BAW80 (Bad A$$ Wife's 80) a build thread (1 Viewer)

[NCFJ]

We are both really liking the ride, new springs and shocks sure make a difference! Getting accustomed to the height.

 

[NCFJ]

I think we have picked our gauges. Even called "Cruiser" by Autometer

 

[JohnVee]

I like those gauges a lot. I searched for something very similar for my Spitfire before I lost interest and bought a 40.

Will you fab a new dash panel or cut them open to fit the existing locations?


...via IH8MUD app

 

[hanniemarie2]

looks fantastic! your wife is a lucky woman sliders and a bumper are definitely needed though

 

[NCFJ]

I'll make a new dash panel, it's actually easier than trying to adapt to existing layout. Sliders and bumper are on the list along with many other items. We were talking about the center dash layout today. All I need keep is the climate control panel, The rest can be layed out to desire.

 

[NCFJ]

I put the Iron Man 2" lift/level on Heather's 80. Right about 4" up front. I know that it needs castor correction. Here's the issue, at first I just kept the 275/70/16 ( 31.16") BFG ATs it tracked fine drove just fine. Swapped on the 285/70/17 ( 32.71") BFG KM2s and it is scary to take past 50. Darts all over the place and bump steers. The difference is profound.

I was really hoping to hold off on the castor correction bushings until I installed the Y-link steering and then would get it aligned at the same time.

Any thoughts on why the huge change, tires are less than 6% bigger. All I can figure is the rotational mass is enough to through it over the edge.

 

[NCFJ]

looks fantastic! your wife is a lucky woman sliders and a bumper are definitely needed though

Thanks Hannah, it is getting there. These sliders OK? 1.5" X 2.5" rect tube on the bottom, tucked close 1.5" tube with expanded metal on top

 

[Rice]

Thanks Hannah, it is getting there. These sliders OK? 1.5" X 2.5" rect tube on the bottom, tucked close 1.5" tube with expanded metal on top

Those look great.

Will you have dogs jumping into and out of the rig? I have expanded metal on my sliders which can catch dog nails and pull them out. A painful mess. Your design appears it will not be as big of a problem.

 

[hanniemarie2]

Thanks Hannah, it is getting there. These sliders OK? 1.5" X 2.5" rect tube on the bottom, tucked close 1.5" tube with expanded metal on top

wow I really like those! are you leaving them that color?

 

[NCFJ]

Thanks Hannah, I painted them the hammered black/bronze to match the front bumper

 

[ontherxs]

Stan, looking good man. What brand wench is that? I like the profile.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

About your tires, not only is the thread pattern more aggressive, but they're wider, so caster symptoms, such as wander, will be exaggerated.

 

[NCFJ]

I am on the same page Johnny, thinking size,weight,width. Have the castor correction bushings, ordered the frame mount side bushings as well. I'll do that and see how much of a change it makes. The difference was just so profound it took me off guard. Right now, eith the KM2s it is unsafe over 50 MPH. I put the ATs back on it.

 

[mtweller]

Those wheels push the centerline out further as well, which changes the steering geometry. Not sure if the wheels were the same before or not, but if not, it could explain a lot. Pushes the load out significantly front the trunions.

 

[NCFJ]

I thought about that too Ramon. The wheel back spacing is the same, not sure about width of wheel though. I think it is pretty much a case of all of the above together. Hopefully the CC bushings make the difference

I am switching over to a Y-link steering system, once I have that on I will take it and see what the alignment numbers are.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Why are you moving to a y-link setup? Does the factory setup leave something to be desired?

Since it's a y-link the tie rod has to be up front instead of behind the axle, so are you going to run into any clearance issues when you do that?

 

[NCFJ]

Took a little drive down to Griffin Thermal Products today and picked up my FJ80 direct fit radiator. This one is set up with both hoses on the PS for a 5.3L Vortec along with the correct sizing. It also has a steam port. Some changes may be required for the AT cooler lines. This radiator will be available from Griffin in both stock and LS series configuration.

 

[NCFJ]

Why are you moving to a y-link setup? Does the factory setup leave something to be desired?

Since it's a y-link the tie rod has to be up front instead of behind the axle, so are you going to run into any clearance issues when you do that?

The tie rod can be an issue with the oil pan on a Vortec swap. The Y-link removes it from behind the axle and also gives me GM one ton TREs. No issue of contact with radius arms either.

 

[NCFJ]

Those look great.

Will you have dogs jumping into and out of the rig? I have expanded metal on my sliders which can catch dog nails and pull them out. A painful mess. Your design appears it will not be as big of a problem.

Our dogs get in the truck once in a while. I do not see it as an issue as the expanded metal is hammered flat to the tubes then welded. Good catch though

 

[roadstr6]

Those sliders look great, Stan. I was checking those pretty close at the M&G. I like the hammered-over expanded metal. That greasy, red URE mud can make climbing in a rig very treacherous at times. Grip tape does not provide nearly enough gription. I think you nailed it!