Bearing repack GURUs

[2001LC]

01,

Have you replaced this seal yet? Mine seemed to have lost its shape a bit in a few areas, and the seal material itself was somewhat stiff- it tends harden up with age, gets loose and doesn't do a good job at sealing out the dust and wet.

Also is there a consensus on wheel bearing grease for the Timken bearings? You seemed to have been studying bearing life, under various conditions figured you might have a go-to suggestion. There are so many opinions, options, misinformation its kind of hard to narrow to a choice.

Synthetic- Mobil 1, Valvoline Synguard, Timken Performance Race Grease
Moly-fortified: Valvoline Durablend or Synguard
Non-moly-Non Synthetic: Timken Wheel bearing grease, Lucas Green

View attachment 1279062

I' have replaced the oil seal, but only if rubber of seal is damaged or metal is to far gone (rusted). FSM states none reusable but at (IIRC) ~$50 its pricy for secondary seal. As you can see I put marin grease all over it front and back and same with gasket, additional I grease cavity lightly to protect from rusting. I just make sure the weep hole is open so water can escape the wheel sensor area.

Before I repack bearings I use some NAPA degreasing solvent, high pressure water, then high pressure air and pack with grease before any rust can start.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease, in fact for all lubes and oils. Why because it good stuff and is readily available for greases, ATF, gear lube & oil making life simple. Any grease will do provide it states "for wheel bearing" which is for high speed. EP greases should not be used, nor moly greases. EP is low speed extreme pressure and moly retains heat. I fill cavity of hub with grease just enough so some grease can force its way into bearings by centrifugal force, but do not over fill or it will retain addition heat.

 

[abuck99]

Thanks for your input- duly noted on the grease much appreciated and yeah that seal is pricey, like $52-

The cavity where the sensor lives is a little rusty so I'll follow your process to clean and grease- I've got some of that marine grease in the shop.

When replacing the bearings is the removal and install of the races fairly straight forward? Tips-wisdom?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for your input- duly noted on the grease much appreciated and yeah that seal is pricey, like $52-

The cavity where the sensor lives is a little rusty so I'll follow your process to clean and grease- I've got some of that marine grease in the shop.

When replacing the bearings is the removal and install of the races fairly straight forward? Tips-wisdom?

I've never replace bearings & races. @AimCOtaco once told me; by putting races in freezer and heat hubs (heat lamp, heat gun etc.) races will slip right in by hand.

 

[abuck99]

I've done it on my Offroad bikes, using the freezer process but hadnt done it to a brake disc off my truck. Can't be too different

 

[AimCOtaco]

I've never replace bearings & races. @AimCOtaco once told me; by putting races in freezer and heat hubs (heat lamp, heat gun etc.) races will slip right in by hand.

Yep, that was me; I put the races in the freezer and a heat lamp resting on the hub on a metal table in the morning and went to work, came home at lunch time and they slid right in. You have to go fast and straight because the hub will heat them right up locking them in.

I always take an old race (removed and ready for the junk pile) and reduce the OD on a grinder so you have a correct size tool for install but be very careful doing this as it will be hard steel on hard steel when used. I use the reduced races with a wood block to gently seat the new races as they cool.

 

[jayLC1]

With absolute respect to those that buy OE every time, and those who sell them on this list, I have a question on sourcing.

I used to maintain databases in the automotive aftermarket, and a typically the OE supplier would turn back around and sell that same part as an aftermarket part for 1/5 the price. Thus, you are literally talking about the typical difference being the box.

Anyone know who makes the Toyota bearings, or if any of the manufacturers at say Rockauto.com might be a supplier? I would prefer to pay $10 rather then $80 if possible.

Here is the Rock Auto List:
List: 2004 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.7L V8 Wheel Bearing | RockAuto

Thoughts? Who are the suppliers?

 

[2001LC]

Great deal OEM kit. You'll also need to order snap ring of thickness you need.
Part# FAWB9807T - $80
Timken Bearings (OEM Toyota Supplier)
(Fits 98'-07' UZJ100 & LX470, also includes thrust washer)
Cruiser Outfitters

 

[jayLC1]

Great deal OEM kit. You'll also need to order snap ring of thickness you need.
Part# FAWB9807T - $80
Timken Bearings (OEM Toyota Supplier)
(Fits 98'-07' UZJ100 & LX470, also includes thrust washer)
Cruiser Outfitters

That IS a good deal. I spent an hour picking through an OE catalog from one source (buying all but bearings and every size of snap ring) and bought the Timken bearings from another source (rockauto.com). Probably spent $30 more after shipping but I needed to order other stuff.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Great deal OEM kit. You'll also need to order snap ring of thickness you need.
Part# FAWB9807T - $80
Timken Bearings (OEM Toyota Supplier)
(Fits 98'-07' UZJ100 & LX470, also includes thrust washer)
Cruiser Outfitters

Thanks!

We are quite proud of our axle & bearing kits and they come only with the highest quality bearings, seals and gaskets:

FAWB9807T

FAWB9807KIT

 

[apdxyk]

In addition to the excellent Mobil 1 grease recommendation, I dare to add the MB-Approval 265.1 List as a reference for the benefit of our global community..

 

[jemsec]

Suggestion: Don't go cheap trying to save a few dollars. You'll pay in the end.

 

[abuck99]

Digging in to replace front bearings and races tomorrow.

Wondering if I should set the bearing preload towards the upper limit of 15 lbs spring pull, thinking that preload may drop a little in the first few thousand miles.

Thoughts?

Compliments to Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters for the making the complete bearing kit an easy choice - with super fast shipping, and quick response to emails.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Digging in to replace front bearings and races tomorrow.

Wondering if I should set the bearing preload towards the upper limit of 15 lbs spring pull, thinking that preload may drop a little in the first few thousand miles.

Thoughts?

Yes, with fresh bearings we always recommned going to the upper limit with your pre-load.

Compliments to Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters for the making the complete bearing kit an easy choice - with super fast shipping, and quick response to emails.

Thank you!

 

[abuck99]

Dang that was fast Kurt- thanks.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Dang that was fast Kurt- thanks.

My pleasure!

 

[abuck99]

Ok Guru's: New bearings & races in. But getting preload set to 13-to-15lbs of pull on my fish scale is requiring about 50ft+ ft lbs of torque on the spindle nut.

I assumed with new bearings it would require less torque on the spindle nut to achieve a consistent 14-15 lbs of preload. Seems counter intuitive to crank the spindle up to 50 ftlbs of torque when the manual says 55 inch lbs( 5ft lbs.) Spindle nut torque at 55inch pounds yields about 3-4lb f preload.

Need some help: I have a choice: Set Preload 15lb f with 50ftlbs torque on spindle nut, or 3-4lb f with 55 inch pounds.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I would absolutely err with the actual preload measurement. Make sure your spindle nuts don't have any high spots (such as getting removed/installed with a chisel) and make sure you tighten, spin, back-off and repeat to seat that bearing.

 

[abuck99]

Thanks Kurt-

New spindle nuts installed. Right now Im getting an average of 11lb f with 40ftlbs spindle nut torque. I'd like to get up to 15lb f but its a lot of torque to achieve that. but maybe I should stop at 11-12 lb f preload. (I made doubly sure the races were fully seated as well; light & magnifying glass, mirror to inspect)

My process has been tighten, spin the rotor in direction of travel- measure with scale on each lug- average all 5 to obtain my figure. Tighten to torque value again- repeat- tighten to torque value again - repeat.

FYI Scale is electronic- I checked it- pretty accurate with in an ounce with a 10 lb weight.

 

[uHu]

If you follow the fsm religiously, it says to tighten nut hard, then spin hub, then undo the nut to finger tight, and then (without rotating the hub) tighten to the low torque, and then measure the STARTing Preload. Observe that at this point, the hub has not been moved since the nut was tightened to 10 times the current torque.
I've had the same experience with getting whacky measurements, but after re-reading a few times, and doing Only what is says to do, I've managed to get the figures within the ballpark.

PS
Hard = 43 ft-lb
Low torque = 50 in-lb

PS2
Tis a bit like adjusting the E-brake - The instructions don't make sense, initinally, but if you follow them, the brakes are good.

 

[2001LC]

Your right uHu, it doesn't specifically say rotate hub again at that point, but does subsequently say too.

I find that if hub not rotated in direction of travel it will tend to hang up, giving a higher breakaway reading. I like to take multiple readings too get average, which induces rotating.

The next step in the FSM procedure is: 3. a) Install locking washer & nut. b) Torque locking nut to 47 ft-lbf. c) Check that axle rotates smoothly. d) Recheck preload (in direction of travel).

In all I end up rotate many times before done setting preload.