Best way to install caster shims? (3 Viewers)

[pb4ugo]

It's probably ok. I'm not sure you'll find other shims with smaller hole. The U bolts will help hold the spring pack together, but breaking center pins is not unheard of. IMO, the wedge is trying to be spit out. The other issue with smaller spring pins is the head of the pin is slightly smaller than they would be with a stk spring, so there will be more slop in relation to the axles spring perch hole. As I mentioned previously, I go about this a different way.

 

[Last Flight Out]

It's probably ok. I'm not sure you'll find other shims with smaller hole. The U bolts will help hold the spring pack together, but breaking center pins is not unheard of. IMO, the wedge is trying to be spit out. The other issue with smaller spring pins is the head of the pin is slightly smaller than they would be with a stk spring, so there will be more slop in relation to the axles spring perch hole. As I mentioned previously, I go about this a different way.

Stock spring head pin is exactly 13mm which is same as most of the 5/16” pins. Just measured and would be no slop at that point in the perch.

 

[pb4ugo]

Stock spring head pin is exactly 13mm which is same as most of the 5/16” pins. Just measured and would be no slop at that point in the perch.

Good to know. I guess I figured the stk springs' pins were 3/8 cause the shims were drilled that way. I've been running aftermarket springs that have 3/8" holes forever and added 3/8" shcs.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Good to know. I guess I figured the stk springs' pins were 3/8 cause the shims were drilled that way. I've been running aftermarket springs that have 3/8" holes forever and added 3/8" shcs.

That’s interesting. Forgot to say I measured off a 1981 us spec 40.

 

[knuckle47]

This entire post is intriguing and addresses a bunch of questions for me. But, my complaint is actually the “lightness” of the Saginaw PS conversion as @Mark Jennings had mentioned.

Is there a “fix” to make the steering a bit stiffer…mine is steerable with 1 finger in figure 8 turns if need be. I don’t care for it. In fact, last year I did purchase a stock toyota manual steering box and steering shaft with the rag joint that was cut off on mine….but going backwards seems like more of a job. Along those lines…any suggestions?

 

[Mark Jennings]

This entire post is intriguing and addresses a bunch of questions for me. But, my complaint is actually the “lightness” of the Saginaw PS conversion as @Mark Jennings had mentioned.

Is there a “fix” to make the steering a bit stiffer…mine is steerable with 1 finger in figure 8 turns if need be. I don’t care for it. In fact, last year I did purchase a stock toyota manual steering box and steering shaft with the rag joint that was cut off on mine….but going backwards seems like more of a job. Along those lines…any suggestions?

There are several variations of Saginaw steering boxes, and if you do some internet searching there are a couple of companies that sell the ‘torque rod’ internal to the box. The torque rod is the component in the steering box that will adjust the steering input before hydraulic fluid is ported to the piston…..basically allows you to adjust pressure is applied to the steering wheel before you get travel at the wheels.
I looked into it quite a while ago….ill see if I can find the name of the company I was talking to….but decided against it because my wife is the primary driver (I’m just the ride along mechanic). She likes the one finger steering.

 

[knuckle47]

Jeez, I didn’t know anything like that was an option. The concept is decent ..wonder if it does what it claims…I would certainly use this on mine. That one finger steering is fine a low speeds but doesn’t feel right at 50….thank you !

 

[Mark Jennings]

So the 2 companies to Google up are PCS and Lee, they fabricate custom Saginaw boxes for racing and Off Road Application….and I misnamed the component, it’s a Torsion Rod….not Torque Rod.

If you go through their catalogs and technical sections, looks like you can get a 15 - 20#, 20 - 30#, 30 - 40# and 40 - 50#…..most all ‘off the shelf’ box’s come with 15 - 20#, or steer with your pinky.

I’m not sure if they will sell only the torsion rod or if they will rebuild your box…..it might be worth it to call and see what their recommendation is.

 

[knuckle47]

I will call them Monday…thank you for this

 

[405]

Just wanted to update the thread from my OP...

I installed the CruiserTeq 4* shims this past weekend and it made a significant difference. I can now drive confidently at 60-65mph and the truck tracks perfectly straight. No more wandering and fighting the steering to keep it on the road . It also handles A LOT better when cornering. Thanks all for your help with my installation questions. I’m glad to say the shims solved my entire problem!

A couple notes...
-With the OME leafs I had to use 5/16" x 3" bolts. I used hardened steel with an allen style head. All the centering pins for leaf springs I was finding locally were 3/8" size which were too big. The 5/16" bolts worked perfectly. I used nylon lock nuts on the bottom.
-To support the front axle it was very helpful to have 2 jacks, it made life much easier.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Also marking this case closed! Thanks to @405 @Mark Jennings @pb4ugo for all the help as well. Rear shims solved the ds vibration and from shims got the caster into the positive

 

[70 FJ40]

I've got some new dobinsons springs I'm wanting to install. I know I'll need to use 4* caster shims with them but the head of the spring pin is not long enough to reach through the shim and still have enough length to go up into the spring perch. Do I just need to get a different spring pin with a longer head on it?

 

[brian]

Yes

 

[70 FJ40]

OK. Going through what I have here I realized I have 6° and 2° shims. I think I want 4°. My 6° are alluminum with a larger diameter hole. I'm thinking I'll just order up a set of steel 4° shims from cruiserteq. They should have the right size hole in them for my spring bolts.

 

[brian]

Did you measure it to see exactly what degree you need, or just guessing?

 

[70 FJ40]

Just going off what others have done with this lift. I'd rather err on the positive side for better tracking.

 

[brian]

Power steering?

 

[70 FJ40]

No. Factory manual steering. Everything is fresh. Rebuilt axle. New tie rod ends, shocks, steering stabilizer. Rebuilt steering box.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

I've got some new dobinsons springs I'm wanting to install. I know I'll need to use 4* caster shims with them...

Which Dobinsons kit did you purchase, the 2 inch lift? If positive and given this is a low/moderate lift, does it really need the shim?
Ordered this kit for my BJ45 Pickup, but they did not mention anything about shims at Dobinsons...

 

[brian]

No. Factory manual steering. Everything is fresh. Rebuilt axle. New tie rod ends, shocks, steering stabilizer. Rebuilt steering box.

More caster isn't a good thing with Armstrong steering.