Build Big Red Toy

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Just got back from the Cummins dealership where I ordered an oil pan gasket. I spoke with the parts guy and he says Cummins does not recommend using any kind of sealant with their gaskets. I guess they are worried some sealant pieces might eventually break off and possibly clog the turbo line. Anyway I thought it was worth mentioning since a few of us are running these types of diesels now.
 
I guess it's time for an update.

I finally went the hi steer route. Used all chromoly steering arms and rock assault drag links with 80 TREs. The oil pan gasket is replaced, but I still have an oil leak from the steering pump and possibly the block. So i'll have to go back in there again and maybe also change the tappet cover gasket. I also need an alignment.

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You can still see the oil drip, Fxxxing hating it right now :bang:
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Looks good Mike. Beefier steering is a huge plus
 
Torque the crap out of those knuckle studs and keep checking them.

Did you upgrade to ARP knuckle studs?
 
Does it steer any better ?
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Torque the crap out of those knuckle studs and keep checking them.

Did you upgrade to ARP knuckle studs?
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I reused the same studs. But will keep an eye on them for sure.


cruisermatt said:
Does it steer any better ?
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I lost some turning radius, but it feels sturdier. I still have to get an alignment and add the stabilizer bar, but so far so good.
 
Mike, jack up the front axle, take your wheels off and do the tape measure alignment. Takes 20 min tops and will save you $70. I set mine 1/8" toe -in meaning the front is an 8th closer than the rear and have had no issues at all.
Helps to get a flat piece of steel such as a piece of angle about a foot long and c-clamp it to the bottom of the rotor for taking measurements.
 
How far away from the rotor are you when measuring the C clamped angle? I did mine 1/8" toe in but with tires on (35s) and didn't experience any adverse driving characteristics. So an 1/8" measured at the tires is different than measured at the rotors. Uh oh, :worms: or is it too little a difference to matter?
 
TallCanDan said:
How far away from the rotor are you when measuring the C clamped angle? I did mine 1/8" toe in but with tires on (35s) and didn't experience any adverse driving characteristics. So an 1/8" measured at the tires is different than measured at the rotors. Uh oh, :worms: or is it too little a difference to matter?
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I have always done it by taking the tires off because it seems easier to adjust everything and also have something for the end of the tape measure to hang on. Honestly I don't think it really matters more of a preference thing i suppose!
 
I measure the tires while in the air. 1/2 toe in works for my 35"s
 
For those of you who don't know, the Republic of Texas Rally is going on this weekend. I've managed to miss the last few years because of travel or work. This year I specifically planned around it so I can go. I took out my bike the last couple of days to clean it up and see if it needs anything. As of last night it was perfect and could do 95 mph on the highway easily.

About an hour ago I decide to wash it before we head down.

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Not the best picture, but you get the idea. Then I saw this.

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The thread is coming apart and in one place looks like it had been chewed up. I've been riding since 1997 and never had this happen before. I didn't even feel it on the road, glad it didn't blow while doing 95. Now I'm gonna have to show up to the bike rally in a car :bang: ( freaking first world problems).
 
Taking Porche or Land Cruiser?:)First world problems indeed. I've never messing with a bike. Is changing a rear tire better or worse than your beadlocks? Anyway ave fun. The people watching alone is worth going.
 
Mr Cimarron said:
Taking Porche or Land Cruiser?:)First world problems indeed. I've never messing with a bike. Is changing a rear tire better or worse than your beadlocks? Anyway ave fun. The people watching alone is worth going.
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Ended up changing both tires on the bike. If you have the tire equipment to take the tire off the wheel and balance it, I would say doing the motorcycle is easier just because it will require less strength. The bead locks kicked my ass every time i needed to split the rim from the tires.
 
I bet I can name that tire.
I've seen it on some FullBore and ChinShin sport bike tires, nasty stuff. Glad you got fresh ones on, good choice. Ride safe!
 
Not the best picture, but you get the idea. Then I saw this.

View attachment 1273603

The thread is coming apart and in one place looks like it had been chewed up. I've been riding since 1997 and never had this happen before. I didn't even feel it on the road, glad it didn't blow while doing 95. Now I'm gonna have to show up to the bike rally in a car :bang: ( freaking first world problems).[/QUOTE]

DANG ! Thats scary,
 
[/QUOTE] DANG ! Thats scary, [/QUOTE]

Yup, I almost almost became a darksider (installing a car tire on the rear of the bike) but was finally convinced not to since I usually ride with a passenger and I mostly ride on hill country roads.

In other news, my land cruiser is doing well. Needs a good vacuuming and paint job.
 
Since I'm talking tires, I figured I'd share this.

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Pretty much since Round Up in May I've been driving around with mud stuck in the wheels. However I don't feel an imbalance or any vibration because the wheels self balance from the beads inside them.

That's one added benefit in case you're on the fence of which way to balance your tires.
 
I got off work this morning and took Big Red to get inspected. It passed and then I got my second wind. I decided to fix the steering wheel and mess with the alignment a bit. After that it drives straighter now :bounce2:. I then decided to rewire my speaker because it's been coming loose. After that I wanted to see where it's still seeping oil from, that's when my heart stopped.

It may be because I'm tired now, but is this a hairline crack in the bottom of the front cover? If it is what's the best way to stop it from growing and fix it?

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I need a new gasket for where the pump attaches to the block, but might use silicone instead. Appreciate any constructive input.
 
so I spent the first half of father's day working on big red. I pulled the steering pump back out and confirmed that I do have a hairline crack on the front right next to where the pump bolts. I finally have the truck set up the way I want it then this happens:(. I'm trying to figure out the best way to fix this. I know I'm supposed to drill two holes and put a bolt in them or tig weld it. But there isn't enough room to do that. I was pissed for a good while but now i'm debating/fantasizing about the cheaper but much more powerful 6bt. I would basically need new engine mounts and different lengths of drive shafts. Then that engine can start breaking other parts on the truck.

I'm open to suggestion on the crack.

oh and happy fathers day
 
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