- Thread starter
- #41
BJ74 Restoration and LHD Conversion has begun! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Shes Mad
- Start date
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The external sensor is behind the front bumper on the Right side I believe, the interior one never got installed as I could not get it working. I may still have it here. PM me your mailing address and if I can find it I will throw it in the mail for you if you want it.
- Thread starter
- #43
For all of you who want to do body work but don't know how , here is a good link ....http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=print&thread=65793
- Thread starter
- #45
I prepared the frame and body for sandblasting tonight. Tomorrow it is going to be near 70 degrees in Minnesota the day before thanksgiving. Unbelievable good luck! I took the day off so I could sandblast the frame and bottom of the tub, and paint the frame outside. The paint is really messy, so I am going to take advantage of the last nice day I can do this outside before winter really sets in.
I cut most of the rust spots out of the tub, most in seams. I will sandblast this tomorrow, and get some paint on the bottom of the tub to keep it from rusting until I get the firewall cut out and the new one installed.
I didn't cut out the rust on the right floor, because I do not know how much I an going to take out when I replace the firewall. I will address it then.
More pics tomorrow!
I cut most of the rust spots out of the tub, most in seams. I will sandblast this tomorrow, and get some paint on the bottom of the tub to keep it from rusting until I get the firewall cut out and the new one installed.
I didn't cut out the rust on the right floor, because I do not know how much I an going to take out when I replace the firewall. I will address it then.
More pics tomorrow!
crushers
post ho
take a hammer and beat the factory liner material. the vibrations usually cause it to let go and you can take it off in large chunks.
slide a chisel or puddy knife under the loose piece, hammer on the adheared piece and when it lets go, proceed with the wedge till it lets go.
if you try and sandblast then the stuff just heats up and rolls like a wave and takes FOREVER to come off.
just a suggestion.
slide a chisel or puddy knife under the loose piece, hammer on the adheared piece and when it lets go, proceed with the wedge till it lets go.
if you try and sandblast then the stuff just heats up and rolls like a wave and takes FOREVER to come off.
just a suggestion.
like this;
- Thread starter
- #48
I will be taking that stuff off, and probably replace with dynomat or similar for sound deadening. (Any preferences from members here?)
Focusing on the bottom today
Focusing on the bottom today
The butyl roof stuff from your local building store should do the same job is red many times on th net. and dont gonna stink like bitumen based roofing stuff.
its cheaper than the brand stuff for car sound deadening.
there are also peaple using liquid stuff for that on the inside of the car but dunno if thats good idea.?
while youre doing that id recomend also a sound absorber material next to the vibration dampener you mentioned then idl make a nice diffrence while driving
its cheaper than the brand stuff for car sound deadening.
there are also peaple using liquid stuff for that on the inside of the car but dunno if thats good idea.?
while youre doing that id recomend also a sound absorber material next to the vibration dampener you mentioned then idl make a nice diffrence while driving
crushers
post ho
if you check the BJ70 restoration build you will see what i am using. i like it cause you can remove, oil or rust proof or check for rust and reinstall.
heat and cold retention as well as sound deadening.
not the perfect stuff but cheap and removable.
heat and cold retention as well as sound deadening.
not the perfect stuff but cheap and removable.
- Thread starter
- #51
I did get the sandblasting done, but painting had to wait. CHristmas lights trumped Shop work!
- Thread starter
- #52
I looked through your threads and couldn't find the posting
Nice project ! and place ! you do it 100% thru as i see !
- Thread starter
- #54
A little update. I did some welding and patching on the body tub. Not finished, but here is what I accomplished so far.
Also painted up some parts that I had cleaned up. Since I was driving this before teardown, there was really nothing I needed to do with the axles except reseal the front, They are both tight, brakes were good, and no leaks. So I sandblasted and painted up the rear. I hope to have the parts to finish the front axle later this week--just the seals and new brake pads is all I am doing to it.
I sent the frame off to the powdercoater. I hope to get it and the front end seals by this weekend. Then I can get everything installed on the frame, and free up some room in my shop. I have half finished stuff laying all over!
Also painted up some parts that I had cleaned up. Since I was driving this before teardown, there was really nothing I needed to do with the axles except reseal the front, They are both tight, brakes were good, and no leaks. So I sandblasted and painted up the rear. I hope to have the parts to finish the front axle later this week--just the seals and new brake pads is all I am doing to it.
I sent the frame off to the powdercoater. I hope to get it and the front end seals by this weekend. Then I can get everything installed on the frame, and free up some room in my shop. I have half finished stuff laying all over!
Bambino840
Jive Turkey
I got the 74 down to the frame, ready for sandblasting. Since I am also doing a LHD conversion, I needed to make the frame ready for the steering box. There is support in the frame for the box on the 70, but not on the 74. So I cut the support out of the 70 frame, and opened up the 74 frame, inserted the support, and closed it back up. Pretty easy job.
There was a welded nut in the support from the 70 that is part of the frame in the 74, so I just cut that part our of the 70 support before I put it into the 74.
[URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00968.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00968.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00968.jpg"][/URL][/URL][/URL]
[URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00967.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00967.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00967.jpg"][/URL][/URL][/URL]
[URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00969.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00969.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00969.jpg"][/URL][/URL][/URL]
Here is the insert
[URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00966.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00966.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00966.jpg"][/URL][/URL][/URL]
I used the steering box bolts to pull the frame back together, and welded it up.
[URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00970.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00970.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00970.jpg"][/URL][/URL][/URL]
[URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00971.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00971.jpg"][URL="http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq29/a550550/BJ74%20Conversion/DSC00971.jpg"][/URL][/URL][/URL]
That is where I am today. Next will be getting the frame and axles sandblasted, painted, reseal the axles and put the frame back together with new Ironman suspension. Then I will sandblast and paint the bottom of the body and bolt it back to the frame before I cut the firewall out for the LHD conversion.
I have experience with this mod not being done. It makes for some scary driving when you come off of the trail
Long as the pitman arm moves free and the drag link isn't at a extreme angle I see no reason moving the box would create any issues. The SAS minis have worse steering angles and handle and wheel great,
did I miss something??
Nice work , and she's mad is a great handle for a cruiser head as we all deal with that...
did I miss something??
Nice work , and she's mad is a great handle for a cruiser head as we all deal with that...
- Thread starter
- #57
I got the frame back from the powdercoater, and it turned out great!. I started to bolt some parts back on, and install the new Ironman springs. Then ran into a question.
I am putting the Ironman 2.5 lift on. The springs are TOY008B fronts and TOY007ANS rears, with antireversing shackles. Do I need to put in castor shims? I got the setup from ACC Toyota, and they did not mention anything about the shims, but I have read that I should install some 4 degree shims for 2 1/2 inch lift, which is what this setup is rated at.
Any thoughts?
I am putting the Ironman 2.5 lift on. The springs are TOY008B fronts and TOY007ANS rears, with antireversing shackles. Do I need to put in castor shims? I got the setup from ACC Toyota, and they did not mention anything about the shims, but I have read that I should install some 4 degree shims for 2 1/2 inch lift, which is what this setup is rated at.
Any thoughts?
crushers
post ho
isn't it nice to have something clean to work with?
looks like new, eh?
looks like new, eh?
- Thread starter
- #59
Yes it is. A little slow work, as I clean and paint as I go along. I am going to try and get the front axle in today. I took it apart, and the bearings and rotors needed replacing. I am just waiting for the knuckle bearings to arrive. I have everything else. I can install the axle without the hubs.
I also think I am going to wait and see if I need shims until it is finished, and take to the alignment shop. Then I have all the weight on the chassis, and the tires I will be running. They are not that hard to put in, especially when everything is clean. I might put longer pins in now, just in case I need shims, if I can find pins!
I also think I am going to wait and see if I need shims until it is finished, and take to the alignment shop. Then I have all the weight on the chassis, and the tires I will be running. They are not that hard to put in, especially when everything is clean. I might put longer pins in now, just in case I need shims, if I can find pins!
crushers
post ho
most car part places sell long pins that you can cut down, just add a steel sleeve over the pin at the head, about 1/2" to make sure it still connects fully with the axle housing.
i have started running nylon strip material between the leaves, makes the springs last long, ride smoother. just a suggestion. not cheap but worth every penny, in my books.
very few people have any idea how long it takes to do a job to the quality you are.
congrats.
i have started running nylon strip material between the leaves, makes the springs last long, ride smoother. just a suggestion. not cheap but worth every penny, in my books.
very few people have any idea how long it takes to do a job to the quality you are.
congrats.
