"best" 2F

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I seriously doubt that the 1fz will have as much power as the true tractor motor does :flipoff2:
 
rgentry said:
Back to Jim's comments on balancing. I understand that it would be easy to put piston and rod pairs on a nice lab scale and carefully file off a little material to get the pistons and rods at the same weight as the lightest pair in the set of 6.

How though does one go about balancing a crank and flywheel? Seems like this would have to be done dynamically.
You take the whole rotating assembly to some one who balances engines :D

I had my 74 1/2F fully balanced (you should have SEEN the holes drilled in everything :eek: ) and they had to do the flywheel WITH the crank. (after they ballanced the crank)

runs sooo smooth it's insane.
 
Like has been mentioned already, an F engine intake will not bolt to a 2F exhaust. That appoach is a non-starter.

If I was going to run a turbo, I'd be fabricating both intake and exhaust. Keeping the stock units with a turbo is kinda like studding drag slicks to us on icey roads. It'll help, but why start at such a disadvantage?

I hope to be fabbing an intake for a NA 2F later on this year. Equal length runners to all six ports with a TBI unit on top of it all. When the time comes that I can actually devote the effort to a turbo setup I'll make manifolds for that too.


Mark...
 
I got out the scale for fun and was surprised that both the 3 speed and 4 speed pressure plates weighed in at 25lbs. The 4 speed flywheel is 34lbs and the 3 speed is 37lbs.
clutch.webp
 
FJ40Jim said:
Mace,
If you had to pick one 2F to build, the 85-end models are best. They have all the upgrades of the 81-85, plus in 85 they got:

-the 3F cylinder head, which gives the option of running the 3F manifolds
-the 3F head gasket with better coolant flow direction
-screw in oil galley plugs (I really like this)
-slight improvement w/ the 3piece thrust bearing
-torx screws in timing plate(which should be added to any engine).



Torx screws 90149-10001
 
Poser said:
Torx screws 90149-10001

We should have a 2F sticky with things like this, and maybe Butch's rebuild kit part numbers, etc.
Butch, I think Northern sells those same kits, at about those same prices.
The big plus with the PacLift kits was that it was all oem stuff, right down the f/r main seals, head gasket, oil pump. I've not tried one of the northern kits yet.
 
Jim stated that he was going to start a thread about all sorts of technical engine things...It will be made a stickie, and be in the FAQ when it gets going.


:beer:
 
treerootCO said:
I got out the scale for fun and was surprised that both the 3 speed and 4 speed pressure plates weighed in at 25lbs. The 4 speed flywheel is 34lbs and the 3 speed is 37lbs.

Plus - look at where the mass is located on the 3 spd - out at the edges...
 
I was looking at the stock exhaust manifold last night. It really is not overly restrictive. I suspect that the major improvment to be had with headers is more from the increase in exhaust diameter instead of anything else.

i am sure that an equal length header build would net a slightly better flowing exhaust, but considering I am just ramming it through a turbo anyway, the slightly smaller exhaust can increase the velocity of the exhaust gasses before they hit the turbo.. then the 3" single output covers the lack of back pressure.


Course, this is all benchracing ;)
 
PabloCruise said:
Plus - look at where the mass is located on the 3 spd - out at the edges...
Xactly.
Total mass is about the same, but the early FW concentrates the mass on the periphery giving the unit a noticeably higher polar moment of inertia.

One of those FW's on a 4.4litre 2F is almost stall-proof.

However, that same high polar moment that prevents the crankshaft slowing to a stall, also prevents the engine from speeding up easily. For mud bogs or a quick revving turbo engine, the flat FW is a better choice.
 
Mark W said:
I hope to be fabbing an intake for a NA 2F later on this year. Equal length runners to all six ports with a TBI unit on top of it all. When the time comes that I can actually devote the effort to a turbo setup I'll make manifolds for that too.


Mark...

Sign me up Mark!
 
quote:
Originally Posted by Mark W

I hope to be fabbing an intake for a NA 2F later on this year. Equal length runners to all six ports with a TBI unit on top of it all. When the time comes that I can actually devote the effort to a turbo setup I'll make manifolds for that too.


Mark... quote



Pics and an article for TT, please:):):)

chef
 
best 2F gasket set...?

Been a while since I needed a full gasket set...but I have a 78 2F I pulled from a junker to re-gasket/re-seal and put in my 1965 FJ45LV...runs good, shows 150+ psi on all six cylinders...
Is the complete FelPro kit I'm gonna get at Napa gonna be good stuff, or is it recommended to go to the dealer for:
Head gasket
Pan gasket (cause it's one pice instead of four?)
intake/exhaust
front and rear main seals, valve stem seals?

thanks, alan
 
Felpro is good stuff. So is ITM. At least as good as the OEM stuff. No real opinion on the others.


Mark...
 
Mark W said:
The domed pistons may be a US thing. I've only taken down one 2F that I knew for sure was a stock Canadian engine. It had flat tops with open combustion chambers.


Mark...

My 2F had flat tops with open chambered heads.
And it was rebuilt the same way.
Production date of 6/75
 
Mark W said:
Felpro is good stuff. So is ITM. At least as good as the OEM stuff. No real opinion on the others.


Mark...


Thanks Mark:) So you're good with the FelPro engine kit that has front/rear mains, head set, gasket, valve stem seals and all? Do you reacll if the pan gaket is one piece with FelPro?

alan
 
85 and newer..


or get the newest one you can find..
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom