"best" 2F (2 Viewers)

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Thats actually a good Idea Jim!! Specially on how to dechipher them.
 
Okay, more numbers off of the block and head (gotta clean up the grease to see numbers...)


block 70702

Head 61040 and 0704
 
I am going to check that block number but I am fairly positive that is the number..


Serial on the block is... # is 2F 889248

Which would make it at least a late 85 block.....


Sooooo, how do you identify a 3F cylinder head?

and can I run the older intake and exhaust manifolds on it?
 
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Jim, I'll buy you a star for all the info you provide...
 
Mace said:
Sooooo, how do you identify a 3F cylinder head?

and can I run the older intake and exhaust manifolds on it?



The 3FE cylinder head will have multiple bolt patterns on the face that the manifold attaches to...You will see the larger bolt holes that your 2F manifolds will use, and there will be a lot of other bolt holes that are smaller, 10mm diameter iirc, that will not be used. I installed a new Toyota head from Cdan on the 12-82 40 tan truck last spring...I know I have pictures of this someplace.



Yes the earlier 2F (1975 and on) manifolds will bolt up to this head, no problem.



:beer:
 
Back to Jim's comments on balancing. I understand that it would be easy to put piston and rod pairs on a nice lab scale and carefully file off a little material to get the pistons and rods at the same weight as the lightest pair in the set of 6.

How though does one go about balancing a crank and flywheel? Seems like this would have to be done dynamically.
 
OK has anyone used these guys?
http://www.rpmrons.com/Toykits.html
# 4.2L 1975-87 Land Cruiser 2F engine
specify date of mfg.

* 4.2 Liter/4230 cc OHV L6 master engine kit TO4230MK $1163.38
* 4.2 Liter/4230 cc OHV L6 engine kit TO4230EK $562.92


Parts included in these master engine rebuild kits are: Pistons, rings, main and rod bearings, thrust washers (if applicable), jack shaft bearings (if applicable), cam bearings (if applicable), camshaft(s), lifters (if applicable), freeze plugs, gasket set, complete timing kit, and oil pump.
EK - kit is a master kit, less camshaft, lifters and timing set
 
Forgive me if I am wrong, but I understand that Toyota Blocks are incredibly resilant, and almost never need boring... So pistons are not typically needed in a rebuild.

so to do a full rebuild you will need bearings, rings, and whatever cam/bearings you want correct??

I need to mic out the block that I have. To see if the bores have opened up past reasonable spec..
 
They are, and I know that many folks have re-ringed and installed new rod bearings in an F or 2F at 150K after doing a valve job, and they are going strong yet today...I have an F at the shop that I am doing this to right now...the cross-hatching in the cylinder walls is still very apparent at 125K.



:beer:
 
PabloCruise said:
I'm in too...
Help thread on posting pics in Help section: https://forum.ih8mud.com/forumdisplay.php?f=16
Thanks Pablo. I've been reading up. Now I know how to attach a pic.

I think. :doh:

I'll try to get some date code pics to post up tomorrow.

And here is a pic of a hi-perf 2F going together. Note the use of the torx head timing plate screws, and the solid steel cam gear.
snip.JPG
 
Great info.....I wish this posted ealier.:)
 
FJ40Jim said:
Thanks, That'd be swell!
Then I can post more better pics for everyone's amusement.
Done...

So, is there any downside to a 85 newer motor??? Something to look out for? Perhaps some older parts that are better?
 
Thanks Mace!

:beer:

In terms of the longblock assembly, no downside that I'm aware of.

There are accesories that might be better.
For example, on my own junk I am running the heavier "inertia ring" type flywheel from a 73-earlier Cruiser, and the HD FJ45 pressure plate from Toyota.
 
There is the other side of the coin.. Which clutch will hold up the best to abuse?

Andrewfarmer just had a guy make his. Which one out there has the most clamping strength.
 

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