BJ42 refurbisment

[crushers]

new window wipe installed
the fiberglass door don't accept the original clips so the inner felts are a bugger to get to fit.

that is all till now, next week we rebuild the t/case, finish fixing the head light issue, go over EVERY bolt for torque, get the alignment completed, get the frame Krown'd and, if all goes well, deliver it to the rightful owner.

we'll see.

the one thing i hate most of all is when you have an electrical issue on a brand new part and find out that the IDIOTS that assembled the part didn't crimp the wires tight enough.
Light Force Lights, damn nice product but i just could not get the lights to work. turned out the female wiring wasn't attached properly, looked fine when you inspected but the connection wasn't there. TOTAL PITA to find.

anywho, such is life.

 

[lostmarbles]

Very neat & tidy engine bay Wayne.

The addition of a fan shroud would make it look factory perfect!



PS. Once again, thanks for posting all these pics of your shop's good work.

 

[Falco80]

Sensational!
I really like the little labels on the wires, such a great idea if you ever have to mess around with the wiring. It's clear to see you like to think things through and do them properly the first time.

 

[crushers]

thanks for the compliments
appreciated

 

[AllenTenT]

gorgeous !

 

[tmarx]

Superb work Wayne !

Really like the look of those front seats

 

[crushers]

when we went to change the fluids in the tranny/tcase the tranny was a couple liters high and the t/case was low. a sure sign the tranny output seal was gone.
the decision was made to rebuild the t/case

a really nice kit from Extreme bends was ordered up. EVERYTHING you need is in that kit.
first up, clean the case parts

 

[crushers]

the shift fork was badly worn as was the collar, both needed replacing. this is a sure sign of contamination combined with lack of fluid inspection/change.
torquing the companion nut.
starting the reassembly

 

[crushers]

using a slide hammer with a blind bearing tip to get the small roller bearing out.
assembled with a couple small things left to do.

 

[crushers]

getting ready for winter
removed the soft top and rear half doors and ready for storage
hard top inspected and ready for install
hard top installed with full rear doors
sealed up

tested the new sound system with the hardtop on, very nice

 

[crushers]

the wheels are torqued to 101 ft lbs
spare installed with hub cap, make it a bit more difficult for thieves to be able to steal quietly.
with the full cage we needed a new location for the visors
mark, drill, tap, install, test for clearance
done

 

[crushers]

after all the trouble with the 24V system running 12V head lights on a floating ground, the decision was made to go with 24V head lights with new relays. this brings the system to a normal High/Low/Ground.
nice lights, 70 watt 24V bulbs ($13 each to replace)

that is it for today, thanks for following along.

 

[romey]

oooh! so it's almost done!! how about a 360 degree pic all around and vid of the turboed 3b! and test drive vid!! hahaha!

i'm sad i wont be able to see this baby in person purring!

 

[NoeyR]

Sweet build Wayne! I hope to own a princess like this one day...

 

[boozewz]

Watching this build unfold is like going to the movies, only that its a million times better

Thanks crushers for sharing. Quality all around.

 

[1911]

Great build; would be close to my dream 40!

I'm going to have to re-locate my visors like that too, thanks for the idea.

 

[JohnnyC]

Nice job... Thanks for posting up in the 40 section... I never come here

Pakitop is still in great shape it looks like ... Snorkle built by you? Yes? It was a long read to catch up to present day... But don't recall reading that

 

[crushers]

the Pakitop is still in really nice shape, sadly the owner over pulled the straps ripping the material when the rear bars were not cut to proper length.
he made some real nice tops, i have installed a couple over the years ...

 

[crushers]

for those of you wanting to adjust your own headlights ...
http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/AimingTheHeadlights.pdf
works good for driving lights and fogs, fogs i aim lower since you want the fogs to go UNDER the mist, snow or fog and not be bouncing back off it and blinding you.

so we fired it up today, found that the primer pump is leaking like a sieve. it will be replaced someday down the road. starts really well, revs up nicely but once we have the crossover installed again then we can test the turbo and set the fuel.

the original block heater is leaking so tomorrow we are replacing with new.

bleed the PS.

did a rough setting of the toe-in using the home garage method so we can go for a break in run. the truck is heading in to the alignment shop on monday for proper settings. sure is nice to be working with brand new steering components.
the idler bushing in the steering column is not doing its job ... not sure why but will investigate.

i am happy so far.

we also installed the fire extengisher below the dash instead of on the floor.

i know, not much of an update but getting closer and closer ... starting to look like a real 40 again ... finally.

 

[numby]

I just read this whole thread and I am very impressed. I had no idea what was involved with fitting a fiberglass body. What you guys do to fight the effects of road salt and weather in the north country is nothing short of heroic. to all of you.

I have a couple of questions...

the tip was also centered on the tire so the flow of air from the tires will, or at least should, keep the fumes from flooding into the passenger compartment when the soft top is on.

Does this work? Is there really an improvement over running it out beyond the tire (cough! hack!).

Also, knowing nothing about these 'glass tubs, is there steel behind the door pillars where the front cage is attached? Any tie-in to the floor or frame?