The side hood pads I have are stock, not sure what the front holes are for, it came that way from the PO. The front hood pads came from BTB. The twisting during my off-roading chewed up the stock pads. The BTB hood pads work better for me.
Because the WIFE said I COULDN'T 1973 Frame off
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- #163
Yep,
They open back up on Wednesday. I'll take a picture of the stock un-altered latch and the hook.
I think I will have to call Cruiser Corps and ask them if they have had problems with any others. Sadly I threw the old ones away already to compare them to.
That said I orderd the rest of my suspension parts today as well as the fuel tank. If they arrive (some from California, and the rest from Texas...CCOT is reliable but slow to recognize they recieved your order) by Friday night we will get a lot done this weekend and be really close to getting it moving. Windsheild should be in by Friday and I hope to diagnose the electrical problem by then.
Also of interesting note I decided to order some adhesive poly sheets to try and reduce the friction between my spring packs when I rebuild them this week. If anything it will be an interesting take in reducing the stiffness in our springs. As of now they are completely rusted together and will not droop or compress no matter how much you jack up the truck or weight you put on it. Old rubber bushings and rust are a bad combination.
Also for note. If you are trying to put a lift on or replacing your bushings and having a hard time getting your spring pins out of the rubber. Heat and penetrants didn't do a thing...well a little bit. But the most effective method is using the thread in the sping pin hanger. Just simply put a plumbers wrench on there and turn it counter-clockwise out about 1/2 the way. Then you can put a punch in and beat it out with hammer. May not work for everybody but that is my TTP for the day.
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Jason,
We just ran in into this issue with our own Cruiser. It seems that if the year of the hood is not the same as the year of the apron, the length of the hooks will not work.
We installed a split hood with later year aprons and ended up cutting down the very end of the hook in order to connect to the scallop on the apron. It was a pain in the butt. At this point, all we can suggest in making sure your panels are consistent - BUT we're open to other suggestions.
The hood hooks themselves are not the problem.
Call me if you have some other thoughts on this. 405-607-2240/866-590-3540
thx!
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- #165
Hmmm I'm not really sure how I can tell if the Aprons are originally from this truck or not (or the hood for that matter).
Does anyone have a way of finding out so we can solve this mystery. I'm not really fond of cutting my hooks as they are so far off that there wouldn't be anything left for them to hook to.
I could cut them off and try to rivit them up higher but I really don't feel like repainting that...though I could.
Thanks for the response and if you have some pictures from your cruiser so I can see how much you had to cut please let me know. The most confusing thing is the old ones that were on the cruiser fit no problem. I really wish I hadn't of tossed them. So that means there are either differnt length hooks on other years or these are all stock panels. Juding from rust, bolts, and the original tan paint on all parts I'm 99% sure they were all stock.
Does anyone have a way of finding out so we can solve this mystery. I'm not really fond of cutting my hooks as they are so far off that there wouldn't be anything left for them to hook to.
I could cut them off and try to rivit them up higher but I really don't feel like repainting that...though I could.
Thanks for the response and if you have some pictures from your cruiser so I can see how much you had to cut please let me know. The most confusing thing is the old ones that were on the cruiser fit no problem. I really wish I hadn't of tossed them. So that means there are either differnt length hooks on other years or these are all stock panels. Juding from rust, bolts, and the original tan paint on all parts I'm 99% sure they were all stock.
Here is one of our hooks.
BTW We took our truck out mudding this weekend and they latches held up just fine.
BTW We took our truck out mudding this weekend and they latches held up just fine.
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- #167
I will look at it closer tomorrow and give it a shot if I am close enough.
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- #168
I figure some pictures are better than none...they are pretty crappy but ohh well. 1 door complete (minus plugs) and the other one mostly there. Also did a bit of prep for the suspension that (minus the u-bolts) should be finished up this weekend.
If your looking for a restoration project to do on your rig but don't want to put it out service the doors are a good one. New outer seal, outer wiper, inner felt all around and the window vent. May help keep things dry and rust free inside. It is one of those things nobody will ever notice you did and it cost entirely to much money...but if you have that nice rig and are looking to go a bit further it is a fun thing you can do in a weekend.
By the way that is not rust...it is actually that old red paint I believe or some primer from the factory. Not really sure. I can't really tell you how to tear apart the window mechanisim or door latch. I never got that far. I need to though as the old original paint doesnt' match my color I'm using everywhere else.
If your looking for a restoration project to do on your rig but don't want to put it out service the doors are a good one. New outer seal, outer wiper, inner felt all around and the window vent. May help keep things dry and rust free inside. It is one of those things nobody will ever notice you did and it cost entirely to much money...but if you have that nice rig and are looking to go a bit further it is a fun thing you can do in a weekend.
By the way that is not rust...it is actually that old red paint I believe or some primer from the factory. Not really sure. I can't really tell you how to tear apart the window mechanisim or door latch. I never got that far. I need to though as the old original paint doesnt' match my color I'm using everywhere else.
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- #169
We will see what I can get done after work today. Hopefully finish the other door and freshen up my springs. Work is going to be busy though so we will see. It might be one of those just weekend things here for the next week or so.
Ohh yeah here is that pic I was referencing above.
This is how I'm taking care of saggy springs and comfortably fitting 31x10.5" tires. Sadly they were a little tight on the bushings and had to gring an 1/8' off each bushing to slide them on. That and the bolts were slightly big. I had to thread them in thru the bushings. I'm figureing they were for a newer FJ40 with the bigger bushing??? The front shackles are slightly shorter. Hopefully it doesn't look to goofy.
Ohh yeah here is that pic I was referencing above.
This is how I'm taking care of saggy springs and comfortably fitting 31x10.5" tires. Sadly they were a little tight on the bushings and had to gring an 1/8' off each bushing to slide them on. That and the bolts were slightly big. I had to thread them in thru the bushings. I'm figureing they were for a newer FJ40 with the bigger bushing??? The front shackles are slightly shorter. Hopefully it doesn't look to goofy.
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- #170
Had some fun tonight getting the front drums off. One side came off pretty easy. Basically had to unbolt the brake cylinders and pull it all out at once. The other side not so much.
Bad pictures just don't do it justice. The groove must have been about 1/4"...it was amazing. Luckily one of the four autoparts stores could order me one and it will be here Friday. I was about to give up and call Toyota in the morning but Advanced came thru. The otherside was actually just fine.
Also had to put the U-bolts in the vise to compress them enough to fit. Not the most productive day as I fought everything (still fighting one of them). But hey just another day in a rebuild. She should be down on the ground and ready to roll if I can find a spring for my fuel pump and work out some small electrical issues.
Bad pictures just don't do it justice. The groove must have been about 1/4"...it was amazing. Luckily one of the four autoparts stores could order me one and it will be here Friday. I was about to give up and call Toyota in the morning but Advanced came thru. The otherside was actually just fine.
Also had to put the U-bolts in the vise to compress them enough to fit. Not the most productive day as I fought everything (still fighting one of them). But hey just another day in a rebuild. She should be down on the ground and ready to roll if I can find a spring for my fuel pump and work out some small electrical issues.
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- #171
Today I got a bit of work done. I took yesterday off to enjoy the nice weather we were having and catch up on a bit of work around the house. To include cleaning up the LX450 and putting it up for sale on our lemon lot on post.
So today I managed to get all of the new ball joints in as well as the steering stabalizer. I bent a couple more brake lines and hooked those up as well. I was only there for about 4 hours so really not a lot done. The ball joints were hard to get out but only one required an actual breaker bar. But I'm glad they are all in and it should be like new under there.
Now onto the brake cylinders. I can't get them apart to save my life...not even budge. I want to rebuild them. To learn and save about 400 bucks over buying the next cheapest unit I could find.
Can someone explain to me how to get stuck cylinders apart?
I threw on the wheels anyway just to see how she looks. The shocks I had won't work so I need to buy some new longer ones. The front is VERY NICE. The rebuild I did on them worked very very well. The polyeurthane that I put in between them made a huge difference. Well that and getting rid of all that rust holding them together. Did I mention that they wouldn't even move...talk about no flex. The rears on the other...well I think it has more to do with my very s***ty shakle angle. Sadly nothing I can really do about that without moving the spring perch and I'm not going to dive that far in. I really do like the stance though. Should settle down a bit when I get the hard top spare tire on.
Here are the tools of the trade for today.
So today I managed to get all of the new ball joints in as well as the steering stabalizer. I bent a couple more brake lines and hooked those up as well. I was only there for about 4 hours so really not a lot done. The ball joints were hard to get out but only one required an actual breaker bar. But I'm glad they are all in and it should be like new under there.
Now onto the brake cylinders. I can't get them apart to save my life...not even budge. I want to rebuild them. To learn and save about 400 bucks over buying the next cheapest unit I could find.
Can someone explain to me how to get stuck cylinders apart?
I threw on the wheels anyway just to see how she looks. The shocks I had won't work so I need to buy some new longer ones. The front is VERY NICE. The rebuild I did on them worked very very well. The polyeurthane that I put in between them made a huge difference. Well that and getting rid of all that rust holding them together. Did I mention that they wouldn't even move...talk about no flex. The rears on the other...well I think it has more to do with my very s***ty shakle angle. Sadly nothing I can really do about that without moving the spring perch and I'm not going to dive that far in. I really do like the stance though. Should settle down a bit when I get the hard top spare tire on.
Here are the tools of the trade for today.
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- #172
Just a few more of it kinda comming together.
Very nice!
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- #174
Well little happening here and there.
Got all of the new tie rods in and the new stabalizer on.
I got it running but I have no exhaust so it is loud. Also have the distributor off a tooth as I had to advance it about 20 degrees to get it right.
Also am having to jump a hot wire to my coil. I've got 3 wires that look liked they belong there. 1 black and two that are black with a white stripe (maybe one is a really faded yellow). Tried to figure out what was hot and ground but didn't seem to work.
Master on the clutch gave out. It used to be fine. So now that I replaced the slave I need to go and rebuild the master.
Can't bleed the front brakes I just rebuilt as one of the hydraulic rubber lines is clogged/rusted/broke inside and I can't get fluid past it so I need to order one of those (hoping to get locally but found online if need be).
I'm running an electric fuel pump right now and it leaks a bit of fuel into the carb when on and not running. I can see drip inside.
Windshield should be going in Thursday or Friday or Saturday..who knows.
Also still have a bad ground somewhere. I still don't have heater fans or head lights. I do get the lights on in my dash though when I pull the lights switch. I also don't have any guages.
Anyone know where to look for that? I need to push past this last crappy part. Need to find new shocks that actually fit now. Mine to short to begin with but would have worked. Now with the longer shackles there is no way. Sadly won't have time after work this week so it might be another (I hope I have all the parts for s*** that keeps breaking weekend). If anything is on my side though I will be driving it around the parking lot and it will be on a trailer to the exhaust shop in a couple of weeks.
Got all of the new tie rods in and the new stabalizer on.
I got it running but I have no exhaust so it is loud. Also have the distributor off a tooth as I had to advance it about 20 degrees to get it right.
Also am having to jump a hot wire to my coil. I've got 3 wires that look liked they belong there. 1 black and two that are black with a white stripe (maybe one is a really faded yellow). Tried to figure out what was hot and ground but didn't seem to work.
Master on the clutch gave out. It used to be fine. So now that I replaced the slave I need to go and rebuild the master.
Can't bleed the front brakes I just rebuilt as one of the hydraulic rubber lines is clogged/rusted/broke inside and I can't get fluid past it so I need to order one of those (hoping to get locally but found online if need be).
I'm running an electric fuel pump right now and it leaks a bit of fuel into the carb when on and not running. I can see drip inside.
Windshield should be going in Thursday or Friday or Saturday..who knows.
Also still have a bad ground somewhere. I still don't have heater fans or head lights. I do get the lights on in my dash though when I pull the lights switch. I also don't have any guages.
Anyone know where to look for that? I need to push past this last crappy part. Need to find new shocks that actually fit now. Mine to short to begin with but would have worked. Now with the longer shackles there is no way. Sadly won't have time after work this week so it might be another (I hope I have all the parts for s*** that keeps breaking weekend). If anything is on my side though I will be driving it around the parking lot and it will be on a trailer to the exhaust shop in a couple of weeks.
damn that rig is looking sessy!
nice work man
nice work man
for the coil ( at least for my 1964 the BY ( black and yellow ) wire should go to the positive of your coil,
The BW ( black and white ) should be ignition ground wire goes to the ground of the starter
The black wire has me stumped though.
I have a black wire that runs from the negative of the coil to the distributer ( to ground the distributer )
I would look at your year wiring diagram if you have one though
here is a wiring diagram for a 1971, yours a 1973?
Untitled Document
The BW ( black and white ) should be ignition ground wire goes to the ground of the starter
The black wire has me stumped though.
I have a black wire that runs from the negative of the coil to the distributer ( to ground the distributer )
I would look at your year wiring diagram if you have one though
here is a wiring diagram for a 1971, yours a 1973?
Untitled Document
take some photos of your wiring and we can try to sort it ( by your starter and coil etc )
ok scotch time
ok scotch time
take some photos of your wiring and we can try to sort it ( by your starter and coil etc )
ok scotch time
ok scotch time
I think Destin has it. Haynes manual wiring diagram doesn't show a BW wire, but the BY wire is to the positive terminal on the coil and the B wire probably goes from the negative side of the coil to the dissy, at least on other similar trucks (1972 FJ55 for example according to Haynes) it does.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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- #180
Well I had some fuses missing but they should have been in the same spot as when it ran before. I'm just going to put all new fuses in tomorrow to make sure. Maybe I have two BY wires for some reasno as they look the same, are the same length and have the same connectors. I'll take a picture tomorrow.
I think the 71 might have a few things different but is close to the 73. I know the ignitino is in a different spot and I'm on the floor instead of the column so who knows.
Thank you though and hopefully can get this thing driving under its own power this weekend. If I can just get those hydraulic brake lines in and my clutch rebuilt.
I think the 71 might have a few things different but is close to the 73. I know the ignitino is in a different spot and I'm on the floor instead of the column so who knows.
Thank you though and hopefully can get this thing driving under its own power this weekend. If I can just get those hydraulic brake lines in and my clutch rebuilt.
