Builds Big Red Toy (1 Viewer)

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Mike,

Best option is ruled out -- Stitch n Lock or similar process, IMO

Next (if cast iron) would be to thoroughly clean and lightly grind a shallow groove, Get area upwards of 300F or a little hotter and weld with a NI55 or similar nickel based electrode... Then to assist in a SLOW cool down to help prevent re-crack, cover and pack the area with insulation until the temp has ramped down to ambient. Don't peak until a heat gun verifies the equalized temp..

IIRC -- I'll try and find it but Devcon?? makes an alloy friendly epoxy that will hold up the the temps.

If the base metal is cast aluminum go with a 4043 Aluminum wire. It has a lower Magnesium % (stay at or under 3%), softer and works the best in my experience. Even though 5356 is the most popular it is a bad choice for casting repairs.

GL brother.

J
 
JBWeld? I don't know if it will hold in that location or not. How much oil are you loosing?
Not too much, just enough to mark up my driveway.
 
Mike,

Best option is ruled out -- Stitch n Lock or similar process, IMO

Next (if cast iron) would be to thoroughly clean and lightly grind a shallow groove, Get area upwards of 300F or a little hotter and weld with a NI55 or similar nickel based electrode... Then to assist in a SLOW cool down to help prevent re-crack, cover and pack the area with insulation until the temp has ramped down to ambient. Don't peak until a heat gun verifies the equalized temp..

IIRC -- I'll try and find it but Devcon?? makes an alloy friendly epoxy that will hold up the the temps.

If the base metal is cast aluminum go with a 4043 Aluminum wire. It has a lower Magnesium % (stay at or under 3%), softer and works the best in my experience. Even though 5356 is the most popular it is a bad choice for casting repairs.

GL brother.

J
Thanks J. This sounds like a project for the welding department at the community college.
 
Mike, does your injection pump have a brace on the rear? It should. I wouldn't expect there to be an issue like this if there was a brace.

I've got a p-pump timing housing I'll sell you. That'd be a more permanent fix than jb-weld, but about the same as stop-drilling and welding.

Either way I'd want to know the cause of the crack before repairing.
 
Mike, does your injection pump have a brace on the rear? It should. I wouldn't expect there to be an issue like this if there was a brace.

I've got a p-pump timing housing I'll sell you. That'd be a more permanent fix than jb-weld, but about the same as stop-drilling and welding.

Either way I'd want to know the cause of the crack before repairing.
Thanks Johnny. I don't remember a brace but I'll double check by this evening. I'm trying to avoid removing the housing since that would require getting the gears out and tilting the engine up. I'm making contact with the welding dept to see if they want this project. I'll keep you posted and what happens. And yes you're right, i want to know the cause.
 
There should absolutely be a stabilizing brace on the back of the injection pump to the head. The injection pump is HEAVY and can absolutely crack the timing housing if the brace is missing or not tightened properly. The only situation I'm aware of that will cause a crack in the timing housing near the injection pump mounting location is if it's not braced.

Keep us posted brother!
 
Nope, sorry bud. I may have the lower piece (for a p-pump, off a 6bt, should be the same) sitting around though.
 
There is also a brace/support bracket for the vacuum pump. I don't know if yours is missing like mine is. Part #3919619 I believe.
 
Nope, sorry bud. I may have the lower piece (for a p-pump, off a 6bt, should be the same) sitting around though.
Thanks for your input Johnny, I at least know where to start. I'm gonna contact a reputable diesel shop in the area. I'll PM you for that housing once I get the ball rolling. I'm going to be out of town for about a week.
There is also a brace/support bracket for the vacuum pump. I don't know if yours is missing like mine is. Part #3919619 I believe.
Cim, I definitely don't have that piece. it looks like I can easily source or or make one. Thanks bud.
 
Dropped off Big Red at the only diesel mechanic willing to touch it. Unfortunately it's 30 miles away past 1000 acres of corn. Apparently there are two different housings for the inline pump. Getting new tappet gasket, new front seal and a new gear housing case, He's also going to advance my timing a few more degrees and make sure the valves are readjusted. hes also going to make sure the steering pump is bolted to the block and not just the back of the housing. There goes next month's paycheck :crybaby:. After all this, probably in the next two months, i'm going to change the rear axle bearings. it's developed a whine on acceleration. Freaking never ends.

the good news is USA is in the semi finals right now in the America cup, we just need to beat Argentina. GOOOO MURIKAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!

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"Almost stock set up"

:lol:
 
.........and so it starts. Now I have to think about "while I'm in there what else can I improve". My only limiting factor is money.

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New gear housing route.

I'd put a new oil pump, gaskets and front main should be obvious. Rebuild the PS pump if it leaks.
 
New gear housing route.

I'd put a new oil pump, gaskets and front main should be obvious. Rebuild the PS pump if it leaks.
New seals and gaskets are a no brainer, the oil pump is price dependent at the moment. I hadn't quite budgeted for this. I'm out of town for another week, so this may be a slow moving progress.
 
While I'm waiting on parts to come in, here's the latest pic I have.

IMG_20160627_183013.jpg


The guy working on it will be checking if the oil pump needs to be replaced and if I can fit a larger intercooler on there. I have one sitting in the garage that I haven't yet tried.

In other news, my helmet spike came in, it's going on my WWII German helmet for my bike.

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Can't wait to have that screwed on when I get home :bounce::bounce2:.
 

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