Birf soup - using Marlin axle seals...confused! (1 Viewer)

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They may be showing the mini-truck/early Cruiser seal design.

The seal in the 80 is different, and has almost a flexible membrane supporting the sealing ring. So the seal can follow any runout in the axle shaft, at least to a point. The Marlin 80 seal lacks this feature, and is more of a traditional seal.

From my perspective, the Marlin seal in earlier trucks is an upgrade over stock. Bt I think the 80 series OEM seal is better in a full time 4wd application.
 
Gotta have the right tool for the job ;)

mybirfjobb8.JPG



I've only got about 8K+ miles on my repack with Marlin seals and they've been holding up fine, but the real test comes tomorrow when I drive 1200 miles non-stop back home to NYC :eek:
 
I'd be curious to see someone compare them side by side.

I found this little blurb in Marlin Crawler's forums.




I think we can all agree that the OEM seal is going to do better than the aftermarket...but the question is, how much better? Considering the aftermarket is the same design, I'd be extremely curious to see how they compare.

That is an early, 40, 55, 60, mini, type seal setup. It's what the seal was developed for, that type of seal is smaller, narrower and doesn't have the "bellows" setup. I agree, in that application it is an upgrade, not so sure about the '80 application, becoming convinced that the stock type seal will last longer.
 
Im going to switch back to OEM seals. I just did a repack about 3k ago and have seepage on both sides. The Marline seals look nice and beefy but looks like the OEMs seal better.
 
You should have some seepage around the ball and that is by design. It's a matter of how much is the question. The felt wiper seal should always be moist to keep the dirt out and the grease in and some seepage is necessary for this to happen.

However, the amount of seepage shown in my pics is clearly an indication of birf soup and that is not acceptable only after 15k miles of service with new seals.
 
Alia-

Since you are this far into the re-build, just curious, but did/have you price out the the full OEM front axle re-build kit form Dan?
 
I did my axle job just before the Marlin seals became popular here. I have been irritated that I used the "inferior" OEM seal once I saw the Marlins.

Now I'm relieved that I used OEM.
:)
 
Alia-

Since you are this far into the re-build, just curious, but did/have you price out the the full OEM front axle re-build kit form Dan?

Seals/gaskets and 4 trunion bearings (sans wheel bearings) are about IIRC ~$250.

I think the main difference we are seeing, as Kevin, Ali and Andy stated, is the part time front end (only hubs moving all the time) compared to the full time front end (all of the bits moving all of the time).

We'll have another data point here soon when I go into my part time set up 80 front end for a regear next month--I used the Marlin seals mainly as an experiment.
 
Thanks B-

Staying posted for your results. The front end rebuild is next on the list.
 
A little over a month ago, I did my front axle rebuild on my 80 using Marlin inner oil seals. Only about a thousand miles on it since but so far so good. I'll update as time goes on as well.

It's my camping and wheeling rig so in addition to highway driving it gets some moderate off road use (no major rock crawling though).

I hope to get many miles out of the marlin seals.

:cheers:
 
Thought I give you guys another data point from working on another 80 couple of days ago. This one had birf soup on the pass side and upon further investigation, I found the remnants of the OEM axle seal spring. It appears as though there are two springs inside an OEM axle seal. One of them had come off and quite possibly contributed to the birf soup in this case.
 
The OEM unit uses a coil spring that can stretch whereas the Marlin uses a simple wire loop that is open and can also stretch to a point. However, the oem spring is more sexy flexy by far.

At least that's according to my super calibrated fingers anyway...

I have read this whole thread..very interesting..

Just wondering from the pics on the coil springs... Could this be swapped OME to MC since they seem to be more flexible than that of a MC that uses a wire loop ?
 
I have read this whole thread..very interesting..

Just wondering from the pics on the coil springs... Could this be swapped OME to MC since they seem to be more flexible than that of a MC that uses a wire loop ?

You could likely swap the spring, but that isn't the main issue. The stock type design seal (I use aftermarket from Cruiser Outfitters, same design as stock) is very flexible, allowing it to flex, maintaining seal with axle movement/misalignment. The Marlin design is much more stiff/solid, so is more likely to leak/burp with axle movement/misalignment.
 
I did my rebuild about 7k miles ago with Marlin Seals and good so far .. I'll keep tabs on it hopefully I don't get soup anytime soon haha
 
Did my rebuild about 1000 miles ago and its leaking on the drivers side.....time for some OEM!
 
Did my rebuild about 1000 miles ago and its leaking on the drivers side.....time for some OEM!


You may have an axle that is grooved. If that's the case, OEM seal may not be able to handle the loose tolerance. See the info above about the wear groove.
 
Seals/gaskets and 4 trunion bearings (sans wheel bearings) are about IIRC ~$250.

I think the main difference we are seeing, as Kevin, Ali and Andy stated, is the part time front end (only hubs moving all the time) compared to the full time front end (all of the bits moving all of the time).

We'll have another data point here soon when I go into my part time set up 80 front end for a regear next month--I used the Marlin seals mainly as an experiment.

Hi Beno, How are those seals going? about to replace the inner oil seals on my part time 80.
 
Only thing I can add is the swivel hub might have been be riding high (or low) meaning the axle shaft is high (or low) on the seal.
That comes down to the swivel hub bearings and how they are installed plus the preload but I'm not sure HOW you make sure the axle runs in the dead centre of the hub and seal... I'm sure someone will chip in.. ?
 

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