Bib Repair (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 22, 2015
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Location
Louisiana
Figured maybe this may help somebody. Marked where it was to be cut out with a sharpie. Once I cut the bad spot out. Try not to cut in the bend, that way you can keep the front edge of the bib good and straight.
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When the bottom layer was cut out found that some of the inside panel needed to be replaced as well, so marked and cut it out too. I made sure the first piece that was cut out was a little bigger. That way when it was welded back in, the welds would not be right on top of each other.
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I tried to clean as much rust off as I could, even down in between the panels. Mask off around where your going to spray the weld through primer. I really hosed her down good and let run down in between the panels.
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Used the pieces I cut out as a pattern and traced around it with a sharpie. Remember to leave some of the outline of the sharpie so the pieces wont be to small and leave to big a gap. I try to cut it out a little big.
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Then its fitted, this one has another panel behind it so its not that big a deal. You need about a 1/16" so there is plenty of penetration.
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It got some holes drilled through it, so I could weld it to the back panel.
 
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Then took a 120 grit flap disk to her, cleaned the coating off. Wiped it down with grease and wax remover. Then hit it with weld thru primer clamped it in place and tacked her up.
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That U-Pol copper primer is the real deal.

Spit on your knuckle and get back to work!
 
I love it when the cutoff wheel melts rubber etc. inside the knuckle.
 
That U-Pol copper primer is the real deal.

Spit on your knuckle and get back to work!

You know it was you @rkymtnflyfisher that turned me on to that weld thru primer, along with a lot of other tips. Thanks, and yes it is the s***!

One of the reasons I love this place so much is because of all y'all compassionate souls. Lol
 
Had 3 broken screws that had to come out. Thought I was going to get lucky with one, and be able to screw it out from the back side. Should have known better, ended up drilling them all out. Btw they are 5mm.
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Wanted to get that out of the way before I started smearing mud. You can get self centering drill bits and use it if its broke off below the surface. Most times I just use a really sharp pointed center punch and try to get as close to center as possible.
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Then of course, run a tap through it to clean up the threads.
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Then it was time to slap on some mud. I went over it good with a DA with 80 grit, then cleaned it good with grease and wax remover.
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I usually put to much on, I have a hard time not using to much hardener when mixing up a small amount. So I mix up to much and I hate wasting it and it ends up getting sanded off. If you hadn't noticed, I usually take to much off too.
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Still had a few low spots, mixed up a little. Like always put a little to much hardener in, but I've gotten fast.
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Still needs just a tad. Getting there though.
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I love your threads (and rust repair threads in general)!!
 
I usually put to much on, I have a hard time not using to much hardener when mixing up a small amount. So I mix up to much and I hate wasting it and it ends up getting sanded off. If you hadn't noticed, I usually take to much off too.View attachment 1483146 Still had a few low spots, mixed up a little. Like always put a little to much hardener in, but I've gotten fast.View attachment 1483156 Still needs just a tad. Getting there though. View attachment 1483165

I find LOTS of beer helps me to get through fixing these rust buckets as well : )
 
To the OP - If you're going to get it wet or drive it in the rain, be sure you spray some Lithium grease or Fluid Film into that metal sandwich area after it's painted and installed. I don't think you want to do this again in 5-10 years.
 

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