Big Fuel Tank (2 Viewers)

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The ford E-250 van's gas tank looks like a great fit, and not too tall either. Cheap too, a new is just over $100.
 
Doing some searching on Rock Auto turned up the following tank with close to the stock dimensions of the sub-tank:

Dorman 576103
40-1/2" x 22-1/4" x 8"

 
Siege,
Good find. I tended to stick with trucks and other vehicles that I knew had larger tanks when I did my quick and dirty tank survey. This one fits a Ford Tempo, among others, for instance.

It has a notch in the right side front, which should help keep it away from the exhaust intrusion. With that length/width combination, it may be close at a couple of points to intrusions into the space back there. I think it will be OK, but it's a good example of one where you may want to cut a cardboard template to verify fit before ordering.
 
Cool. Now, how to best support the fuel tank safely?

One thing I like about the aftermarket solutions is their mounting to the frame rails. Although the straps work well they are a little more difficult to install in a non stock location.
 

That looks like a decent candidate but I'm worried about the rear fill port. If you folks can visualize how the fill hose will get routed, I think you'll see that this will pose a problem. The fill hose typically has to have a large bending radius so this radius will smack the body as it comes from your filler neck solution to this point. Also, keep in mind that you must have a decent downward slope from the fill neck to the tank inlet; otherwise, the refueling process will be a VERY aggravating one. The fuel nozzle will keep stopping on you as the fuel backs up this hose.

Cool. Now, how to best support the fuel tank safely?

One thing I like about the aftermarket solutions is their mounting to the frame rails. Although the straps work well they are a little more difficult to install in a non stock location.

I'm going to try to reuse the oem mounting solution (straps to the body) to see how easy that turns out. But, coming up with a frame mounting solution should be rather easy as there are several captive nuts inside the frame left over from the spare tire mounting thing. I think the MAF 24g tank may use the frame mounting solution if I'm not mistaken.
 
That looks like a decent candidate but I'm worried about the rear fill port. If you folks can visualize how the fill hose will get routed, I think you'll see that this will pose a problem. The fill hose typically has to have a large bending radius so this radius will smack the body as it comes from your filler neck solution to this point. Also, keep in mind that you must have a decent downward slope from the fill neck to the tank inlet; otherwise, the refueling process will be a VERY aggravating one. The fuel nozzle will keep stopping on you as the fuel backs up this hose.


If you looks at the right side of the tank in that picture you will see the fill and vent port. No issues with the fill, the tank will need to be turned 180* but that's not big deal with it being a flat tank, in fact I think turning it will work well it will place the fuel pick up at the front of the tank as a benefit.
 
That looks like a decent candidate but I'm worried about the rear fill port. If you folks can visualize how the fill hose will get routed, I think you'll see that this will pose a problem. The fill hose typically has to have a large bending radius so this radius will smack the body as it comes from your filler neck solution to this point. Also, keep in mind that you must have a decent downward slope from the fill neck to the tank inlet; otherwise, the refueling process will be a VERY aggravating one. The fuel nozzle will keep stopping on you as the fuel backs up this hose.



I'm going to try to reuse the oem mounting solution (straps to the body) to see how easy that turns out. But, coming up with a frame mounting solution should be rather easy as there are several captive nuts inside the frame left over from the spare tire mounting thing. I think the MAF 24g tank may use the frame mounting solution if I'm not mistaken.

I dont think the flange on the tank is meant to bear the weight of the tank, unless you mean for the straps, in which case they wont wrap around the side of the tank as well to hold it in place?

A guy may have to construct a skid plate to hold it in place properly. I guess Ive got enough checker plate aluminum around to build one though. :meh:
 
If you looks at the right side of the tank in that picture you will see the fill and vent port. No issues with the fill, the tank will need to be turned 180* but that's not big deal with it being a flat tank, in fact I think turning it will work well it will place the fuel pick up at the front of the tank as a benefit.

Ahh, found it. Post #132 shows a picture of the oem subtank which has the filler on the correct side (obviously) and toward the center. This tank has it toward the rear which should help with the fill hose positioning. Now, if one can find the same range of sender (ohms) as what the dash gauge would like to see, then you have a very nice way to know how much fuel is in this tank using the factory dash gauge.

BTW, does anyone know off the top of their had what range sender do we have? I got a spare gauge sitting in the shed, I can go out and measure it.
 
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I dont think the flange on the tank is meant to bear the weight of the tank, unless you mean for the straps, in which case they wont wrap around the side of the tank as well to hold it in place?

A guy may have to construct a skid plate to hold it in place properly. I guess Ive got enough checker plate aluminum around to build one though. :meh:

Looking at that tank, I'd think the strap solution would work out nicely unless I'm missing something. :confused:
 
Looking at that tank, I'd think the strap solution would work out nicely unless I'm missing something. :confused:

I might be the one missing something ;)

If your gonna use straps then it will be pressed tight to what ever is above it, and I believe the straps attach to something directly above it. Im not sure if, other than the bodywork, that there is a suitable place to attach the straps.

Since Im not the one with a 4runner tank on hand or their straps, someone with those parts would have to make it work and then show us how they did it ;p
 
I found a tank here in calgary off of a 97 4runner on kijiji, I may go have a look at it this evening.

I also have two BJ60 fuel tanks in my garage, but I think they are too big, Ill have to check again.

I have a HJ60 tank sitting in my side yard and they are huge, cant see one of them fitting, I should measure it though and see just how big they are.
 
I might be the one missing something ;)

If your gonna use straps then it will be pressed tight to what ever is above it, and I believe the straps attach to something directly above it. Im not sure if, other than the bodywork, that there is a suitable place to attach the straps.

Since I'm not the one with a 4runner tank on hand or their straps, someone with those parts would have to make it work and then show us how they did it ;p

II can be more clear with my posts. If you follow George's mounting instruction linked above (Taskled.com), you'll see where the straps are attached to the body using rivnuts. You are correct in that the tank is sandwiched against the bottom of the cargo floor with these straps. IMO, regardless of what type of tank we end up with, as long as the top is rather flat, you can use the same strapping concept to mount the tank to the body. I think the straps provide a very cradle for just about any tanks. The only caveat would be if the rivnuts can hold up a tank with 25g of fuel vs the 14g they were designed for. Technically, the rivnuts are 3/8" 16 (in my case) and I haven't investigated their pullout specs. Realistically, we're only talking about an extra 88lb of extra weigh (25g vs 14g tank) so the safety margin is probably there.
 
II can be more clear with my posts. If you follow George's mounting instruction linked above (Taskled.com), you'll see where the straps are attached to the body using rivnuts. You are correct in that the tank is sandwiched against the bottom of the cargo floor with these straps. IMO, regardless of what type of tank we end up with, as long as the top is rather flat, you can use the same strapping concept to mount the tank to the body. I think the straps provide a very cradle for just about any tanks. The only caveat would be if the rivnuts can hold up a tank with 25g of fuel vs the 14g they were designed for. Technically, the rivnuts are 3/8" 16 (in my case) and I haven't investigated their pullout specs. Realistically, we're only talking about an extra 88lb of extra weigh (25g vs 14g tank) so the safety margin is probably there.

Well, hard to say. Two rivnuts per strap end... Probably.

But rattle 88 pounds down gravel roads and drop offs on the weekends for a while and that 'll be the test. Im less worried about incident with it full of diesel though.

Ill try and find the info posted by george?

:hhmm:

edit: found it: http://www.george4wd.taskled.com/auxtank.html
 
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i share your concern but gotta say that my tank has stayed put for the last eight years w/o any signs of fatigue. I used high quality riv nuts and a GIANT riv nut tool from J.O. King and so far so good. Lots of washboards, wheeling trips, drop offs etc so far and knock on wood, she's holding. Heck, the half mile road to my house is full of washboards.

Just to be clear, the total weight is 200lbs (assuming 8lb/gal of petrol x 25g) so the straps are supporting 100lbs each and each end is supporting 50lbs. I guess when you look at it that way, 50lbs per rivnut is not a big deal if you have quality nuts.
 

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