uHu- thanks for offering the info. I've followed the FSM to the letter, but the preload never gets much above 3-4lb f with a spindle nut torque value of 5 or 6Ft lbs. And to be fair, I don't even trust my digital 3/8" torque wrench to be very accurate at 5 ft lbs torque.
I've concluded that this whole process boils down to prioritizing break way preload- over adjusting nut torque (as it relates to the FSM). I guess time will tell.
Preface that everything bearing related is NEW: bearings, races, thrust washers, spindle nuts, lock washer, washers, nuts, cone washers etc.
Anyway after spending waaaay too much time trying to get the DS preload where I wanted it, I kept adding torque to the adjusting nut until I achieved consistent 13-14 lbf on the fish scale, buttoned up the DS and called it a day. It eventually took 40ft lbs of torque on the adjusting nut, but it just seemed like too much torque even though the break away preload was in the specified range.
With the DS done I was still unsure of my work. I started reading again. I read a lot of posts in several threads in both the 80 & 100 section regarding the torque values, FSM instructions vs achieving FSM preload values. Lots a varying detail. But it seems many of us have had the same issue of requiring higher torque values to achieve break away preload to FSM specs.
Kudos to 2001LC who has thoroughly documented a comprehensive list of experiences relative to this process which builds on several years of posts and thousands of miles. Many Thanks!! All this led me to some worries about my work: Maybe too much adjusting nut torque because I had a lot of excess grease on the bearing faces & races, & thrust washer. I had grease on the spindle threads, and a very liberal amount of grease on the spindle itself....I think too much grease everywhere. I think this was affecting the torque requirements & preload settings.
On the PS I tried a different approach. I had read several posts on setting final torque on the spindle nut to 25ft lbs (Tools method). So I wiped the excess grease from the bearing faces, and races. I applied a very thin film layer of grease to the spindle. Slid the rotor on and installed the outer bearing , thrust washer (dry), and adjusting nut(dry). Torqued to 43ftlbs to seat the bearings and backed off and repeated a few times. I then torqued the spindle nut to 25ftlbs and checked preload and got 11-12 lb f consistently.... bingo. I torqued the locking nut and measured again; averaged 13lb f. Good to go.
Based on the stellar results from the PS I went back and pulled the DS apart and started over. I removed the rotor and cleaned the excess grease from the bearing faces, thrust washer, spindle and threads. Replaced the rotor, and went through the same process: 43ftlbs to seat bearings, back off & repeat a few times. Then set to 25ftlbs and checked preload: 8.5-10lbs. I increased the torque to 28ftlbs- got close to 10lb f preload consistently, then increased torque again to 30ftlbs and got 10-11ftlbs and stopped. Installed locking nut torqued to 47ftlbs and checked preload and got consistent 12.5-13.5 lbf. Set the lock washer in place and called it a day. The takeaway here is that it took less adjusting nut torque to get preload in range by wiping away the excess grease.
I think my DS spindle is worn, worn enough to require more adjusting nut torque than the PS to achieve the same preload. Does that make any sense? Another indication was the PS side felt completely different the from the first point that I installed the rotor on the spindle. It felt tighter, there was more resistance, and it was quick to settle and torque. The snap ring on the DS is also 1 step thicker than the PS. The rotors and pads were replaced just before I bought the truck. They reused the bearings, rear dust seal, and left the old grease in there. Everything was hammered caveman style. The adjusting nut, and locking nut were Chernobyled on both PS & DS from the mechanic using a chisel to tighten the nuts. The thrust washer on the DS was heavily grooved on both sides- the cone washers were toast as well. Much of the right front end noise clunking I was having especially on downshifts was related to loose bearing preload. I think this accelerated the wear on the spindle and related components.
Test drive (hwy) for 15 miles- temps on the hubs were around 120degrees DS 125 PS. Drive another 15 miles checked again, 125 DS and 130 PS. I dont have a reference for what the temps ought to be, but they should comedown as the bearings wear in. It drives smooth- no vibes.
Really thankful for the wisdom and experience shared here on Mud. Great community, it's given me much more confidence in my wrenching skills. Thanks!
I've concluded that this whole process boils down to prioritizing break way preload- over adjusting nut torque (as it relates to the FSM). I guess time will tell.
Preface that everything bearing related is NEW: bearings, races, thrust washers, spindle nuts, lock washer, washers, nuts, cone washers etc.
Anyway after spending waaaay too much time trying to get the DS preload where I wanted it, I kept adding torque to the adjusting nut until I achieved consistent 13-14 lbf on the fish scale, buttoned up the DS and called it a day. It eventually took 40ft lbs of torque on the adjusting nut, but it just seemed like too much torque even though the break away preload was in the specified range.
With the DS done I was still unsure of my work. I started reading again. I read a lot of posts in several threads in both the 80 & 100 section regarding the torque values, FSM instructions vs achieving FSM preload values. Lots a varying detail. But it seems many of us have had the same issue of requiring higher torque values to achieve break away preload to FSM specs.
Kudos to 2001LC who has thoroughly documented a comprehensive list of experiences relative to this process which builds on several years of posts and thousands of miles. Many Thanks!! All this led me to some worries about my work: Maybe too much adjusting nut torque because I had a lot of excess grease on the bearing faces & races, & thrust washer. I had grease on the spindle threads, and a very liberal amount of grease on the spindle itself....I think too much grease everywhere. I think this was affecting the torque requirements & preload settings.
On the PS I tried a different approach. I had read several posts on setting final torque on the spindle nut to 25ft lbs (Tools method). So I wiped the excess grease from the bearing faces, and races. I applied a very thin film layer of grease to the spindle. Slid the rotor on and installed the outer bearing , thrust washer (dry), and adjusting nut(dry). Torqued to 43ftlbs to seat the bearings and backed off and repeated a few times. I then torqued the spindle nut to 25ftlbs and checked preload and got 11-12 lb f consistently.... bingo. I torqued the locking nut and measured again; averaged 13lb f. Good to go.
Based on the stellar results from the PS I went back and pulled the DS apart and started over. I removed the rotor and cleaned the excess grease from the bearing faces, thrust washer, spindle and threads. Replaced the rotor, and went through the same process: 43ftlbs to seat bearings, back off & repeat a few times. Then set to 25ftlbs and checked preload: 8.5-10lbs. I increased the torque to 28ftlbs- got close to 10lb f preload consistently, then increased torque again to 30ftlbs and got 10-11ftlbs and stopped. Installed locking nut torqued to 47ftlbs and checked preload and got consistent 12.5-13.5 lbf. Set the lock washer in place and called it a day. The takeaway here is that it took less adjusting nut torque to get preload in range by wiping away the excess grease.
I think my DS spindle is worn, worn enough to require more adjusting nut torque than the PS to achieve the same preload. Does that make any sense? Another indication was the PS side felt completely different the from the first point that I installed the rotor on the spindle. It felt tighter, there was more resistance, and it was quick to settle and torque. The snap ring on the DS is also 1 step thicker than the PS. The rotors and pads were replaced just before I bought the truck. They reused the bearings, rear dust seal, and left the old grease in there. Everything was hammered caveman style. The adjusting nut, and locking nut were Chernobyled on both PS & DS from the mechanic using a chisel to tighten the nuts. The thrust washer on the DS was heavily grooved on both sides- the cone washers were toast as well. Much of the right front end noise clunking I was having especially on downshifts was related to loose bearing preload. I think this accelerated the wear on the spindle and related components.
Test drive (hwy) for 15 miles- temps on the hubs were around 120degrees DS 125 PS. Drive another 15 miles checked again, 125 DS and 130 PS. I dont have a reference for what the temps ought to be, but they should comedown as the bearings wear in. It drives smooth- no vibes.
Really thankful for the wisdom and experience shared here on Mud. Great community, it's given me much more confidence in my wrenching skills. Thanks!
surprise. Left by a Lexus dealer no less.
