@NookShneer Yup that is the one! Bummer that the images have broken (at least for me at work).....
Best headlight upgrage for FJ60 latest and greatest 2016
- Thread starter Mica Peak
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Zombie thread, but curious if you or others used the relay and wiring harness kit from the Bus Depot as included in the 90/100 VisionKit.
The harness and multi relay upgrade is the root of the performance boost. The old stock harness probably loses 1.5 to 2 volt from battery to light. So if you can minimize that drop then any bulb will be brighter.
Just have to make sure the harness they provide is long enough. It gets wired to the battery, lamps, then to existing plugs for the headlamps. That's an excellent deal though for E-code housings and bulbs and harness, if it works.
best buy $ and I think performance wise(I have IPF, Hella, Cibie)....are the E code H4 Kioto 7" head light assembly, 2 lamps, 2 H4 bulbs(55/60) i a very nice headlight harness/relays, big bag of zip ties and cost about $40 from Toyota, all made in Japan
I swapped my hella H4 bulbs over, think they are 85/100? and I already had a ARB harness installed.
used the same lamps without the harness and with stock bulbs on my 45LV and am very happy.
id say they are good or better than Cibie H4 E codes
the lamps have a flat and almost extended front. if you have headlight grilles they will still fit
I swapped my hella H4 bulbs over, think they are 85/100? and I already had a ARB harness installed.
used the same lamps without the harness and with stock bulbs on my 45LV and am very happy.
id say they are good or better than Cibie H4 E codes
the lamps have a flat and almost extended front. if you have headlight grilles they will still fit
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
81110-60P70
Available from your Toyota dealer or shop around for best price. Or get it through me, I have no problem sending parts to people.
Aside from that, how many are running the Koito kit and their bright indicator light stopped functioning? If you had this happen, swap the indicator bulb to LED and it will function as designed.
Yeah, I wonder how long the Bus Depot harness is. I also happen to have a Vanagon and the battery is under the passenger seat so it’s probably at least as far away from the lights as in an fj60. I’ll have to enquire.
Thanks for the replies to this new fj owner.
Thanks for the replies to this new fj owner.
Matt did, may still. Its a heck of a deal.
I got mine at the local dealer,
I know a Jeep parts dealer that was paying $60 a lamp(exact same) I think he was reselling for $80 or more......I showed him what I got in the toyota box and his jaw dropped.
I got mine at the local dealer,
I know a Jeep parts dealer that was paying $60 a lamp(exact same) I think he was reselling for $80 or more......I showed him what I got in the toyota box and his jaw dropped.
yeah.......I did a 60, 40 and 45 and I can't say I have noticed that....but won't swear to it either. I'll check
I didn't use the Toyota harness, the 40 and 60 had ARB harnesses
I didn't use the Toyota harness, the 40 and 60 had ARB harnesses
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
I found that it is actually illuminating the indicator however it’s extremely dim, so a swap to an LED fixed for me. 2 hours of fiddling and testing yielded that.
Anyone know if the Kioto's that Stern sells are the same? His are not cheap-ish.
I got the Toyota upgraded part with the harness, glass lenses, and bulbs that Beno recommended. Works great
Nothing he sells is cheapish. While his business model is based around his knowledge and paying a premium for his knowledge the world has made it easy to find plenty of his products elsewhere for much more reasonable prices.
@mattressking, what LED did you use for the high indicator? I have the City Racer set and no bright lamp. Wondering if it’s the same issue.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Purchased from superbrightleds.com
| 921-CWHP15-TAC: Cool White |
I just installed a set of these lights, from Toyota in a 60 series. I also had issues with the high beam indicator. I'll list what I did and what I found, and my thoughts about it. I AM NO ELECTRICAL ENGINEER!
1. Using a test probe, basic ground clamp and pointed probe with 12V bulb inside type
2. New lights and wiring installed I could not find the power for the OEM high beam indicator
3. I did find that the dash light circuit was working fine, lit up the probe when parking lights were turned on
4. I unplugged the new lights and put regular headlights in the OEM sockets. The high beam indicator circuit lit the
probe up without a problem when high beams were turned on. Lights worked perfect.
5. I plugged the new harness back in, same result, the probe did not light up when high beams were turned on.
6. I then checked the circuit with a multi meter when the high beams were turned on. 12v and change, weird.
7. These lights work as follows, low beams come on with switch. When switched to high beams, low beams turn off and high beams turn on. Both are NOT on at the same time.
8. I checked the circuit again with the probe and nothing, the probe did not light
9. When I had the high beams on and touched the probe to the high beam indicator circuit I noticed that the low beams came on with the high beams and I heard the low beam relay click. The probe DID NOT light up. When I pulled the probe, the low beams went out.
This is what I think is going on, based on past experience with a 60 and LED lights. The OEM lights are ground switched. I think these new lights are POS switched and this is done in the harness. I think this messes up the signal to the indicator light and throws 12V to the indicator circuit but it is working on the low beam circuit. When the grounded probe touches the indicator circuit it switches on the low beams but does not light the 12V bulb. Kind of like what a couple of you guys experienced with the indicator bulb not lighting.
I think that by replacing the standard bulb with an LED it carries enough current to light the bulb but not to complete the circuit to switch the low beams back on, or perhaps your low beams are coming on and you just did not notice it.
Either way, I probed the high beam relay and found the wire that lights up the probe when the high beams are turned on without lighting up the low beams too. I'll be using that one to light the light in the Speed Hut gauge.
Thoughts and opinions welcome for sure
1. Using a test probe, basic ground clamp and pointed probe with 12V bulb inside type
2. New lights and wiring installed I could not find the power for the OEM high beam indicator
3. I did find that the dash light circuit was working fine, lit up the probe when parking lights were turned on
4. I unplugged the new lights and put regular headlights in the OEM sockets. The high beam indicator circuit lit the
probe up without a problem when high beams were turned on. Lights worked perfect.
5. I plugged the new harness back in, same result, the probe did not light up when high beams were turned on.
6. I then checked the circuit with a multi meter when the high beams were turned on. 12v and change, weird.
7. These lights work as follows, low beams come on with switch. When switched to high beams, low beams turn off and high beams turn on. Both are NOT on at the same time.
8. I checked the circuit again with the probe and nothing, the probe did not light
9. When I had the high beams on and touched the probe to the high beam indicator circuit I noticed that the low beams came on with the high beams and I heard the low beam relay click. The probe DID NOT light up. When I pulled the probe, the low beams went out.
This is what I think is going on, based on past experience with a 60 and LED lights. The OEM lights are ground switched. I think these new lights are POS switched and this is done in the harness. I think this messes up the signal to the indicator light and throws 12V to the indicator circuit but it is working on the low beam circuit. When the grounded probe touches the indicator circuit it switches on the low beams but does not light the 12V bulb. Kind of like what a couple of you guys experienced with the indicator bulb not lighting.
I think that by replacing the standard bulb with an LED it carries enough current to light the bulb but not to complete the circuit to switch the low beams back on, or perhaps your low beams are coming on and you just did not notice it.
Either way, I probed the high beam relay and found the wire that lights up the probe when the high beams are turned on without lighting up the low beams too. I'll be using that one to light the light in the Speed Hut gauge.
Thoughts and opinions welcome for sure
georgebj60
SILVER Star
Why does the Toyota kit need a new harness? Are the bulbs higher wattage, such that they would burn out the factory wiring? If so, what is the factory bulb wattage for an FJ60?
The reason I ask, is I purchased the set for my '87 HJ60, but it's a 24V truck with running 12V headlights, and the harness doesn't plug and play into my truck. The owners manual for my truck calls for 60/50W bulbs. The kits comes with 60/55W bulbs. I'm unclear if I can just run the H4 bulbs from the kit using the factory wiring.
The reason I ask, is I purchased the set for my '87 HJ60, but it's a 24V truck with running 12V headlights, and the harness doesn't plug and play into my truck. The owners manual for my truck calls for 60/50W bulbs. The kits comes with 60/55W bulbs. I'm unclear if I can just run the H4 bulbs from the kit using the factory wiring.
The truck needs a more stable harness regardless. The factory wires are aging and easily subject to the highest heat due to draw.
There is no reason why not to take the load off of those wires even with a 55w bulb. Plus you no longer get the dimming effect at idle.
There is no reason why not to take the load off of those wires even with a 55w bulb. Plus you no longer get the dimming effect at idle.