And also, there is a version for 24v trucks. I don’t know the number but it’s out there.
Best headlight upgrage for FJ60 latest and greatest 2016
- Thread starter Mica Peak
- Start date
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the short answer is that the koito kit with halogen bulbs will work with your factory wiring. A 55/60 watt beam won’t put any more load on the wires than the sealed beams did.
If the kit comes with new wires and relays then you can just reduce the old wires to be the relay triggers and run new wires to the lights. Reduce your voltage drop and get more light.
georgebj60
SILVER Star
1. Using a test probe, basic ground clamp and pointed probe with 12V bulb inside type
2. New lights and wiring installed I could not find the power for the OEM high beam indicator
3. I did find that the dash light circuit was working fine, lit up the probe when parking lights were turned on
EDIT: This all gets confusing when you look at the wiring harness for the stock system. The whole ground switching thing always confuses me when I try to think through these circuits...because the wiring diagram makes it look like the dash light would always be on. Seems like the high beam indicator should have power to in from the bulb side and ground through the high beam wiring circuit. So when the High beams are switched on by the switch providing ground then the indicator bulb would also receive ground and light up. But the way the diagram looks now it seems like it should be lit as long as the headlights are turned on.
4. I unplugged the new lights and put regular headlights in the OEM sockets. The high beam indicator circuit lit the
probe up without a problem when high beams were turned on. Lights worked perfect.
5. I plugged the new harness back in, same result, the probe did not light up when high beams were turned on.
6. I then checked the circuit with a multi meter when the high beams were turned on. 12v and change, weird.
7. These lights work as follows, low beams come on with switch. When switched to high beams, low beams turn off and high beams turn on. Both are NOT on at the same time.
8. I checked the circuit again with the probe and nothing, the probe did not light
9. When I had the high beams on and touched the probe to the high beam indicator circuit I noticed that the low beams came on with the high beams and I heard the low beam relay click. The probe DID NOT light up. When I pulled the probe, the low beams went out.
You were likely introducing a new ground with the 12v test light connected to the battery ground side and this confused the relay.
- if you added the Toyota harness with the new lights and you are running Halogen bulbs and the high beam indicator isn't coming on....then something isn't connected to the hi beam side of circuit properly to allow the indicator to pickup ground when it should (whether this is a user issue or harness issue no way of telling). The indicator bulb should be ground switched also so that when the high beams turn on the ground connects both the high beam circuit and provides ground to the indicator light
This is what I think is going on, based on past experience with a 60 and LED lights. The OEM lights are ground switched. I think these new lights are POS switched and this is done in the harness. I think this messes up the signal to the indicator light and throws 12V to the indicator circuit but it is working on the low beam circuit. When the grounded probe touches the indicator circuit it switches on the low beams but does not light the 12V bulb. Kind of like what a couple of you guys experienced with the indicator bulb not lighting.
I think that by replacing the standard bulb with an LED it carries enough current to light the bulb but not to complete the circuit to switch the low beams back on, or perhaps your low beams are coming on and you just did not notice it.
Either way, I probed the high beam relay and found the wire that lights up the probe when the high beams are turned on without lighting up the low beams too. I'll be using that one to light the light in the Speed Hut gauge.
Thoughts and opinions welcome for sure
LED's are a whole different animal because they are diodes. Diodes by nature only allow current to pass through them in one direction....where an incandescent bulb doesn't care if the wires that connect it to the battery are reversed or not. LED's need power at the intended power connection and ground at the intended ground connection. If these connections are reversed as in the ground switched toyota system then the lights wont work properly..or might sort of work but oddly. So the LED's need a conversion harness that switches the Toyota ground switched circuit back to a power switched circuit. And then you really should add a tertiary small relay to this conversion circuit to power the indicator light.
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I think for your 24v system you just need to put in 24v bulbs. your current draw is half as much with the 24v system so the wire size is fine. Current (Amps) = Power (watts) / Voltage (volts).
georgebj60
SILVER Star
I should clarify, I have the (unique to Canada) 24V truck, with the centertap 12V headlights, where the headlights receive 12v power (0-12V from the LH battery, and 12-24V from the RH battery). This allows us to use bulbs available everywhere, and also keeps the batteries balanced - that is, until a light burns out. Gotta replace those quickly.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
That's all well and good Seth but read #4. When the OEM headlight bulbs were plugged into the OEM sockets the Hi beam indicator circuit, this is the circuit in question here, worked just fine. With the test light hooked to a ground, not a positive. The lights themselves were not the issue, the indicator bulb was.
"This is what I think is going on, based on past experience with a 60 and LED lights. The OEM lights are ground switched"
I am well aware that the lights are ground switched.
"This is what I think is going on, based on past experience with a 60 and LED lights. The OEM lights are ground switched"
I am well aware that the lights are ground switched.
I wasn't under the impression that your original OEM wiring, bulbs, or lights were experiencing any problems. Sounded like all your problems were somehow related to the new harness provided and with the new harness the high beam indicator was no longer working.
The lights if halogen (not LED) are not your problem its the add on harness. You can certainly install a set of Koito light housings, H4 bulbs, and plug your stock harness into the bulbs and hi/lo and dash indicator will all work without issue. The 55/60 watt bulbs that come with most of these kits are pretty close to the wattage on the old sealed beams and unless your original wiring is falling apart or heavily corroded will handle the bulbs without issue. New wiring with proper relays and larger wire will certainly reduce your voltage drop to the lights, yield more light at all rpm levels, and help reduce your amperage draw from the system.
Looks like the indicator bulb pulls power off the high beam wire.
If you were saying that your indicator wasn't working with the stock setup then I missed/ miss understood what you were saying.
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NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Jesus, everything is fine Seth. No idea how I figured it all out without you.
Allah be praised, glad you got it. I'll sleep easier tonight
Making the rounds on these old Koito headlight harness threads...
I too had the issue with the high beam indicator not coming on. Some folks swap in an LED bulb on the dash and it works - Great! - other folks do that and still get no magic blue indicator light. Others folks install the LED and the light comes on VERY dimly and that's it. Two 60s in a row that I've owned have no blue light, no matter what I do. I finally made a thing to fix that, you can find it HERE for $30. Just thought I'd broadcast this out to folks who may not have solved this problem yet.
It's not a load resistor
It draws less than half an amp of current
Generates no appreciable heat
Internally fused to protect your truck's wiring harness
30 second install
I too had the issue with the high beam indicator not coming on. Some folks swap in an LED bulb on the dash and it works - Great! - other folks do that and still get no magic blue indicator light. Others folks install the LED and the light comes on VERY dimly and that's it. Two 60s in a row that I've owned have no blue light, no matter what I do. I finally made a thing to fix that, you can find it HERE for $30. Just thought I'd broadcast this out to folks who may not have solved this problem yet.
It's not a load resistor
It draws less than half an amp of current
Generates no appreciable heat
Internally fused to protect your truck's wiring harness
30 second install
