"best" 2F

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Find one of the early intakes with the separate runners. Like Jim mentions the F style clutch and flywheel is hevier with more mass out at the edge. It'll rev slower but lug better and hold momentum on upshifts better.

Personally I've never had an issue with any clutch in these rigs failing to hold up to everything I've thrown at it. If you were running real larege tires and not enough gear to where you had to slip it a lot, or if you're doing dragstripp style clutch dumps at 4000 rpm and up... Then the clutch would take a lot of stress. But the way most use these rigs the clutch is fully engaged before it's really asked to deliver power. That's a pretty easy job for it.


I have a local clutch shop make mine and recon my PPs. They can beef things up if I want, but since I've never encountered a need I haven't worried about it.

Mark...
 
Personaly, the mass of a FW is better left alone. I want this motor to rev better. I have plenty of gearing to keep the motor turning. But the F FW is a good piece of info.

The current clutch that I have is a Chevy 11" disk with a Stock (79) Pressure plate that is fairly new. If I do a quick shift from one gear to another at high rpm's and floor it, it is like I have an auto ;)

I'll look for one of the siamese intakes..
 
Also on the older intakes, will they interfere with a newer Exhaust manifold?
 
Mark W said:
Find one of the early intakes with the separate runners. Like Jim mentions the F style clutch and flywheel is hevier with more mass out at the edge. It'll rev slower but lug better and hold momentum on upshifts better.

Mark or Jim,
Can one of you post the year again or a pic identifying the separate runner intake.

My recolection is vauge on what years it was.

It was something like a 73-74?
 
Cool, found one of the 69 manifolds.
:D


sooo,
a 85 plus block and heads with a 69 manifold.. Is one exhaust manifold better than the rest as well?
 
I like the single piece manifolds, but as far as flow is concerned I have no idea. You will need to open up the holes in your intake manifold 14mm studs opposed to 12mm. With an early manifold bolted to it, opening up the holes will surly be easier
 
Nope, my turbo mounts to the stock exhaust manifold...


Making a custom header is too much work for me.
 
FJ40Jim said:
For example, on my own junk I am running the heavier "inertia ring" type flywheel from a 73-earlier Cruiser



....and people have called me crazy when I said the F engine flywheel was heavier.


Thanks Jim.


:beer:
 
Poser said:
....and people have called me crazy when I said the F engine flywheel was heavier.


Thanks Jim.


:beer:
I don't think it was the flywheel that was making them call you crazy amigo ;)
 
You have only second-hand info...... at best....
 
Mace said:
I don't think it was the flywheel that was making them call you crazy amigo ;)

Walk into his shop wearing a Dallas Stars sweatshirt............he goes bug-nutty:flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 
Mace said:
Thanks for the info guys.

And yes, this motor will get flat abused. I am looking at well over 200hp at the rear wheels...

And a 6500K redline..

So, every little bit of work will help ;)

I'm thinking the 2F with more than 4 main bearings is the one you need
 
Gumby said:
I'm thinking the 2F with more than 4 main bearings is the one you need



LMAO!!!!


That is the funniest s*** yet this month!!!


:beer: :beer: :beer:
 
Funny part is that I had a buddy Bring me a 3F block to the Black hills Cruiser classic cause I thought that a 3F had 7 main bearings.... Boy was I wrong!!!


:D


I like this thread because it brings misconceptions out in to the open :)
 
Mace said:
Also on the older intakes, will they interfere with a newer Exhaust manifold?
Yes, the early intake is much closer to the head. There's no way to get the 2F exh manifold in there. They won't bolt together at all in the heat riser area, and there would be interference between in and ex runners.

The 69 manifold is a nice piece, but best served up with a side order of headers.:)

If the engine is gonna be supercharged (supercharged=any method of forced induction) , the intake manifold is not as important as a NA engine. If the intake poses a restriction, the boost can be adjusted up to compensate for the induced pressure loss of the inefficient manifold. I would lean toward using the less restrictive, crack-proof, 81-newer ex. manifold for use w/ a turbocharger. That would require a 75-newer intake manifold, or maybe a 3FE intake.
 
God dammit... I just bought a early intake!!!!!!!!


Better to know now than later I guess...

Anyone want a "high performance" intake???

:sad:
 
FJ40Jim said:
That's called 1FZ. :D

Seems as if it's easier to buy something like this, and skip all this "hot rod tech"
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=74203
:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
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