Better 70-Series brakes? (2 Viewers)

[Jonathan Hanson]

Again you describing the perfect environment for an exhaust brake. You would have ZERO fade with stock brakes and this setup. You would also save money on brakes as you wouldn't be on them, regardless if they are upgraded or not.

FJBen, I agree, and I do plan to look into the possibility. However, I'd prefer the exhaust brake to augment a high-performance standard brake system rather than be a substitute for it.

 

[BK70]

I put new DBA rotors and pads all round on my 75 series ute a few years back. The brakes were so good they didnt need upgrading.

Did you go with the DBA4151S discs and the Wagner DB288WB pads? I'm about to order some. That seems to be what they website suggests is the best - unless you do drilled which seems to be a bad move based on forum discussion.

 

[bjowett]

Here is one of 5000 projects... lack of interest slows them down (no pun intended), along with life in general. Nice to see someone looking for a real meat and potatoes upgrade, no fluff here! This is a rotor I designed to fit under a 15" wheel on my BJ73, 306mm x 32mm wide with directional vanes. Still figuring calipers. A pinch more info in my build.

 

[JMasi]

@bjowett Put me on the list of interested if you are making one...

 

[roscoFJ73]

Did you go with the DBA4151S discs and the Wagner DB288WB pads? I'm about to order some. That seems to be what they website suggests is the best - unless you do drilled which seems to be a bad move based on forum discussion.

Long time ago, I know they were not drilled but Im not sure of the exact parts

 

[hydrolaw]

I used calipers from a V6 T-100. Improved breaking and cheap-NAPA rebuilt. You do have to trim the stone shield

Could you explain more? I have a kzj78 and the brakes are terrible.

 

[coldtaco]

The V6 calipers have the same size pistons (correct name?) where as my HJ pistons one was smaller than the other. So having two of the bigger gave me some improvements. Don’t know if the light duty cruisers have the same calipers as the HJ models.

 

[meloh]

FJBen, I agree, and I do plan to look into the possibility. However, I'd prefer the exhaust brake to augment a high-performance standard brake system rather than be a substitute for it

What did you end up going with? I’m running into the same issue with brake fade when descending mountains and am looking to replace my brake system. I have an HZJ77.

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

What did you end up going with? I’m running into the same issue with brake fade when descending mountains and am looking to replace my brake system. I have an HZJ77.

As of now all I've done is flushed the fluid and replaced it with DOT 5.1, which has a significantly higher boiling point than DOT 3 or 4. Still looking for larger or wider discs that will fit 16-inch wheels.

 

[cruisermatt]

Either 00-06 Tundra brakes or 2010-2014 4runner brakes with IFS hubs work on a pre-98 70 series just like they do on a 60 series.
We are putting a set of Tundra front brakes on a Troopy next month.

 

[meloh]

As of now all I've done is flushed the fluid and replaced it with DOT 5.1, which has a significantly higher boiling point than DOT 3 or 4. Still looking for larger or wider discs that will fit 16-inch wheels.

I’ll look for DOT 5.1 and replace my fluid with that too, thanks for the reply! Have you tried the downhill descent with the replacement? I am also thinking of replacing my rotor since I’ve read this may also be the issue. I am running 17’s , will an OEM rotor be too small?

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

I’ll look for DOT 5.1 and replace my fluid with that too, thanks for the reply! Have you tried the downhill descent with the replacement? I am also thinking of replacing my rotor since I’ve read this may also be the issue. I am running 17’s , will an OEM rotor be too small?

Not yet, but the difference should be substantial. If your brakes exhibit softer and softer pedal on descents, as ours did, that's a symptom of boiling fluid. But with 17-inch wheels you might have the even better option of switching to larger-diameter discs. Perhaps CruiserMatt can help there.

 

[cruisermatt]

I’ll look for DOT 5.1 and replace my fluid with that too, thanks for the reply! Have you tried the downhill descent with the replacement? I am also thinking of replacing my rotor since I’ve read this may also be the issue. I am running 17’s , will an OEM rotor be too small?

What size tires are you running and how much additional added weight (bumpers, roof rack, fridge etc) do you have over stock?
Are you sure that ALL the components in your existing stock brake system is completely baselined and working properly, and not of excessive age? These are questions you should know the answer to before considering a brake upgrade

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

Regarding brake fluid, below is a chart listing the minimum boiling points for DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids. (DOT 5, confusingly, is silicone based and not compatible with glycol-based 3, 4, and 5.1.) It's easy to see how much fade resistance you gain simply by upgrading your brake fluid.

 

[jblueridge]

Thanks for the chart.
I thought DOT 5.1 was a super-silicone.
I guess they would have named it DOT 6 if the DOT people could count that high.

 

[TreadingLight]

Either 00-06 Tundra brakes or 2010-2014 4runner brakes with IFS hubs work on a pre-98 70 series just like they do on a 60 series.
We are putting a set of Tundra front brakes on a Troopy next month

I have an OEM 70 16" rims, some kind of OEM style rotors, an 80 master, 70 booster in suspect condition, mid 90s 4runner calipers and duralast gold pads.

I've been experiencing fade on steep mountain descents as well (old priest grade near yosemite being one).

Just before leaving for my current Mexico trip I put a simple bypass around my lspv and that helped considerably.

But I am heavy at 6500lbs and I just smoked a caliper yesterday (probably wore out the front brakes when the lspv wasn't functioning). Fortunately I was on a flat road when it gave out, but I was on my way to drive the Rumarosa grade near Mexicali where it might have been a lot more exciting.

Anyhow, all that to say I am waiting on a new 4runner caliper so I can get back on the road, but I am thinking about ways to improve resistance to fade in the mountains.

Like @Jonathan Hanson I would like to optimize my front brakes with commonly available parts before I think about exhaust brakes.A

Does this sound like a good path forward?

• 00-06 Tundra or 2010-2014 4runner rotors
• 00-06 Tundra or 2010-2014 4runner calipers
• Autozone gold 00-06 Tundra or 2010-2014 4runner pads
• 80 booster (vs rebuilding my 70)
• Manual proportioning valve (vs OEM lspv)

Any mods needed to fit the tundra/4runner brakes?

 

[jblueridge]

For me, the 80 series mc and booster plus 4runner rotors, calipers, pads was a good upgrade.
Bigger booster eats lots more vacuum so I added another vac reservoir.
The lspv is a pain until it is adjusted and bled correctly.

 

[cruisermatt]

I have an OEM 70 16" rims, some kind of OEM style rotors, an 80 master, 70 booster in suspect condition, mid 90s 4runner calipers and duralast gold pads.

I've been experiencing fade on steep mountain descents as well (old priest grade near yosemite being one).

Just before leaving for my current Mexico trip I put a simple bypass around my lspv and that helped considerably.

But I am heavy at 6500lbs and I just smoked a caliper yesterday (probably wore out the front brakes when the lspv wasn't functioning). Fortunately I was on a flat road when it gave out, but I was on my way to drive the Rumarosa grade near Mexicali where it might have been a lot more exciting.

Anyhow, all that to say I am waiting on a new 4runner caliper so I can get back on the road, but I am thinking about ways to improve resistance to fade in the mountains.

Like @Jonathan Hanson I would like to optimize my front brakes with commonly available parts before I think about exhaust brakes.A

Does this sound like a good path forward?

• 00-06 Tundra or 2010-2014 4runner rotors
• 00-06 Tundra or 2010-2014 4runner calipers
• Autozone gold 00-06 Tundra or 2010-2014 4runner pads
• 80 booster (vs rebuilding my 70)
• Manual proportioning valve (vs OEM lspv)

Any mods needed to fit the tundra/4runner brakes?

We use OEM parts as much as possible for our brake parts.
You will need 17" wheels for the +2010 4runner brakes as they are massive. The Tundra brakes are a considerable increase in rotor cross sectional area then 60/70 rotors and they have a much higher GCVW so the Tundra brakes should be plenty for you.

New OEM 80 booster is a no brainer. OEM, new, bigger, and bolt-in (with my clevis I make). Depending on your vacuum pump you may need a bigger Vac chamber as others have mentioned. It hasn't been an issue for me with 1HZ but it has with 13BT's in the past. The 1HZ vacuum pump seems to be a lot better

Assuming you still have stock rear drum brakes I would make sure your wheel cylinders and shoes are fresh as well.

For the front brakes you will need caliper brackets, IFS wheel hubs, and to switch the knuckles L/R. Here is a good thread in the 60 section documenting this
FROR makes the brackets, I also make them as well with some minor enhancements (thicker material) I just don't list them on my site currently.
We have them in stock along with everything else, including 80 boosters, Tundra rotors/calipers, IFS hubs, knuckle kits, everything you could poosibly need for your rear brakes, etc

Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod

Hello All, Here are some specifics for performing the Front Range Off Road (FROR) Tundra brake mod on the front axle of a 60 Series Land Cruiser. This combination of master/caliper seems perfectly balanced with pedal travel, feel, and response. Braking performance is a huge improvement over...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[TreadingLight]

OK I was afraid of that. I really want to keep my 16" OEM wheels. I rebuilt the rears and they are solid.

I'm going to do the booster next and add a proportioning valve. Still undecided on manual vs lspv.

I won't change the wheels and go to bigger rotors unless I really have to for safety.

 

[cruisermatt]

OK I was afraid of that. I really want to keep my 16" OEM wheels. I rebuilt the rears and they are solid.

I'm going to do the booster next and add a proportioning valve. Still undecided on manual vs lspv.

I won't change the wheels and go to bigger rotors unless I really have to for safety.

Your 16” wheels should clear the Tundra brakes. I believe @Godwin runs that setup on his 60.

I would skip a proportion valve on a heavy Troopy unless you have already experienced your rear brakes locking up. I would not expect that with such a long wheelbase and heavy GVW

happy to supply an 80 booster, and I sell a custom clevis to install it into your 70.