gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yeah that is a Homelink Transmitter body and the silver wire coming out of it and wrapping around is the antenna. You don't have homelink buttons?
Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (14 Viewers)
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Thanks for the pic. Ben sent me some measurements to see it’ll work. I’ll look into more this weekend. My homelink in question is this:
Not sure if anyone has installed the ScanGauge mount in that spot or not?
Could you make a mount for an S-Pod in the sunglasses holder??
I installed the 6 button switch panel in place of the Lexus Link panel. It fit just fine. The only difference is the square box and antenna for the garage door opener (circled in red below) won’t have a mounting location. I’m guessing if you’re going for the scan gauge version you probably would have enough room to Velcro it on top of the scan gauge. See where I circled In black in he photo below. You may need to bend the antenna slightly.
The box circled in red is the HomeLink electronics. Did you also mount the Lexus Link electronics above the new switches? If not, do you still have them and can maybe post a pic of them and how they live in above the Lexus Link panel? Thanks.
I stashed the Lexus Link controls in between the map light housings and the back of the switch mount. Circled in green.
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I appreciate the insight!
I don't care about any of the homelink controls but by the way people have mentioned it, i'm assuming you can't just tear it out?
I do want to keep the garage door opener capability though.
Homelink is the garage door opener control. I suspect you are referring to the Lexus Link though.
If he is, you can't tear it out or you'll get an error message (voice through speakers) every time you turn the truck on. I wrapped my Lexus link controls with tape and tucked them between the headliner and the roof just off to the side.
Yes, Lexus Link was what I referring too.
That's what I was concerned about. I suppose I'll have to deal with it.
BenCC
Supporting Vendor
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
OOOH!!!! That gives me an idea!!! Is that going to be used with one of the small/compact under seat powered subwoofers?
-Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer. Keep in mind that I had to widen the diameter on the box to make it fit
Parts Express
MDF 3/4 thick spacer ring. That Tang Band is too tall. Ran out of subwoofer options that clear the box. They all didnt work to my liking.
Ebay link
I believe I am Running 2x of the 8ohm 20W resistor inside the box wiring to prevent drawing too much power from the amp
Amazon
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Interesting setup. TangBand is good stuff too, always liked their speakers for home audio stuff.
-Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer. Keep in mind that I had to widen the diameter on the box to make it fit
Parts Express
MDF 3/4 thick spacer ring. That Tang Band is too tall. Ran out of subwoofer options that clear the box. They all didnt work to my liking.
Ebay link
I believe I am Running 2x of the 8ohm 20W resistor inside the box wiring to prevent drawing too much power from the amp
Amazon
I was thinking something more along the lines of utilizing a fully, self-contained sub like this. Knew more than a few guys in the 60 forum that threw these under the rear bench seat and had plenty of space for them without feeling like they might overheat. I don't personally want a huge amount of base, just something that will fill in the bottom end.
The idea would be to remove the old sub enclosure all together (or maybe not, maybe just the speaker) and mount on the OUTSIDE of the grill the above linked type of sub. This could give the extra space for the sub enclosure (would be a trial and error type thing as it would be adding volume and porting that may not play well with the enclosure). What I was thinking was @BenCC making a honeycomb structure to fill the gap and act as a rigidized mounting point.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Something similar to what you see here. Found this on OverlandBound’s Instagram a while back.
Neat idea! I'm sure it can be done for what you are trying to achieve. Keep it mind how its mounted if you have drawers back there. Otherwise let's see it in action!
I wanted to utilize the same enclosure without doing too much else. The cover should allow me to remove the speaker without removing the entire 3rd row panel if I run into any issues. None so far and this TangBand is pretty sweet!
The enclosure is ported on the left side where the tire jack is. Covered it with a micro fiber towel and I have no chaffing or any weird noises while allowing the box to breathe a little. Speaker was not having it when fully sealed.
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yeah no drawers or anything in my future so not to worry about that. Once I get to that point I will definitely keep everyone informed. Will work with Ben to get something designed up when the time comes.
Finally got my Kenwood mounted in the overhead console. Now just need to finish wiring everything up.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Otter is that the stock auto-dimming mirror?? If so could you measure width and height for me??
It is the stock mirror. 11" wide at the widest spot, and 3" high in the center.
