Builds Billy's excellent FJ73-12HT - resto-modded - n that

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I spent a few hours yesterday prepping my 10 minute job. Snapped off bolt removed.

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Hole re tapped.
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Had to cut my drill bit down so the drill would fit between the leaf spring and the chassis.
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Fitted radiator and transfer case guards. Made from 4mm stainless steel.
Shouldn’t have any problems getting around Costco’s oversized speed bumps now!

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Since the new turbo install he occasionally blows the silicone elbows, I’ve mean meaning to have the aluminium pipes bead rolled for months now and because I was heading out on a 3 hour trip for a weekend of camping over the ranges again for the Leyburn Historic races I decided to get them done.
Also bought a tyre rack and gas bottle holder to free up more rear cargo space.
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They close the streets down and these things race around an old town.
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Pulled my old centre console out and fitted a fridge console. Had to make a base to contour the flooring and connect to the existing seat belt mounts. Move my sub box behind the driver and repositioned the fire extinguisher. Nice cold drinks now for the longer trips.
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Also repurposed my old console cup holders till I fab a new console to go around the shifters and up under the dash to take some switches, cup holders, gauges and UHF.
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Tested it out last weekend with some 4x4ing and camping. Gets warm drinks down to 2degC in about 20 mins and keeps it there. Which is great when your away from camp for most of day. It’s set to 0 but goes to -20 below ambient. Only runs at this point when engine is running which means aircon would normally be on.
Not sure if I would be running it while car is off as I’ll have a bigger fridge running elsewhere, but may run it off 2nd battery eventually?
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Pulled my old centre console out and fitted a fridge console. Had to make a base to contour the flooring and connect to the existing seat belt mounts. Move my sub box behind the driver and repositioned the fire extinguisher. Nice cold drinks now for the longer trips.
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Also repurposed my old console cup holders till I fab a new console to go around the shifters and up under the dash to take some switches, cup holders, gauges and UHF.
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My brain processes slowly sometimes. I was just rereading this and thinking ‘where’d he put the rear heater?’ Cause even in summer with the top off sometimes here I keep that thing running late. But
anyhow, we have a different version of cold I think. But ya got me thinking.
 
Sorted my tow hitch wiring so I could start towing a trailer on occasion.
I had only painted the rear bar with rattle can paint to stop it rusting thinking I’ll get around to powder coating or 2pac at a later stage so I removed the rear bar, cut in the double plug (7 pin trailer and Anderson) and also a hole for an air hose fitting before applying the 2pac primer and Raptor coating.
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Can’t believe how much wiring goes into the rear bar lights, indicators and plug. All soldered joints and heat shrink.
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I also sanded and primed my camper chassis again while I had some primer in the gun.
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Although I've backed off alot from work duties Frank's paying his way as a daily.

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I picked up another roof for the camper build, but turned out to be better than the original so keeping it and painting at later date if I decide to use on car.
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I cut the original roof down to suit and now gives me a starting point of what I'm trying to achieve with hinged camper lid.
Dropped the body off at a sandblasting joint who also primed it so I have a clean canvas for when I start cut and welding patches in.
I can now design the front box which will hold the kitchen pullout for fridge, hotplate and sink before I prime the lot in 2pac.
Link to camper build in my signature 👇
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Now the camper is made from one donor vehicle. Chassis, suspension, body tub, wheels and roof.(Ladder is from my boat, not sure if I need)
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Installed a new twin ARB compressor behind my fridge console then took the car in to have a rear air locker installed. Wasn’t comfortable setting backlash etc. still yet to fit airlines to rear bar.
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Removed my winch and started modifying a cradle so I can rotate it 90deg to get at controls better. I’ll need to remove and modify bar before getting it all welded in place, then painting and reinstalling, wiring etc.
thinking about putting the chrome 3 loop or modifying the chrome single loop also ?
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Started my midi fuse bar to tidy up battery area and to take the 12v extra accessories.
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Cleaned up the wiring from the added accessories as it was getting out of control and confusing. All fused and labeled.

BEFORE
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AFTER
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Still a couple of loose non active wires that have been run but not ready to connect.

Went for a bit of a wheel at Glasshouse Mountains.
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I’ve forgotten I hadn’t finished the very bottom of the flares. They were modified after doing the rear quarter chop but had left the final shape till after I fitted rear flaps so I could merge them together to look as factory as possible. Anyway I had a hectic downhill run that had a few drop offs along the way and caught the outside of the flare. Luckily my rear bar took the brunt of the bottom out.
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Repaired the paintwork on the bar and will repair the flare and reshape the end so it doesn’t protrude past the bar later.
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Simply awesome :)
 
Wiring winch and bar lights next.
Also replaced one of the accelerator springs on the throttle cable with a heavier stronger spring to try and fix the touchy throttle the 12HT engines are renowned for. I’ll see if it makes a difference when I go offroad next time. There are 2 springs so I’ll take the other one with me and swap it over if I need more tension to stop him from bunny hopping at low revs.
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Flew down south to the Blue Mountains in between for a break.
Went through an old train tunnel to have a look at some glow worms
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Capertee Valley is 1KM wider than the Grand Canyon but not quite as deep.
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A few loose ends tidied up over a couple of months.
1. Rubber seal to finish off the rear window. No function other than cosmetic as the window frame was sealed when I fabricated it years ago.
2. Rear vents to help air escape when closing the doors.
3. Rear roof brake LED light (off a hilux tail gate). I routed it into the FRP top, then applied polyester and fibreglass mat to the rebate before running the power in the rollbar down to the factory loom. I used a Deutsch plug behind the interior light incase I remove the roof.
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There isn’t a RH rear hinge aerial bracket on the market so I decided to make one. Used a piece of cardboard then transferred it to stainless.
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I also had 2 FRP badges made out of solid aluminium. Had a bit of trouble with the font but got it sorted. I did this so I could put 2 countersunk bolts through the face and nutserts behind into the FRP top. That way I can remove them easier to get at the bolts behind and not damage the paint work or break the pins in the plastic factory badges.
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