Best options for under sized Torque Wrench?

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I tried a 300 ft.lb. TQ wrench from HF, but the one that really got it torqued down was a regular (but higher quality) SK 150 ft.lb. TQ wrench and an extension I welded up

Going by this online calculator, I only needed to crank the 1/2" SK TQ wrench to 118ft.lbs.

http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/TorqueExtension.htm

The HF TQ wrench was a brand new replacement for one of my workers as his previous one wouldn't click.

My calibration cube only works up to 147 ft.lbs., so I was only able to check the smaller SK TQ wrench and trusted the extension combo more than the big HF wrench

With the crank holding tool braced against my foot, I got a solid click out of the HF Tq wrench set to the max

Then I switched over to the SK Tq wrench with the extension set for 304ft.lbs. and was able to get a good 1/4 turn before clicking

Now, I trust the SK's calibration over the HF Tq wrench any day, but being this was the first time using the extension, I figure I'd go a little tighter, so I bumped up the extension setting for 320 and it went about another 1/4 turn before clicking and I just called it good

 

[Howard705]

I like that one. There's a big tolerance on anything like this. Factory assembly is done with with hydro-pneumatic (Impacts) and other various electric and hand calibrated torque tools. To be sure they are being done right they are spot checked with precision calibrated electronic tools to make sure it stays in the range. Every bolt is torqued and all drawings give a range. Caterpillar engines. The manual isn't going to give all that.
Whatever happened to knowing your impact and feeling how tight it came off and going on about the same way? How about torque multiplier? Use those on high torque bolts when no torque wrench goes high enough.

 

[Rookie2]

Torque multipliers aren't exactly cheap either. Hard to justify for a one time use.

 

[gray rider]

We know what can happen if it's too loose, are there any negative consequences that could arrive from having is a little too tight?

A wealth of good info here. Thanks to all who chimed in. Never expected all of the responses. Tomorrow I will dig in well prepared.

Still would like to hear opinions on Rookie's question. What happens if we torque the main to say....350 ft-lbs?

 

[badmuthatrucka]

If you torque it too far over spec, you run the risk of stretching the bolt and fatiguing the metal to the point of failure. The torque specifications are set according to what will make the posts "stick together" the right amount and not exceed the strength of the bolt. Going a little over, say 1-5 ftlbs, would not be too bad. However going more than 10% (30 lbs) over at torque ranges in this range is not a good idea.

Just my $0.02...

 

[gray rider]

If you torque it too far over spec, you run the risk of stretching the bolt and fatiguing the metal to the point of failure. The torque specifications are set according to what will make the posts "stick together" the right amount and not exceed the strength of the bolt. Going a little over, say 1-5 ftlbs, would not be too bad. However going more than 10% (30 lbs) over at torque ranges in this range is not a good idea.

Just my $0.02...

Good Call....Thanks!!

 

[Rookie2]

Mikray, don't know what your plan is, but the BTDT advice is to use the socket in the torque converter method. I tried both the bump and the chain method and failed. Socket in the torque converter was golden.

 

[1973Guppie]

http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/TorqueExtension.htm

this is some awesome tech info, thank you!

Noah

 

[gray rider]

Mikray, don't know what your plan is, but the BTDT advice is to use the socket in the torque converter method. I tried both the bump and the chain method and failed. Socket in the torque converter was golden.

The socket/torque converter trick worked very well!!

 

[gray rider]

My wrap up on Oil Pump Seal replacement:
Finished!

Also replaced belts, dizzy o-ring, dizzy rotor, dizzy dust cover ring thing, main crank seal

Thoughts at large:
Remove the Top radiator hose and the top bypass(?) hose for ease of removing the fan and fan shroud.
Fiddled around with that way too long.

It did not take much to break the main shaft bolt loose. Granted I was using a 46" cheater pipe (cause that is the longest length that would fit under the raised hood) on the 3/4" breaker bar, but I think the bolt was way under spec torque.

I used the 3/4" 300# Torque wrench from Harbor Freight after all. It gave a nice satisfying click when set to 300 and using the cheater pipe. I then bumped the bolt another 1/16 turn perhaps.

The seven oil pump cover screws came out nicely using the FAQ recommendations.

Don't forget to remove the cardboard radiator protector when finished........

That's one long day for a man, but one giant savings for his pocket!

 

[Rookie2]

That's a nice days work indeed, and i'm sure quite relieved to have that all behind you.

 

[gray rider]

That's a nice days work indeed, and i'm sure quite relieved to have that all behind you.

Yep, and maybe soon I will be able to justify cleaning the driveway!
Leak free???

 

[Rookie2]

Yeh, just be aware you will likely still see some small amounts of oil seep around the cover for the next week or so, until everything gets settled out. I'm glad someone mentioned that to me or I would have been cussing.

 

[gray rider]

Ok thanks. That's good to know...

 

[kbahus]

Well I found a solution today, CDI 600ft/lb dial torque wrench. Mil Surplus but look in excellent condition, both came with instructions as well. They take up the entire length of the tail gate. I think one is going to go to the classifieds.....

 

[gray rider]

Will it clear the hood when in use?

 

[kbahus]

That was a scary thought so I went out and checked and it does look like it will clear, but not by much.

 

[gray rider]

Cool....