got some color on it. Basically this was just to get some color in areas where it would be difficult when assembled. I will be scuffing this all, then assembling the front. It will get another coat of base, then clear when the final paint is done.
- Thread starter
- #87
I have been out of town a lot, so I was not able to get much done. However, it's starting to come together.
Today I got most of the sheet metal bolted back on. I was pretty pleased at how all the gaps and lines came together. Nothing that bothers me more than big hood and door gaps, or uneven gaps. I got everything on but the rear doors. They need to be taken apart and cleaned before I bolt them back on. Then it will be going to paint!
It's starting to look like a truck again! It really sits high with the new springs, and little weight on it. The Ironman springs are only 2.5" lift, but I must have had 2" +of sag in the old ones. It's about 6 inches higher than it was since it has no weight on it!
Today I got most of the sheet metal bolted back on. I was pretty pleased at how all the gaps and lines came together. Nothing that bothers me more than big hood and door gaps, or uneven gaps. I got everything on but the rear doors. They need to be taken apart and cleaned before I bolt them back on. Then it will be going to paint!
It's starting to look like a truck again! It really sits high with the new springs, and little weight on it. The Ironman springs are only 2.5" lift, but I must have had 2" +of sag in the old ones. It's about 6 inches higher than it was since it has no weight on it!
boozewz
SILVER Star
Looking sharp!
Keep it up.
What tire size do you plan to run?
Keep it up.
What tire size do you plan to run?
- Thread starter
- #89
I plan to run 33 inch tall tires. Probably 285 75 16 or similar. They hit the RPM range right where I liked it.. I haven't finalized the rim choice yet though
crushers
post ho
curious, have you been keeping track of your hours?
- Thread starter
- #91
Not really. I probably get 15 hours a week, so since I started Nov, that would be 180+ hours so far
Sound right?
Last edited:
crushers
post ho
180 X $60 = $10,800
yep, i would say pretty close.
i had a guy contact me to do a LHD conversion and he was saying shops were doing it for $5K. i had been thinking "not a chance of a quality job for that price".
my guesstimate was $15K for labor plus parts for a top notch job.
your thread proves my guesstimate to be close.
by the time you are done, i would say you saved about $15K in labor.
cheers
yep, i would say pretty close.
i had a guy contact me to do a LHD conversion and he was saying shops were doing it for $5K. i had been thinking "not a chance of a quality job for that price".
my guesstimate was $15K for labor plus parts for a top notch job.
your thread proves my guesstimate to be close.
by the time you are done, i would say you saved about $15K in labor.
cheers
60$ an hour your cheep.... 5k to do the swap maybe in parts alone..
As many have said wish they sold new ones here as it would be cheeper than what we are all doing.. Time and $$ wise..
Nice color choice looks really good
As many have said wish they sold new ones here as it would be cheeper than what we are all doing.. Time and $$ wise..
Nice color choice looks really good
- Thread starter
- #94
If it was just as simple as dash change, steering gear change, cut new fire wall holes and weld up old ones, but it's not. It should look like it came LHD from the factory when done. That is a top notch job.
crushers
post ho
agree ...
Looks good Roger.
- Thread starter
- #97
Thanks Travis!
I have not made much progress to speak of. With all the sheet metal fitted back on the body, I need to get the bodyman to work! He is busy, so I may need to look elsewhere.
I have been cleaning parts on the engine/Trans assembly. I am going to have to reseal the transfer case, as it was leaking. But I noticed the rear output shaft is pretty grooved, so I am wondering if that was the only leak? Could it be that simple? I would hate to speedee sleeve it, only to find out the leak was elsewhere when the unit is back together. Come to think of it, most of the oil was around there---I actually thought it might be the speedo housing. Also when I pulled the 4WD shifter off, the connector fell down in the hole, so I don't know how to get that back up---it is flush with the housing now. Probably have to push it up from the inside. What to do....
Anyway, the trans is clean, the engine partly disassembled, and some parts cleaned and painted/powdercoated. Pretty big pile of part to go through yet. Still need to get the engine gasket set before I go any further on the block, so I am focusing on parts---lots of parts
- Thread starter
- #98
Just thought I would post a pic of the cleaned up trans/Transfer case
Just thought I would post a pic of the cleaned up trans/Transfer case
What method did you use to clean up the transfer case housing? (abrasives, chemical cleaners or a combination?)
Love the work and progress you are making. Keep up the hard work and the posts. Thanks
- Thread starter
- #100
What method did you use to clean up the transfer case housing? (abrasives, chemical cleaners or a combination?)
Love the work and progress you are making. Keep up the hard work and the posts. Thanks
[/SIZE][/FONT][/QUOTE]
I power washed it, then I sandblasted the transmission and transfer case. It stands up nicely on the bellhousing, so you don't have to move it around. Then I sprayed it down with carb cleaner, and sprayed it with Alumiblast from Eastwood. Then painted the transmission with black engine enamel.
Love the work and progress you are making. Keep up the hard work and the posts. Thanks
[/SIZE][/FONT][/QUOTE]
I power washed it, then I sandblasted the transmission and transfer case. It stands up nicely on the bellhousing, so you don't have to move it around. Then I sprayed it down with carb cleaner, and sprayed it with Alumiblast from Eastwood. Then painted the transmission with black engine enamel.
Last edited:
